A10 won't start.

[Black Sheep]

Not forgetting the light percussive action once the pinion is heated up and there is tension on the puller.

[Swarfcut]

 I'd also add some choice verbal abuse as to the parentage of the little devil.....

  Puller looks a good design but the steel channel may prove too soft and an angle iron version to bring the arms  even closer is a better bet. Protecting that crank thread is essential, putting the locknut on means a fair chance of re-aligning the thread easily if they suffer some distortion.

 Swarfy.

[Ewen]

Ha ha. Cheers Groily. I think I'll track down or make a brass cold chisel to give the pinion a bit of a tap.....see if it rotates at all before I try the pull.

[Ewen]

Thanks Swarfy. I will put the nut on etc.

[RichardL]

Nice drawing of the setup.

Hmmm? I thought you were going to put a big nut inside the box that would jam against the sides and act as the pulling mechanism. Maybe a penny between the puller bolt and crank end would serve as Chaterlea's "thick" piece of copper.

Richard L

[sean]

Here is the tool I am making. Just have to weld a piece of 10mm x 10mm on to each side for the puller legs (a decent one) to hook on and take a bit more metal off so that it will slide into the pinion grooves.
Do you think I should heat the pinion first.

Don’t use heat until you have pressure on the puller and a good tap on the end of the puller

[Ewen]

I don't see how a nut inside the box would work as a puller RichardL.
When the box is bolted in place  Sean it can be rotated so that would make it easier to heat the pinion right around but what about the box getting hot... don't want to soften it at all... it is only mild steel. See latest pic with a BORROWED pinion.

[Ewen]

I mean the crank can rotate with the box in place.

[Ewen]

You would have to cut the nut RichardL.... this box SLIDES on.

[RDfella]

Nice bit or work there, Ewen. That puller's stiffer and more promising than the last one. But do try a brass drift (any bar of alloy / brass / copper will do) to see if that pinion will rotate  - preferably clockwise - before applying the puller. I'd be really surprised if that didn't make a noticeable difference

[RichardL]

I don't see how a nut inside the box would work as a puller RichardL.

Ewen,

Pardon the funky drawing, but this looks to me like it would work, sorta. I could easily be wrong or missing something, It wouldn't be the 43rd time.

Richard L.

[Ewen]

Have now decided the make the box into a puller as well. Sorry Richard L I can't understand your idea at the moment will have a have another look. You  know that the crankshaft comes right through the box don't you?

[RichardL]

Ewen,

I think you've basically done the same thing, but with the nut on the outside. Whatever works. We're all anxious to see you do a victory dance  around the defeated pinion.

Richard L.

[Ewen]

Man I'm hoping. If I'd made it out of 50mm x 35mm box section instead of 35 x 35 I could have done what  you are suggesting Richard or my way with the nut welded on the outside but I wouldn't have had to cut a slot to clear the crankshaft..... just a hole would have done.... actually a better idea.

[RichardL]

Ah, OK, I see what I missed. Thanks for setting me straight. I didn't have a naked crank (that sounds bad) to remind me of the needed clearance for the end of the shaft. (Uuh, Richard, you could have looked at a picture.  )

Richard L.