Gear selector pin removal

[Alex kettle]

Who can enlighten me on how to remove this gear selector pin. I noticed it is threaded on the inside, have given it a gentle tap but is easier to ask here than damage something. I’ve looked at the scans but hasn’t helped me work it out. I’m sure a dozen of you know.
Thanks in advance
Alex

[Swarfcut]

 Alex.  Service sheet 311 says the thread is 1/4 CEI, the same nut end thread as oil pump studs, rocker cover studs and sump studs. Other ends of these into alloy are 1/4 Whit. Warm the casting (hot air gun) and use a suitable 1/4 CEI bolt or stud and nut to draw it out.

 Swarfy.

[Alex kettle]

Cheers swarfy. I googled that service sheet number and was able to find it. So just to be clear, if I warm the case and screw in a 1/4 cei bolt and keep winding it will self extract?

[Swarfcut]

 No, you need to pull on the screwed in bolt.  The only way it would self extract is if the pin is threaded all the way through, your picture shows it isn't.  Better to use spacing washers etc, with a draw bolt or draw nut on a stud. Pull it with a slide hammer or similar if you have one. With the casting warm it should come out easily, wear ridges may impair movement so proceed with care.

 Swarfy.
 

[Alex kettle]

I was thinking a slide hammer after reading the first line of your reply. I’ll try that approach. Thanks for clarifying Swarfy, id hate to butcher things and cause damage. The quality and design of these i find truly beautiful. It’s testament to while there still functioning after all these years.
I’ll reply with my results when I give it a go later.
Thanks again
Alex

[Alex kettle]

Et voilà. Thanks again swarfy. Saved me struggling.

[Swarfcut]

Thanks for the accolade. That was easy.

[Alex kettle]

Hopefully one day I will have the privilege of passing on the knowledge 

[RichardL]

Speaking of the shifting quadrant pivot pin, can anyone say if it is OK for the pin to pivot in the inner cover rather than the quadrant pivoting on the pin? My $100 swap-meet gearbox was beautiful inside, except, it must have been sitting for 30 years when I bought it several years ago and the oil had basically turned to asphalt. Got it out of everywhere except the shifting quadrant. Pin pivots fine in the casting but not the quadrant on the pin.  I'm dragging my feet on pressing out the bushing to pull the pin.

Richard L.

[orabanda]

Richard,
Try heating the casing around the pin; then let it cool. Do this several times, then heat once more and try jacking out with a 1/4" BSC bolt.
Richard Too

[Swarfcut]

   From a geometric perspective the axis of rotation will be the same and the selector mechanism will work. Alas the bearing surfaces are now the soft alloy casing and the harder pin. Short term, well. OK, but for serious use better to warm things up and extract the parts. Loctite the pin to the alloy on reassembly as an aid to keeping it fixed in place, assuming that the pin location is not too worn and the casting can be retained for further use.

 Swarfy.

[berger]

taking into account how far it all moves a nice shiny hardened pin moving in the large area that it does shouldn't hurt anything. didn't the japanese have camshafts revving away in bare ally heads for thousands of miles

[Bsareg]

True, and on some Enfields the ally conrod rode directly on the big end journal, but they were force fed oil.

[RichardL]

True, and on some Enfields the ally conrod rode directly on the big end journal, but they were force fed oil.

...as do Thunder Engineering billet rods with no force feeding (noting that the inner gearbox cover ain't no billet).

Richard L.

[berger]

Richard it's not doing much work, my pin pivots in the ally and no problem. it always has.