Should I buy A10, not run for 38 years

[Peter Burgess]

Hi, I'm not a great engineer & I've never done an engine re build, but I have done a top end.
I've been offered an A10 which started spewing oil from it's breather 38 years ago. It was put in the garage & not started since!
Apparently the engine turns over & it had been re built perhaps 5000 miles before the oil spewing started.
The rims & spokes have rusted badly, but it's very original.
I think the owner would like a straight swap with my Triumph 3TA in good running order.
Will the A10 have to be stripped, or might I get away with flushing the oil, fitting an external oil filter & kicking it over 100 times to get the oil circulating?
Should I do the swap, or keep my reliable, slow 3TA?
Advice would be appreciated.
Is the oil spewing likely to be a stuck oil pressure relief valve ball & spring issue, an easy fix? Or major problem?
I don't want to spend £1000+ on the A10.
Thanks for constructive advice.
Peter

[muskrat]

G'day Peter  .
I'm not trying to scare you off but the rims, spokes and tyres will take a chunk of that money.
There's a few problems that will cause oil to come out the breather. Most are easy fixes but may take time to track down. Wet sumping is the most common.
Bringing any bike back to life after such a long coma will need at least afull service. Not knowing how far they went with the rebuild is another 
But the A10 would be a much better performer than the 3TA. Depends on how much you love it .
 Just looking at the $$ for a good 3TA is about 4000 gbp. An A10 in similar condition is around 5 to 6000 gbp. So in value it's about right.
You don't say what year and model the A10 is.
Cheers

[berger]

honest answer from me NO[quote
I don't want to spend £1000+ on the A10. stood all that time the engine will need taking down and the sludge cleaned out of the crank. also you might find heavy corrosion on the valve seats that have been left to moisture getting in after all those years. you could open a can of worms or be lucky to find everything within BSA tolerance , I very much doubt that, once down you might find excessive bore wear and valve guide wear.  new wheels and spokes eats into your budget and when you start rebuilding the engine if work needs doing you will wish you kept your slow? 3ta. just my opinion others may think different

[RichardL]

I'm with Muskrat and Berger. 1000 GBP isn't close. There is no "getting away with" anything. It must come all the way apart. Forget about the rebuild 5000 miles before sitting. That's gone.  If you decide to do it because you love the challenge, what you end up with, really, is a common A10 versus your unusual Triumph. If you have the need for speed, there are a lot of new and fast retro bikes on the market.

Richard L.

[Swarfcut]

Hi Pete. With interest rates at an all time low, if you have the space, get it anyway. Its better than money in the bank. Better still if has title and paperwork. The swap is a bit one sided, the owner needs to use it as part payment towards your Triumph, not simply swap a wreck for a runner. If it all turns out to be a real lemon, lots of folks like a project. Just get it running, as such it is easily saleable.

 These engines are a simple straightforward design, you will have no trouble as and when. Spewing oil means that more oil is going into the engine than being scavenged out, so you can assume the all important pressure side is working. The scavenge failure could be as simple as a jammed ball valve in the scavenge pick up pipe, easily cleared by removing the sump plate and poking the ball....BSA even mention this in the instruction books!

   Wet sumping is a common phenomenon, there may actually be nothing wrong, it was  just left standing. The sump filled, smoke and oil everywhere. Picture the scene, anguish, panic,  So they put it away in the shed and that's where it has been sleeping for the best part of 40 years. Give it a go, it will be great to hear it run again.

 Swarfy

[Black Sheep]

Hmm. I left an A10 in the shed for 17 years and started it and ran it (still running it) - no big strip, just a normal service. Also a Rudge sitting for 50 years. Just a normal service. A Douglas the same if not longer.
You can go into panic mode and break it down to every last nut and bolt or spend a fortune getting the specialists to rebuild and modify the engine but more and more I am of the opinion that if it aint broke, don't fix it until it is.
If it will start and go and sounds ok I would just service it and ride it. 

[metalflake11]

Hmm. I left an A10 in the shed for 17 years and started it and ran it (still running it) - no big strip, just a normal service. Also a Rudge sitting for 50 years. Just a normal service. A Douglas the same if not longer.
You can go into panic mode and break it down to every last nut and bolt or spend a fortune getting the specialists to rebuild and modify the engine but more and more I am of the opinion that if it aint broke, don't fix it until it is.
If it will start and go and sounds ok I would just service it and ride it.

We're all getting old and forgetful, but that's ridiculous!

I started and ran an engine that had been outside under a plastic sheet for ten years many moons ago.

 I'd do as you suggest, if it sounds good carry on, if it sounds bad, stop it and resign yourself to a rebuild.

No doubt I'd do some sort of deal, but I'd rather ride an A10 than anything else ever built so I'm biased and probably quite potty.

[WozzA]

Tell him it's knackered then offer him a couple of Grand & keep both..   

[Billybream]

Left my A10 for 29yrs which was a good runner, but still decided on full engine strip during rebuild, the state of the sludge trap was unbelievable, just solid with sludge, don,t risk it.
These bikes are easy to work on and masses of help available on this forum.

[Rex]

It all depends on whether you feel able or inclined to strip an old engine to see what's what. The cost depends a lot on what you can or can't do yourself and how much the 3TA stands you in at.
A DiY wheel rebuild with stainless stuff will cost the thick end of 500 quid alone, much more for a pro rebuild and that's just a cost you know about. As mentioned above, try and get a cash price for the BSA then you've got the 3TA to ride and the BSA to work on, and when they're both rideable choose (or not!) which one to sell.

[Greybeard]

I had a 3TA, Triumph 21. The A10 is a much better machine.

I would have to strip the engine of a bike that I didn't know had been worked on by someone I trusted. The sludge trap referred to is in the crankshaft, so the engine needs to be taken apart to access it.

My rebuild cost several thousand pounds. I started off wanting to just get the bike going but found that one new part made other parts look so bad I had to carry on spending money. I think the term is known as 'Project Creep'. I'm glad I did a proper job; I'm very proud of my Emily.

[Truckedup]

 Do you really want an A10? Do you have the money to repair what's needed to make it road worthy? Does the bike need to be perfect?
   An old worn looking bike that runs well and safe to use is fine for me, the OP need to decide what he wants...

[Greybeard]

An old worn looking bike that runs well and safe to use is fine for me, the OP need to decide what he wants...

An 'oily rag' bike is fine and currently fashionable, however there are things that need to be checked before you can ride with piece of mind. 

[metalflake11]

An old worn looking bike that runs well and safe to use is fine for me, the OP need to decide what he wants...

An 'oily rag' bike is fine and currently fashionable, however there are things that need to be checked before you can ride with piece of mind. 

[RichardL]

If you decide to do it because you love the challenge, what you end up with, really, is a common A10 versus your unusual Triumph.

Richard L.

Sheesh! Do I have to do everything?

"Richard, how DARE you refer to an A10 as 'common'?!"

Richard L.