Wheel Truing

[bsa-bill]

I've found that the welded rim joint gives more of a kick on brand new rims

yes but a small problem really, if it's true an inch either side of the weld then accept the world is not perfect. I found this when  I replaced front and rear rims and spokes, I  bought a truing stand similar to the one below and found it quite an enjoyable job

[RDfella]

Make sure all spokes are of roughly even tension, otherwise you can pull the brake drum oval. As others have said, many of today's new wheels are poorly made - more pear-shaped at the weld than round and trying to compensate for that will result in an out-of-round drum. I've had to send rims back before now; some I couldn't get under 1/4" runout at the weld. Others I've managed to improve with a little panel beating. I find (generally) that alloy rims aren't too bad.

[muskrat]

G'day Fellas.
I tend to discount two spokes either side of the weld, just bring them to the same tension as the rest. I like to get run out down to 0.5mm (20 thou").
Cheers

[Miker]

Just had a bit of a hiccup with my wheel truing. I was setting the hub up on my truing stand before I laced it just to see how it all sat and while spinning the hub it looked out of wack. I set the pointer on the hub crinkles and there was about  10mm difference as it turned so the hub is a right-off. Luckily I had a spare wheel in the shed so stripped the hub out of it and checked first that the hub itself was true. So back to sandblasting and painting (Real good character building ).

[muskrat]

G'day Mike.
Just wondering how the hub could be out so much. Bearings not seated properly?
Cheers

[ironhead]

Maybe rivets come loose?

[Rex]

10mm off would be some loose rivet...