Clutch Disassembly

[Daniel Toro (DT)]

Sorry, but how I disassembly this part?

The screw on the left is very tight and if put some pressure, all the engine turns.

The other one is the same, I don´t have any idea how to keep this part locked.
In the Haynes manual is very simple, but there they disassembly all the engine. Yes, quite easy. kkk.

I bought the seal and hope is this the problem. When I take off the cover, was full of oil, 1 liter I think.

Thanks.
Regards.

[trevinoz]

Select 4th gear and have someone put pressure on the rear brake pedal to hold the assembly.
The front nut may have to be loosened with a drift and hammer.
The clutch nut may need a socket and a long bar.
There should be oil in the chain case.
If your engine is pre 1953, there is no seal behind the sprocket.
Trev.

[Daniel Toro (DT)]

great, Trev.

Thank you very much. I´ve used the drift and hammer but with no success, but was in the neutral.

By the way, I´m selling a brand new oil seal for the primary! hehehehe....

[RichardL]

I have used am 18" plumber's pipe wrench with success, but have now changed to SRM hex-drive type cush nut. The tightened nut, according to SRM should get 65 ft. lbs. Very hard to achieve with a drift or c-spanner wrench.

Richard L.

[Daniel Toro (DT)]

So, if my engine don´t use the seal, what could be the cause of the oil in the primary?

Just the ball+spring inside the engine, or could be something else?

[Daniel Toro (DT)]

Ok, I know, but in the manual says 100cc in the primary and had at least 1 liter.
It was up half the cover with oil.

In this image we can see perfectly the line of oil, almost at half.

I don´t know if this is the normal.

[RichardL]

Was it that way when you got it? Meaning, maybe the last owner didn't know what he was doing. Or, did you fill it normally and it flooded to this level? I am not sure I will have the solution based on these questions, but it could help other members understand the problem and offer advice.

Ricard L.

P.S. Did you make it to Leigh Classics?

[Daniel Toro (DT)]

I fill normally and flooded to this level.

The last time before putting oil I emptied the primary, took off the sump plate and empty the tank of oil. Even here I asked what was the way to put oil in the bike.

I put new oil and soon the primary was filled again. I was betting on the seal, but if my model do not have this restriction, now have a problem.


I make a phone call to the Leigh Classics but they don´t have the spares
I was looking for, so I don´t go there and buy online from Draganfly and Burton Bikes. :)

[a10 gf]

Oil level rising, I see 3 possibilities only: trough gearbox shaft, crankshaft, hole in the crankcase. Time for some detective work !

[LJ.]

DT...

Removing this screw in the picture will give you the correct oil level in the primary chain case. Notice the rubber ring to prevent leakage.

[Daniel Toro (DT)]

Thanks Lg.

Gf, Here´s my detective work:

Assemble all I need to put the bike working.
Leave the primary open, whithout the clutch.
(I was not able to get the engine sprocket off.)

And then, sit down having a beer and looking at the cranckcase until some oil appear.

[Lannis]

I use an air impact wrench (with about 100 PSI of air behind it) to take big engine and clutch nuts off.  Usually you don't even have to lock the brake down, the inertia of the engine and gearbox is enough to hold it for the nut to come off.

Lannis

[RichardL]

I think the impact wrench implies a hex cush nut. Can you set the torque value when spinning on?

On another note, I am completely distracted today, with the Air Force Thunderbirds flying six F16s right by my window as they practice for this weekends Chicago Air and Water Show.

Richard L.

[Daniel Toro (DT)]

The clutch nut I remove without problem after the Trev´s orientation.
Quite easy, in fact.

But the sprocket I don´t even have the tool.
And doesn´t matter, my engine does not have a seal anyway...

[a10 gf]

sit down having a beer and looking

That's the best way to get things working again