Author Topic: '48 LS Engine rebuild  (Read 6642 times)

Offline fffcycles

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #15 on: 21.04. 2021 01:32 »
I have quite a few other BSA cranks, amongst others, and never seen anything like this before. Everything I learned in my electro-mechanical career says there must be an even supply of oil to maintain the oil dam and film effect for good bearing performance.
Could’ve someone’s thoughts on balancing flow on this but we will see.
Frank
Frank P Kamloops BC
1948 A7 Long Stroke, a collection of BSA D1/B44/B50/A65 from the 50's thru 70's, Ariels/Nortons/Triumphs and a smattering of Japanese

Offline fido

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #16 on: 22.04. 2021 12:55 »
How were the little ends? One of mine is a bit stiff so I will need to find someone with a reamer. There are scuff marks on the piston but I think they will polish out. I previously had a short stroke A7 and the thing that stuck me  with the long stroke is the much smaller cam followers. They seem to work OK though as the cam and followers are in good condition. I had to renew the followers on the short stroke as they were well worn on the contact faces with the cam.

Offline chaterlea25

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #17 on: 22.04. 2021 13:42 »
Hi,
A Monday morning or Friday evening job??
If it was intentional to not have the hole there they would not have ground the relief in the journal...
A few years ago I saw sorting out a C15T and found the breather hole in the cam bush/ timing case had never been drilled
No wonder I ***** oil out every joint on the engine

John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline fffcycles

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #18 on: 22.04. 2021 15:46 »
Small ends are fine and thus should go together without any more drama, I hope.
Yeah, football was on the telly and Clive wanted to get home on time! Fixed now and just have to drop in and pick it up.
Frank
Frank P Kamloops BC
1948 A7 Long Stroke, a collection of BSA D1/B44/B50/A65 from the 50's thru 70's, Ariels/Nortons/Triumphs and a smattering of Japanese

Offline fffcycles

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #19 on: 02.05. 2021 14:59 »
Another few days of work and I now have the crankcase tightened up but as I got the bolts done up it is now very hard to rotate the crank. Oh well, guess I take it apart pull the bearing and take the .010” spacer out then reassemble again.
First time doing this particular style of engine but not unexpected.
Meanwhile good weather and the Norton have kept a smile on my face.
Frank
Frank P Kamloops BC
1948 A7 Long Stroke, a collection of BSA D1/B44/B50/A65 from the 50's thru 70's, Ariels/Nortons/Triumphs and a smattering of Japanese

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #20 on: 02.05. 2021 17:28 »
 Fit the drive sleeve and retaining nut. Tighten down hard with a peg spanner.  This will settle the ball race against the crank. May save dismantling if the race moves towards the crank.

 Swarfy.

Offline fffcycles

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #21 on: 03.05. 2021 15:42 »
Good advice, did not give me much, so crank moved but with the help of a strap wrench. Not the worst job and I have the tools so half an hour I have it apart then it is just chilling and heating to get everything back in place.
The bushing thrust face is only showing a rub mark in one small area so might just pop that out and check if it is machined correctly as this is one of the plain bronze types and is a little thicker at 0.135” compared with 0.125” for the steel sleeve ones I have as well. That would make a world of difference taking that down as an alternative to taking the bearing off again.
Frank
Frank P Kamloops BC
1948 A7 Long Stroke, a collection of BSA D1/B44/B50/A65 from the 50's thru 70's, Ariels/Nortons/Triumphs and a smattering of Japanese

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #22 on: 15.07. 2021 08:41 »
 To add a little more to comments about the crank oil holes.

 Found a Longstroke Crank, split rod type, nicely greased up and with no major scoring or damage to the journals.

 Big end journals measure 1.45". Looks to be 10 Thou down, so should shine up OK.

 Timing side big end journal has the two ground out slots for the oil hole, but as pictured above, only one hole drilled. So, to drill or not?

 Swarfy.

Offline fffcycles

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #23 on: 17.01. 2022 02:14 »
Hello Swarfcut, after a good while recovering from illness and surgery I am back up and at it again. Have the transmission and crankcase installed and working on the clutch and timing side in progress. Having a problem with clutch adjustment as I have it all assembled, operating the clutch lifts the plates fine but there is a terrible groan from the gearbox as I operate the lever. New plates and well lubricated cable, pushrod and plunger. Guess I will keep looking as this is taking a lot of effort to operate the lever.

I have drilled out the hole on my crank as I could not find anything more on this anywhere, curious that you have one with a single hole drilled but I am going to try this one out and keep a close eye on oil pressure and performance once I have it running.
Frank P Kamloops BC
1948 A7 Long Stroke, a collection of BSA D1/B44/B50/A65 from the 50's thru 70's, Ariels/Nortons/Triumphs and a smattering of Japanese

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #24 on: 17.01. 2022 09:47 »
  Clutch action should not be a gorilla fist requirement. Rigid/Plunger clutch is a sound design, but a few things to check.

    The split collar 67 3251 on the mainshaft supports the thrust washer, which to my mind hangs on by its fingernails, the collar groove in the shaft is minimal, even on new shafts. Failure of the split collar or its absence lets the thrust washer run against the oilseal rivets.

 Aftermarket clutch rollers can be oversize lengthwise, this will lock up the basket and centre when the mainshaft clutch nut is tightened.

 First plain plate into the basket is a thick one to support the spring load against the other plates.

 All plates should slide easily in their respective positions, and not all aftermarket plates are made equal. Here a wider manufacturing tolerance is perhaps better. With a stiff action and a groan I'd expect witness marks here and there where components are binding.

 Noise from the rotating gearbox with the clutch lever pulled is is likely to be a bad ballrace in the inner gearbox cover, as this is loaded axially  as the pushrod is trying to push the clutch and mainshaft towards the driveside.

 The main failing with the design is that the basket is poorly supported laterally and even with new components a degree of shake on the chainwheel is expected. They all do that, Sir....

  Longstroke assembly of timing covers, magneto, dynamo and front engine plates are a bit of a jigsaw. Assembling the gearbox/engine as a bare unit into the frame is easier, otherwise it's a step forward and three steps back. Trust me.

 Swarfy.

Offline fffcycles

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #25 on: 17.01. 2022 16:38 »
Hello Swarfcut,
All good info, the gearbox and crankcase are in the frame and up on the lift, which does make things easier.
Yes, I pulled all the plates and remeasured the ears on the plates which showed quite a bit of variation in machining so I passed a file over some that had witness marks of dragging. With that done and the cable lubed a third time it is now working quite reasonably but I think I will order a new cable as that is where the noise is coming from. With the cable off and activating the clutch with the gearbox lever it is easy and silent.
The puzzle of the timing side is made worse by the plethora of lock washers that are used but I have the inner done now.
It will get easier I am sure.
Frank
Frank P Kamloops BC
1948 A7 Long Stroke, a collection of BSA D1/B44/B50/A65 from the 50's thru 70's, Ariels/Nortons/Triumphs and a smattering of Japanese

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #26 on: 09.02. 2022 17:19 »
Well, I placed the rear mudguard along with all the bolts and spacers quite a while back but now it was time to fit the chain, chain guard and ensure alignment. Rear mudguard is too far to the primary side so does not allow the chain guard to fit properly by half an inch so I will have to unbolt, select new spacers re-align mudguard supports and hope it all comes into line somehow. Hah, such fun and it all looked so good before trying to get the chain guard in there
Frank
Frank P Kamloops BC
1948 A7 Long Stroke, a collection of BSA D1/B44/B50/A65 from the 50's thru 70's, Ariels/Nortons/Triumphs and a smattering of Japanese

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #27 on: 03.03. 2022 17:45 »
Just a quick question on pistons for my A7 LS. Putting in new rings and readying barrel to install but now I notice right hand piston is Hepolite 10030 standard, good but it will not fit in the LH barrel which has a BSA piston 67-196 which is a little loose in the RH but fine in the LH. Question is I do not find anywhere a reference to the 67-196 (yes tried 67-0196) anywhere ! Does someone here have an indication of what this is ? I have a mutitude of parts manuals and BSA piston reference charts going way back but nothing on this particular number. It is going together pretty good although the new Wellworthy oil rings have a gap of 24 thou on them straight out of the box so a bit big but I will figure that out with the supplier.
Frank
Frank P Kamloops BC
1948 A7 Long Stroke, a collection of BSA D1/B44/B50/A65 from the 50's thru 70's, Ariels/Nortons/Triumphs and a smattering of Japanese

Online JulianS

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #28 on: 03.03. 2022 17:56 »
See the 1950 parts book page 238 (available on this forum)

The number is for bare piston 6.6:1 comp.

Offline fffcycles

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Re: '48 LS Engine rebuild
« Reply #29 on: 03.03. 2022 18:18 »
Thanks, great addition to my information. It's going back together today then timing and head on. Be done in time for riding this summer, can't wait.
Frank
Frank P Kamloops BC
1948 A7 Long Stroke, a collection of BSA D1/B44/B50/A65 from the 50's thru 70's, Ariels/Nortons/Triumphs and a smattering of Japanese