Author Topic: RR T2  (Read 2186 times)

Offline Jules

  • Resident Legend
  • *****
  • Join Date: Mar 2011
  • Posts: 501
  • Karma: 0
  • 1956 A10 s/arm Golden Flash
Re: RR T2
« Reply #15 on: 07.06. 2020 02:58 »
Slightly off topic here but couldn't help looking at the cover closely (because of my clutch lever dilemma!) and noticed that the grease nipple used on this cover is the same as mine with concave sides, how do you use a grease gun with this type of nipple, my old gun has to "snap over" the nipple, which is what all the other grease nipples are???? cheers

Offline Swarfcut

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Oct 2018
  • Posts: 2379
  • Karma: 57
Re: RR T2
« Reply #16 on: 07.06. 2020 09:29 »
No mystery.....that was how grease nipples used to be. The gun just has a cone to match the nipple.

 Back in the day, before motor vehicles had maintenance free suspension joints, it was a regular maintenance task to grease these suspension joints frequently. The joints were generally unsealed, no rubber boots and the grease attracted road grit, and along with water, salt spray etc they wore, so only low pressure was required  to grease the joints as the internal clearances opened up. The cone connection was adequate for these simple type of joint.

 Then came progress, non return valve in the nipple, and sealed ball joints, all requiring higher pump pressure. The push on cone was barely adequate, useless in most cases and the clamp on design became the new standard, so all you need is either an early cone type gun to match the nipple or  a modern nipple to fit your gun.

 Regarding the problem with the gearbox cover,  thin wall bushes can be removed by carefully splitting length wise with a small hacksaw, just cutting enough to weaken them to allow them to be collapsed inwards. I would use heat on an alloy casting to aid insertion of any bush. Big pressure and old castings always carries the risk of cracking. Chance the casting was cracked when the bush was inserted, and being non standard, the interference fit would have been more likely by educated guess rather than by calculation.

 Swarfy.

 

Offline Jules

  • Resident Legend
  • *****
  • Join Date: Mar 2011
  • Posts: 501
  • Karma: 0
  • 1956 A10 s/arm Golden Flash
Re: RR T2
« Reply #17 on: 07.06. 2020 11:46 »
Agree, thanks Swarfy, so looks like I'll have to replace that old style nipple with the later snap on type, cheers

Offline Peter in Aus

  • Valued Contributor
  • ****
  • Join Date: Feb 2014
  • Posts: 431
  • Karma: 2
  • South West, West Australia
Re: RR T2
« Reply #18 on: 08.06. 2020 02:04 »
Agree, thanks Swarfy, so looks like I'll have to replace that old style nipple with the later snap on type, cheers

1/4 SAE nipples fit just fine *smile*

Busselton West Australia
49 A7 longstroke
58 A10  SA

Offline manxman

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Jul 2017
  • Posts: 68
  • Karma: 1
Re: RR T2
« Reply #19 on: 09.06. 2020 13:41 »
I finally got around to counting gears.  Counstant mesh 26T, mainshaft sliding 22T, mainshaft sliding 25T, mainshaft  18T.  Layshaft 17T,  layshaft sliding21T, layshaft sliding  18T, layshaft 25T. Gears in order from output end , layshaft runs on needle bearings, mainshaft on caged rollers. Opinions?

Offline manxman

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Jul 2017
  • Posts: 68
  • Karma: 1
Re: RR T2
« Reply #20 on: 09.06. 2020 14:33 »
Another unusual  numbering , on the inner cover 67-3345 cast in it with 42-3083 stamped beside the cast numbers.

Online chaterlea25

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Jun 2009
  • Posts: 4130
  • Karma: 54
Re: RR T2
« Reply #21 on: 09.06. 2020 15:53 »
Hi
Attached chart should help with the ratios fitted
That changed stamping is normal for a needle roller sandwich plate, what about the main case?
Is there a needle roller bearing in the high speed gear "A" ?
There are difference in the engagement dogs and gear widths between standard and RRT2 gears to add to the confusion

John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline manxman

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Jul 2017
  • Posts: 68
  • Karma: 1
Re: RR T2
« Reply #22 on: 09.06. 2020 16:07 »
Main case is 42-3005, outer cover 67-3352

Offline manxman

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Jul 2017
  • Posts: 68
  • Karma: 1
Re: RR T2
« Reply #23 on: 09.06. 2020 16:30 »
The only gears on the table matching mine are the Daytona !!

Online chaterlea25

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Jun 2009
  • Posts: 4130
  • Karma: 54
Re: RR T2
« Reply #24 on: 09.06. 2020 18:12 »
Hi Manxman,
That's  fairly rare *ex* I believe,
Having needle rollers on the layshaft would signify DAY T
It must have had been built from parts or had parts replaced at some time??

A search on the net found this topic on Britbike, One owner of a DAY gearbox is very happy with one in his Goldie
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=684101

I have an RRT2 gearbox for my RGS project but have bought a pair of modified A65 first gears in a bid to make it more usable on the road (Yet another project that has stalled  *sad2* )

John

John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Online berger

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2017
  • Posts: 3218
  • Karma: 22
  • keith.uk 500sscafe.norbsa JDM honda 750fz
Re: RR T2
« Reply #25 on: 09.06. 2020 19:14 »
hello john I have the A65 layshaft 26t and a 17t main shaft in the RRT2 now, its a step up from the STD 16t and 27t and works well, I have just put the 4 spring clutch together with the correct parts after finding it built with wrong parts so hopefully I will be able to try out all the gears with a working clutch.

Online chaterlea25

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Jun 2009
  • Posts: 4130
  • Karma: 54
Re: RR T2
« Reply #26 on: 09.06. 2020 22:32 »
Hi Berger
Looking forward to hearing how the mod works  *smile*

John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Online berger

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2017
  • Posts: 3218
  • Karma: 22
  • keith.uk 500sscafe.norbsa JDM honda 750fz
Re: RR T2
« Reply #27 on: 14.06. 2020 18:44 »
well john this is the update on the first gear 26t layshaft and 17t main shaft in the rrt2 on my bike 500cc shooting star engine. I have now got the 4 spring clutch set up with the correct parts and it is working as it should do so I went for a ride. my bike with standard gearbox fitted and 20t engine sprocket and 20t gearbox sprocket was a thing of beauty to ride. I have only done about 15 miles today but soon found out that in a small traffic build up the first gear was to tall for my liking. once the clutch was fully engaged and I got going it seemed ok regarding the gap from first to second now the clutch is behaving. however it is coming out because I like the Derbyshire hills and dales and two up [ her indoors likes a blast ]first gear would be a problem. I don't want to mess with the 20t engine and gearbox sprockets because it works really well with the standard box i built a while ago. also the whine has come back in my ears in 3rd and the standard box is quiet. so when the time comes it will probably do what I got it for in the first place and go in the norbsa project with a smaller gearbox sprocket.

Online chaterlea25

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Jun 2009
  • Posts: 4130
  • Karma: 54
Re: RR T2
« Reply #28 on: 14.06. 2020 21:21 »
Hi Berger
Thanks for the up date, much appreciated
With a 650 and a 19 tooth gearbox I think it would be good?? I will do the maths at some stage
I am not sure what the fate of the RGS will be? I have my SR with a lot of personal preference modifications and history
Not a lot of point of having two such similar bikes

John
 
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Online berger

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2017
  • Posts: 3218
  • Karma: 22
  • keith.uk 500sscafe.norbsa JDM honda 750fz
Re: RR T2
« Reply #29 on: 14.06. 2020 23:22 »
i think your right, and i think that first gear combination could be ok if i dropped my 20 gearbox to 19 but i am not messing anymore because i got the set up just right for the std box through all four gears, even though 2nd to 3rd on a std box takes  it off song … for a second or two *whistle* and i can live with that so long as i can do a standing start two up on a very steep hill which i know would be impossible as is without unnecessary revs and slipping the clutch , so here i go again back on the spanners. it would be nice to have loads of old back wheel sprockets and a wheel to match with all the same hole centres and just keep playing with a few extra links of rear chain . single sided drum doesn't let me do that