wheels

[tomkilde]

The wheel rims on my A10 restoration project are beyond repair.  There is no chrome left on the front rim, and the back rim is the wrong size altogether.  I know the correct size is WM2 x 19 with 40 holes, and I see many available on the internet both new and used.  But the part numbers for the rims, when given, are all over the map.  Is that important?  Could there be significant differences that would make it impossible for me to lace my existing drums to a particular WM2 x 19 x 40 rim?  Or could any one of them be made to work?  The bike appears to be a bit of a Frankenstein monster - to the best of my knowledge the frame is from 1954, the engine is from 1958, and the forks and tank are from the early 60's.  Hard to say what the "correct" part number for the rims would be based on the year.

[JulianS]

The rim needs to go with year of hubs so that the dimples and piercings are compatible with hubs. Buy the wrong ones and you waste your money.

[chaterlea25]

Hi
The hubs are the late type full width as used 60-62
Go to a wheel builder to get the correct rims and spokes
Ebay sellers will flog you any old shite saying its correct 

John

[tomkilde]

Thanks!  I had hoped I could save a little money using eBay, but it seems very risky given all the variables...

[RichardL]

Tom,

You may already know this stuff, but in case you don't, here it is. If you want to stay close to original in new rims, you probably need to contact Central Wheel Components ( https://www.central-wheel.co.uk/ )  in Birmingham and expect a hefty shipping cost (but reasonable rim cost). New spokes could be had from them or from Buchanan's in Azusa, CA ( http://www.buchananspokes.com/ ). Buchanan's also makes rims, but I didn't see any on their website that were chromed steel for our bikes. They make and market rims mostly in aluminum. Their spokes are top quality, if it happens to save on the shipping.

Richard L.

[KiwiGF]

The wheel rims on my A10 restoration project are beyond repair.  There is no chrome left on the front rim, and the back rim is the wrong size altogether.  I know the correct size is WM2 x 19 with 40 holes, and I see many available on the internet both new and used.  But the part numbers for the rims, when given, are all over the map.  Is that important?  Could there be significant differences that would make it impossible for me to lace my existing drums to a particular WM2 x 19 x 40 rim?  Or could any one of them be made to work?  The bike appears to be a bit of a Frankenstein monster - to the best of my knowledge the frame is from 1954, the engine is from 1958, and the forks and tank are from the early 60's.  Hard to say what the "correct" part number for the rims would be based on the year.

As per other posts you have the hubs identified so can order rims, you may find it worth getting them from draganfly, I have bought stainless and chrome rims from Draganfly (actually cwc brand stainless) and shipped them to nz and shipping cost was not too bad. I also bought the applicable spokes from them and built the wheels myself to save cost, not something had done before but its not too hard (just make sure you have good “before” pics so you get the spoke interlacing correct, and also measure the offset).

[Rex]

Not wishing to dis Draganfly, but I was reading on another forum where someone with a particular year of B31 (a bike which had a variety of hubs over the years) was sent a rim for his bike and it wasn't suitable (dimple piercing angle IIRC) but Draganfly insisted it was for a B31 therefore it would be suitable.
Problem is that Drags are sellers of parts for BSAs and clearly don't know the nuances of B31 rims over the years.

[Black Sheep]

I have used the Devon Rim Company. Excellent stainless rims and spokes, choice of finish available.
https://www.devonrimcompany.com/

[jhg1958]

I will be in the same situation soon with badly corroded rims on my 1961 Golden Flash, so new ones will be needed soon. One thing that is important before you separate the hubs from the rim is to measure the offset (alignment with the hub). This aspect of wheel building is enough to make me run to a professiona,l since alignment of the wheels has to be correct if you are to go around corners nicely.

There used to be a wheel builder in Chapel-en-le-Frith, Derbyshire.  I have lost his details, I don't suppose anyone have them?  I would be most grateful as Chapel is only a few miles away from me.

Also any gems of wisdom on the rims?  I cannot see me going back to chrome.  Stainless Steel seems the obvious choice but can you get aluminium ones that look right?  Also I know aluminium is lighter than steel, but is this significant on a GF that is hardly lightweight anyway?

John

[Greybeard]

I had my wheels built with stainless rims and spokes by this friendly chap. That was a few years ago. I hope he is still trading.
Black Cat Wheels
Wolverhampton
07792 188978

[terryg]

Lacing wheels and ensuring the correct offset is not as difficult as I imagined it to be. Search the forum, perhaps you have already, as I’m sure I have read a number of posts on the subject.
The part I found most irritating was coping with the welded joint on the rim.

[RichardL]

A Cautionary Tale

On my first, and only, attempt to lace my own wheels, I was quite sure I had done a very good job until I took a closer look. In getting each spoke to have the same nice "ting," I had overtightened the spokes to the extent of deforming the crinkles on my freshly chromed QD hub. Bought and had chromed a replacement hub, then, sent the job to someone with experience.  Figured another round of hub and chrome much more expensive than lacing and shipping, despite my hard-learned experience with the job. Now, when someone asks, "Did you restore it yourself?" I answer, "everything but machine shop, paint and wheel lacing."

Richard L.

[Superflash]

When lacing my wheels I spent a few quid on fleabay and bought a wheel lacing rig and a spoke torque wrench. Made the job a whole lot easier. The rig allowed me to get the trueing and offset almost bang on, and the torque wrench is preset to 4 ftlbs so no chance of pulling things beyond where they should be. The secret I found was to go in small increments. Must have gone round at least 15 times on each side just nipping each spoke a tad until the wrench went click. Cheers

[Oldtoys]

Hello
I am preparing my hubs (A10 plunger) to be laced, with new everything, so dismantling the complete internal.
Rear wheel, except dust cover flange I drilled, was no ploblem. L/H stamped on rings, all ok
On front wheel, another story
I am blocked by one bearing ring opposite to the half drum brake, and begin to damage the brass ring. Oil, heat, no way to make it move
My doubt push me to ask if both are L/H? In fact except the gear with a clip, they are all L/H isn't?
I have removed of course the locking pins.
Thanks in advance

[tomkilde]

I'm getting ready to re-assemble my wheels with new chrome rims, stainless steel spokes and sealed bearings.  The hubs have been media blasted and painted.   The new bearings drop in easily, but I'm having trouble with the "abutment collar" in the rear wheel (part no. 42-6329).  It's just a little too big to fit into its seat on the sprocket side of the hub.  Is there some trick to installing it?  Is this not where it's supposed to go?  I'm pretty sure this is where it was when I disassembled the wheel, although the axle spacer tube (part no. 42-6323) was missing and I had to source a new one.