Wheel Truing

[Miker]

Hi ,
        Just wondering what the consensus  is on wheel truing. Is it something that could be attempted by the average joe blow or should it be left to the professionals . Are there any tips if doing it yourself  .

[Swarfcut]

 I'm a great one for having a go. You could say an item is screwed anyway, so you can't bugger it up any more. Vacuum cleaners*, circular saws, spectrophotometers, defibrillators etc, the usual straightforward stuff found in any modern home. It is always worth having a play. In the end, you learn something, and if you can't fix it, then call in the professionals.

   Back to your wheel. In theory altering the nipples on the spokes positions the rim where you want it. The problem is that in many cases the nipples are very firmly rusted to the spokes, and the only sensible way is a rebuild....spokes cut out and new spokes and nipples substituted. Then we come into the "not much more for a complete new rim plus spokes territory"

 So look on YouTube for the basics, try moving the nipples, then spend. Have a go yourself as a start, but it will all depend on the state and condition of the spokes and nipples.

 Swarfy.

* Just battled changing a burnt out motor on a Dyson DC27 Vacco. If you meet Mr Dyson, shake him by the hand for a design that would defeat most casual repairers, if you get my drift.




   

[berger]

swarfy engineered not to be played with, under the guise of health and safety, throw it away and buy new is the way of making people rich and destroying the planet many years ago armatures had centre holes, skim the com, turn the shaft down and fit a sleeve where a bearing had seized on it. but having said that nowadays they burn out before they need that sort of attention. and don't get me on modern cars , I lift the bonnet take a look and say take it to the nearest diagnostics centre , go to the bank and empty your account.

[Rex]

As Swarfy says, give it a go, unless the spokes, nipples or rims have had it in which case go for new everything.
Even a build from scratch (with pre-cut and bent spokes, and off-set info etc) isn't difficult, but is very satisfying.

[Swarfcut]

Bergs...Modern cars just need a $ or £ sign for the engine management warning light.  Word has it that when instrument panels fail on high end German Vehicles, the dealers swap out the whole dashboard as they are considered a non serviceable unit. Second time around there are outfits that will replace the failed component at a sensible (compared to dealer) price.

Swarfy.

[Greybeard]

... don't get me on modern cars , I lift the bonnet take a look and say take it to the nearest diagnostics centre , go to the bank and empty your account.

I was a motor mechanic between 1967 to 1979. I could change the kingpins on your Austin A55, or Hillman Imp. I could change the brake shoes on your Morris Minor.
After my folks died I inherited some money. My wife and I decided to buy our first brand new car. It was a Nissan X-Trail. A very good vehicle. When I lifted the bonnet, I didn't recognise anything! We owned the car for 7 years. I took it to a garage for every service. I never did discover where the oil filter lived.

[muskrat]

G'day Miker.
I do all mine and mates wheels. As Swarfy said it depends how frozen the nipples are. Give'm a good soaking in WD40 over night.
I use a dial indicator on a magnetic stand and made my own truing stand with sliding door rollers. Job can be done "on the bike: but much easier on the stand. It can be a bit of a mind game but give it a go.
Cheers

[Jules]

definitely worth a go Miker, I managed to move the rim across on my front wheel and keep the true pretty good, I thought it went very well for a first timer!! The trick is to use small turns at a time, only 1/4 turn for example at a time, good luck 

[Miker]

Thanks everyone I did not mention that the rims and spokes are brand new from Devon Rims (Stainless Steel). I have had a personal message from a local forum member with the offer of help if needed. So more confident with trying it myself with the option of backup.

[TimK]

definitely have a go Miker. I rebuilt my first wheel in about 35 years a couple of weeks ago. It started off about 10mm out of true but by taking my time and making lots of little adjustments I've now got it down to about 1mm - which is perfect as far as I'm concerned!
Cheers
Tim

[Bsareg]

Besides patients, the other essential is a good spoke key.

[RichardL]

Besides patients, the other essential is a good spoke key.

Take the doctor's adcice.

[RichardL]

Fifteen years ago now, I gave it a go and thought I did a good job until I noticed I made them too tight, as revealed by the flared out crinkles on the crinkle hub. Hub can ultimately be saved, but new chrome was wasted. Bought a new hub, new chrome and the service of an expert.

Richard L.!

[Slymo]

Set it up with an axle through it so you can spin it freely. I clamp mine between two lengths of wood and use a marker pen to show wobble high points. Do one axis at a time side to side or up and down. Take your time and walk away for a while if it isn't working. Don't forget to workout your offset if any first. I got my rear wheel for my RE Bullet perfectly true before realizing I had the short spokes on the wrong side. A10 was a doddle as no discernible offset.  Don't be satisfied with more than a couple of mm run out either way but don't stress too much about the rim join as madness lies down that path.
https://youtu.be/lUiPCznhb54

[Rex]

I've found that the welded rim joint gives more of a kick on brand new rims than it does on older OE rims, but agreed, you're not going to straighten out a poor joint by spoke tensioning.