Author Topic: Lathe for restoration  (Read 984 times)

Offline Minto

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Lathe for restoration
« on: 20.08. 2021 09:41 »
Just seen this on eBay... Too big for my garage but a fun restoration project. Not sure the price is right.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/metal-turning-lathe-/334119113166?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635

Jase
52 A10 plunger
Aprilia RSVR

Online groily

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Re: Lathe for restoration
« Reply #1 on: 20.08. 2021 10:04 »
Need to buy another one to make some of the the bits to fix it Jase!
Can't beat Huddersfield tho' - my maternal-side family all came from there, when it was a centre of engineering and all things to do with the old industries.
Bill

Online Rex

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Re: Lathe for restoration
« Reply #2 on: 20.08. 2021 10:05 »
Regarding the price, I'm guessing the seller just wants rid of it for whatever he can get.
Nice old lathe, shame it wasn't stored in better conditions though.

Online Triton Thrasher

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Re: Lathe for restoration
« Reply #3 on: 20.08. 2021 11:56 »
Regarding the price, I'm guessing the seller just wants rid of it for whatever he can get.
Nice old lathe, shame it wasn't stored in better conditions though.

Offering anything for free attracts nutters.  Things go better if you put a very low price on instead.

Online muskrat

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Re: Lathe for restoration
« Reply #4 on: 20.08. 2021 13:35 »
If it was just around the corner I'd grab it.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Online RichardL

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Re: Lathe for restoration
« Reply #5 on: 20.08. 2021 13:42 »
I can see possibilities here, but very conditional:

1. Barn-sized shed.
2. Own a fork lift.
3. Own or willing to rent a big truck.
4. Rent a generator to hook up at the viewing.
5. Unlimited time to tinker.
6. No immediate need for a lathe.
7. (For some) Show evidence of a tax return with the "Single" box checked.

Richard L.


Offline KiwiGF

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Re: Lathe for restoration
« Reply #6 on: 20.08. 2021 21:57 »
I just spent more than 25 quid on my old pre war 9” Southbend  *eek*.

After 21 years of old lathe ownership I finally got around getting a new tool post after the original “lantern” type broke when I was trying to machine a valve guide removal tool (for my old MF135 tractor).

I bought the “AXA” post (ex China) from “Banggood” it was $200 ish (100 quid) for the post, 3 holders, and 7 carbide insert tools, delivered. It might be cheaper on Aliexpress.

After just one test cut with new set up I realised I have been missing out on the later tech  *problem* and the “upgrade” would enable me to take on more difficult jobs.

My level of skill means I can make spacers and washers ok, and just about cut imperial threads (badly). I think I once managed to re-machine a bearing housing to “001 but accuracy is not my forte, maybe that will change now, but probably not  *sad*

Sorry I don’t mean to change the forum into a “home machinest one” but I thought my experience might help others thinking of making the jump from HSS to carbide.


New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash  (1st finished project)
1949 B31 rigid “400cc”  (2nd finished project)
1968 B44 Victor Special (3rd finished project)
2001 GL1800 Goldwing, well, the wife likes it
2009 KTM 990 Adventure, cos it’s 100% nuts

ironhead

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Re: Lathe for restoration
« Reply #7 on: 20.08. 2021 22:29 »
If it was just around the corner I'd grab it.
Cheers

Yep. So would I

Online RDfella

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Re: Lathe for restoration
« Reply #8 on: 21.08. 2021 12:54 »
Not keen on those indexable insert tools after I wrecked a couple when putting a heavy cut on. Almost exclusively use brazed carbide tools now. As for toolposts, my Holbrook came with its original ratcheting toolpost. Great, but meant every time one changed a tool there was several minutes spent shimming it to correct height. I'd been looking for a QC toolpost for years (as the tools, once height is initially set with adjustment screw, thereafter just drop into place at correct height). What put me off doing so was the price - around £500 - £600 for a T3 kit. However, recently came across a firm supplying at half the price, so finally conceded. Had to modify the compound to fit it, but only took a couple of hours. Yep, no doubt made in China, but it'll last me out as these days I'm no longer running my workshop professionally 6 or 7 days a week. I only do my own repairs & modifications now.
'49 B31, '49 M21, '53 DOT, '58 Flash, '62 Flash special, '00 Firestorm, Weslake sprint bike.

Offline KiwiGF

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Re: Lathe for restoration
« Reply #9 on: 21.08. 2021 21:41 »
Not keen on those indexable insert tools after I wrecked a couple when putting a heavy cut on. Almost exclusively use brazed carbide tools now. As for toolposts, my Holbrook came with its original ratcheting toolpost. Great, but meant every time one changed a tool there was several minutes spent shimming it to correct height. I'd been looking for a QC toolpost for years (as the tools, once height is initially set with adjustment screw, thereafter just drop into place at correct height). What put me off doing so was the price - around £500 - £600 for a T3 kit. However, recently came across a firm supplying at half the price, so finally conceded. Had to modify the compound to fit it, but only took a couple of hours. Yep, no doubt made in China, but it'll last me out as these days I'm no longer running my workshop professionally 6 or 7 days a week. I only do my own repairs & modifications now.

Yep I broke the insert cut off tool bit but and bent it’s holder on my second use, that tool is not worth buying but was just one of the 7 holders supplied and I bought a more specialised cut off holder anyway.

What’s puzzling me at the moment is the boring bar and internal threading tool bit holders, they are round but have flats on them, I guess to aid in lining them up in the post, but those flats are some 20-30 deg not parallel with the insert, so the cutting point is below the chuck centre line when the holding screws are on the flat part, and I would have expected the insert to be held dead flat eg horizontal?

It’s actually not possible to get the insert held at horizontal as the holding screws then “slide” off the corner of the flat, it would be ok if the flat was further around and the screws could go on a round part.

New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash  (1st finished project)
1949 B31 rigid “400cc”  (2nd finished project)
1968 B44 Victor Special (3rd finished project)
2001 GL1800 Goldwing, well, the wife likes it
2009 KTM 990 Adventure, cos it’s 100% nuts

ironhead

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Re: Lathe for restoration
« Reply #10 on: 21.08. 2021 22:32 »


Yep I broke the insert cut off tool bit but and bent it’s holder on my second use, that tool is not worth buying but was just one of the 7 holders supplied and I bought a more specialised cut off holder anyway.

What’s puzzling me at the moment is the boring bar and internal threading tool bit holders, they are round but have flats on them, I guess to aid in lining them up in the post, but those flats are some 20-30 deg not parallel with the insert, so the cutting point is below the chuck centre line when the holding screws are on the flat part, and I would have expected the insert to be held dead flat eg horizontal?

It’s actually not possible to get the insert held at horizontal as the holding screws then “slide” off the corner of the flat, it would be ok if the flat was further around and the screws could go on a round part.
[/quote]


 You can raise the cutting edge to the centerline with your adjustable q/c tool post.

Offline KiwiGF

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Re: Lathe for restoration
« Reply #11 on: 22.08. 2021 00:41 »


 You can raise the cutting edge to the centerline with your adjustable q/c tool post.
[/quote]

Good point, is it “correct” to have the insert “twisted” downwards then? So the flats and insert are designed on purpose not to be parallel with each other? I thought that MIGHT be the case so I have not asked the supplier if the holders are duff or not.
New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash  (1st finished project)
1949 B31 rigid “400cc”  (2nd finished project)
1968 B44 Victor Special (3rd finished project)
2001 GL1800 Goldwing, well, the wife likes it
2009 KTM 990 Adventure, cos it’s 100% nuts

Online Rex

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Re: Lathe for restoration
« Reply #12 on: 22.08. 2021 08:11 »
Errrr....it's not "Chinese quality tool" is it?
I've found much of the Taiwan/Indian/Chinese tooling to be virtually unusable it's so bad.

Offline BagONails

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Re: Lathe for restoration
« Reply #13 on: 22.08. 2021 10:46 »


 You can raise the cutting edge to the centerline with your adjustable q/c tool post.

Good point, is it “correct” to have the insert “twisted” downwards then? So the flats and insert are designed on purpose not to be parallel with each other? I thought that MIGHT be the case so I have not asked the supplier if the holders are duff or not.
[/quote]

Depends on the geometry of the insert and the holder. If they were supplied as a set I would expect them to work OK together. Just make sure you set the cutting tip of the insert on centre height by winding the knurled nut up or down. Then lock it at your chosen height. You can now undo the cam lock and swap the tool holder over for something different and back again and you are instantly back on centre height again. No doubt you will soon be buying additional tool holders or making your own  ;) so you can have all your favourites set up ready to go.

Errrr....it's not "Chinese quality tool" is it?
I've found much of the Taiwan/Indian/Chinese tooling to be virtually unusable it's so bad.

There is undoubtedly a lot of rubbish out there but also a lot of reasonably good stuff at very cheap prices, ideal for the home user. We bought a pack of 10 Sumitomo quality branded turning inserts the other day at Uni for turning hardened steel and paid $300 (150 GBP)with only two corners on an insert! Its a question of productivity and having the right tool for the job. I've found Taiwanese stuff over the past 30 years has been really good but might be dropping off a bit these days. Chinese stuff is a lottery and varies widely, just depends who you are buying from. Mostly it is all rip off copies of japanese/UK/US/Aus designed gear. at about 1/5th of the price. No idea about Indian tooling, not seen it much here as yet.
Ian
59 GF A10
67 Spitfire under resto
2013 kwaka W800 Desert Sled (ex write off)

Nil Desperandum

Offline KiwiGF

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Re: Lathe for restoration
« Reply #14 on: 22.08. 2021 21:37 »
Hi Ian, I have had another look at the boring bar, and internal threading bar and I think they are deliberately “twisted” in order to get a clearance on the bottom side of the insert, I suspect this MIGHT because they utilise external inserts, which don’t have the correct clearance for internal machining.

Either way your advice to line them up with the contact point at centre height has prevented me making a mistake, and I think these 2 tools will work.

I used the cut off tool holder yesterday with a standard HSS cut off blade and that worked fine so I will probably junk the 12mm carbide tool holder (1of the 7 12mm tool holders in the set).

To my surprise I managed to make some clutch spring nuts yesterday for my B44, something I never thought I would be able to manage that due to the difficulty in using the lathe to machine a 1/4” CEI internal thread, but the extra stiffness of the new AXA tool post made this possible. I used an angle grinder and dremel to make a limited use HSS internal threading tool. Suppliers are closed here due to covid lock down so this was the only way I could get the B44 roadworthy in time for a planned trip (lockdown permitting).

It took me an hour to make each nut so I ordered up a bunch of CEI taps and dies from Tracy tools UK, so I don’t have to machine a tiny internal thread like that again!
New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash  (1st finished project)
1949 B31 rigid “400cc”  (2nd finished project)
1968 B44 Victor Special (3rd finished project)
2001 GL1800 Goldwing, well, the wife likes it
2009 KTM 990 Adventure, cos it’s 100% nuts