A10 gear box gaskets or gasket maker?

[JohnnyM]

Thanks chums,  good worldly advice!!!  Swarfy…the moving parts are really coated in ‘hard, baked on oil’.  God knows what it once was.  But good thought dissolving it.   Musky, the point taken on the clearances.  My initial look at box one is that the gear selector return springs are both broken into bits…and stuck there! 

In don’t think this box has been apart in many many years.  The second box is waiting its turn. 

Thank you both and the forum for assisting this apprentice along the path a way!!! 
Johnny. 

[JohnnyM]

The gearbox all cleaned up and ready for  build up.  I will try dry fits without gasket/s and see what clearance differences become problematic.  Will report back! 
Johnny

[Greybeard]

So this is a Plunger box? I had a problem with mine which you should be able to find on the forum. Cutting a long story short, I had to assemble without the inner gasket to get reliable gear changes.

[JohnnyM]

Hi Neil,  This is the first A7/A10 box I have overhauled! It was in a poor state but complete.  I couldn’t actually believe there were no gaskets (even the inspection cover!!).   The ‘oil’ inside was solid. Reminded me of old hypo oil! 

It appears that the gear selection claw has a pretty tight tolerance and that a gasket can screw this up…as you have found. 

As I say I’ll play with this and see what different scenarios work best. 

Anybody got an old gear lever kicking about? 
Johnny

[Swarfcut]

 Which box is that? The solid coated one? In which case that effort deserves an accolade. Blind layshaft bush and layshaft are prone to wear, it's choose a better layshaft or have existing shaft cleaned up and custom undersize bush made. Dunno if you have been lucky here. Plenty on the Forum to guide re assembly.

 Sleeve gear bushes also wear, but this is not so critical, new ones too tight on the shaft and they will seize. Sleeve gear lubrication is poor, but drips from the mainshaft mean some oil is getting there.

 Throw away that worn sprocket, get a new one with an extra tooth or two for a more relaxed ride and a slightly inaccurate speedo.  Heat up the castings, bushes and bearings in the freezer. Clear out the blind holes, look for bent through studs. All threads into alloy are Whitworth, except for the clutch lever ball adjuster cover.

 Swarfy.

[JohnnyM]

Thanks again for this great advice and comments!!  This was completely solid a black as a black thing!! 
I have mic’d bit’s and bobs and tolerances look good. Will be replacing the bearings as it’s silly not to.  The only new parts are the great selector return. Both were broken and compressed. 

I won’t be diving into this anytime soon as other restorations are bubbling up!  So lots of time to read more of this fab forum! 
Johnny

[JohnnyM]

Hi Swarfy and Greybeard,   Well the gearbox is all built up. After many dry fits - with shims taking place of gaskets in the interim. I went from no shims to thicker shims and everything in between.  It was a balance of getting the main shaft/drive sprocket moving and getting the gear selector to catch.
I found that once the covers were on the sprocket was jammed. if I freed up the final drive then the gear selector missed. So with many measurements I found a compromise and cut gasket thickness to suit. 
I can get all four gears easily and the final drive is moving freely.

Thanks for all your assistance!!   

[Joolstacho]

Johnny I think I have a spare gear lever somewhere. Trouble is I'm in Oz and you're not!
Let me know if you want it (PM me)
Jools

[JohnnyM]

Hi Jools,
I have one thanks…I use it as a tool to help with checking the gear selection! 
Also have a spare kick start lever for the same reason- both ‘tools’ 😊

Thank you so much though for this offer!!!
Johnny