Clutch Cable supplier

[Jules]

Me again, having reviewed heaps of ideas/suggestions about setting up the 6 spring clutch and how heavy it is, modern cable technology is used on modern bikes which helps the function no end, I'm sure. I read an earlier post about Venhill cables in UK using modern technology with Teflon linings, and, they can copy an existing cable apparently (at a cost), so I asked Draganfly if they used this tech on their cables and of course, no, built to a price via some wholesaler....sooo, has anybody purchased a good "slippery/low friction cable" with success, for reasonable cost? partic. in Australia  ? cheers

[Joolstacho]

Jules, you don't need any clever technology in your cable. Just a good quality cable will do the job easily... for years...and years.
If it's too heavy, strengthen your wrist, or buy a Japanese bike!

[Tomcat]

If a cable has a smooth run and is well lubricated it will be easy to use.

[beezermacc]

Heavy clutches are sometimes due to the handlebar lever geometry. Genuine BSA levers have a shorter distance between the fulcrum and the cable nipple so more leverage but less travel. Clutches can feel quite light but you need to make sure your clutch is running true or you'll get clutch drag due to the limited lift on the plates. I usually set my clutches up so they are comfortable to operate - if they're too heavy I back the springs off a bit and have never found this causes slip. I have got a pretty good grip though!

[ellis]

I always buy Venhill cables and never had a problem with them.

ELLIS

[BSA_54A10]

Me again, having reviewed heaps of ideas/suggestions about setting up the 6 spring clutch and how heavy it is, modern cable technology is used on modern bikes which helps the function no end, I'm sure. I read an earlier post about Venhill cables in UK using modern technology with Teflon linings, and, they can copy an existing cable apparently (at a cost), so I asked Draganfly if they used this tech on their cables and of course, no, built to a price via some wholesaler....sooo, has anybody purchased a good "slippery/low friction cable" with success, for reasonable cost? partic. in Australia  ? cheers

I get cables that I don't make myself from Conwire  https://www.cablerepairs.com.au/.
Way back they made all of the aftermarket motorcycle cables sold retail in Australia
Ring them up & ask.
I use standard wire but put a floating drum on the handlebar end.
I have not had a cable fail on my bike or any other bike I made one for over the past 40 years.
They may have the correct dimensions for your cable .
All of that information was last when they moved down the road several years ago.
So if you want one with a linned inner, just tell them.

A little note here , linned inner cable is usually nylon, not teflon and as such can not be oiled and in particular not touched with WD40 which causes the nylon to swell & jamb the cable.
Whatever you get, use a dry cable lubricant like TriFlow which you will find in a push bike shop for lubing gear cables.

[Jules]

thanks Trevor, I have been in touch with Conwire actually and they have a polyethylene liner on their medium/heavy duty cables, rather than Teflon, as you suggested, not sure how much difference that makes....I used to (try to!) lube my cables way back when, using powdered graphite but the problem with powder/dry lubes is how to get it all the way through the cable length?
what do you mean by "floating drum on the handlebar end" what does that do/how does it work? cheers

[muskrat]

G'day Jules.
Copied from Trevor's post back in 2010.
As for the cables, go into a shop that sells "universal" replacement cables and you will see what I mean.
The drum is not soldered onto the cable but has a countersunk hole in it.
Put the drum on the cable then you solder a "pear" nipple onto the cable.
The drum rotates freely on the pear nipple.
Clutch & brake cables fail from torsional fatigue as they try to rotate when you stretch them but the drum prevents this happening. In theory the rotation happens at the ball end which is why the other end always has a ball on it and should be lubed ( but never is )
Tri-Flow is a lubricant used by push bike owners to lubricate the gear change cables & mechanisms. It is as dear as poison ( see my rant on the stainless thread)  but works perfectly, dose not pick up crud or attack cable covers and is really really slippery.
If you have already lubed your cables then wash them out with kerro ( parrafin to some) first.
So when you pull the lever in the cable rotates in the drum. So there are two parts to the nipple. The inner soldered to the cable rotates in the outer nipple (drum)
Cheers
Cheers

[BSA_54A10]

As Musky has saved me a lot of typing I will add to the Tri-Flow bit.
Push bike shops have a lot of different lubricants used on race bikes that are appiled wet, then the wet carrier medium evaporates leaving the microscopic lubricant particles behind.
These get used for chain gear change cables that have to be both slippery  & dry so they never jamb.
They are also used for lubricating chains.

As for the drum, just tell CONWIRE  you want the drum to be able to rotate they will know what you mean.
Really nice people to deal with and even nicer prices.
President Pete went there 3 weeks ago & got a full set of cables made for less than buying one on evilbay and these were cut to the right length for his bike & handlebars.
The next day I got a mower deck hanger made for 1/4 of the listed factory replacement part price that would been ordered from the USA  so there would be another $ 54 in freight.

[Joolstacho]

Oooh, now, .... a "mower deck hanger".
Impressive!

[Jules]

thanks Trev/Musky, really useful info....I'll follow it up, cheers

[BSA_54A10]

Oooh, now, .... a "mower deck hanger".
Impressive!

I fix lawnmowers instead of motorcycles like was intended because I was a better transport manager then financial manager and then the retirement business got legsilated out of business.