A10 GF rebuild

[Norbert 60]

As mentioned in my intro, I have started to rebuild my A10 GF.
I bought it, -if I remember correctly 1985, smashed the Engine at the first long trip on return from holidays in south France in '88, since then it never ran.
In 2000 I started a rebuild and dismantled it, but due job and living situation it survived in boxes, moving several times.

A couple of weeks ago I cleaned up my shed, pulled the remainings out of a corner, opend the boxes and did a quick "dry build".
Suprisingly it seems complete after all these years!

As I am home only at the weekend and my wife is not delighted seeing me all weekend in the shed, it will be a long term project!

My idea is to do the frame and tinwork first, hoping to start assembly after Christmas.

Here some pics

Cheers

Norbert

[RichardL]

Norbert,

That's a great project and does look very complete. I'm guessing (without going back to your old posts) '58 or '59. I'm jealous of what appears to be original side stand and Altette horn. Wondering if you have the intruments to round it out.

You know what they say, "A picture is worth a thousand words." Your pictures tell us that it took at least one of these https://www.rothaus.de/en/our-beers/rothaus-pils-en/tannenzapfle?alter=true between dry-fitting the tank and dry-fitting the silencers.

Richard L.

[RichardL]

Ah! Looking at old posts, see I was right about '59 and that you are seeking a chronometric speedo. This would make for a good opportunity to lavish the wife at Christmas to make the cost of the speedo seem less significant.

Richard L.

[Norbert 60]

Hey Richard,

Already got a Chronometric, -paid a fortune for it, but it made me happy!😇

[Norbert 60]

Your pictures tell us that it took at least one of these https://www.rothaus.de/en/our-beers/rothaus-pils-en/tannenzapfle?alter=true between dry-fitting the tank and dry-fitting the silencers.

Richard L.

OK, maybe not so "dry" build 😊

[muskrat]

G'day Norbert.
Is that the original head? If so she's a Super Rocket. The engine number may tell.
Cheers

[Norbert 60]

G'day Norbert.
Is that the original head? If so she's a Super Rocket. The engine number may tell.
Cheers

 No, the original iron head is cracked, so I bought the Aluminium one some time ago.

[Joolstacho]

Good to see the lubrication for the mechanic.

[Norbert 60]

I started to take it apart again, checking and cleaning bit by by bit.

The forks got new stantions and bushes just a week before I blew the engine.
Fortunately there is only some corrosion in the section of the stantions that is covered by the nacelle.
The oil seal holders will be replaced by stainless steel ones.

I am now considering to change plan.
The cleaned parts kook better than expected, even the corroded chrome parts can be cleaned up to a decent state.
So I will respray / touch up only the worst bits.

Maybe someone can identify the front brake.
The lining is 29mm wide and riveted to the shoes.
Are the linings available or do I need to order complete shoes.

The seat is a bit odd. There are bolts added next to the original fixing points.
Any info or comment is welcome.

A nice day and enjoy yourself

[chaterlea25]

Hi Norbert,
You lucky so and so that is a really nice twin leading shoe brake, more than likely an Eddy Dow version
Be careful taking apart the right/left hand adjuster, the alloy rod maybe seized in the clevis fittings
Over this last weekend I made a new adjusting rod for one of these brakes in stainless steel
It had BSF threads (22tpi), luckily I have a lefthand tap but screw cut the LH thread in the lathe

It is common to see extra holes in the seat base to accommodate the different brackets used on various models

John

[Norbert 60]

Hi John,

many thanks for the info!

[muskrat]

G'day Norbert.
I was interested in that front brake so had a dig. It looked a little Notrunish (has 3 holes). Found this pic of a Goldie with a Phil Pearson brake with two holes but different mounting https://tinyurl.com/yxrjp7vo  Yours might be one of his for a lug mounting. Just a guess.
Cheers

[Norbert 60]

Finally I show a very small progress.
The fork is partially done, fork legs cleaned, gliders resprayed all put togther and looks not too bad.
I took the front wheel apart to clean the spokes and rim. Hub has been resprayed as condition was too poor to keep.
New bearings in an all is back together now.
Instead of bolts there are studs in the fork sliders to clamp the axle.
As 1 of those was broken 3 decades ago and there was no imperial die available I repaired by using a 8mm tap and bolt.
Now I prepared a new stud from a 8mm bolt, cut off the head and cut the correct imperial tread on the other side.
Looks good

It was the 1st time to true the wheel, I checked very carefully before disassembly.
The rim was the cheapest I could get 30 years ago at the Central Wheel Company and true run was not so good before, same is after re-assembly. I keep it for now, in worst case I'll buy a new rim later.

I really struggle with finding new brake linings.
Maybe some of you can help with Part No or supplier.
Width is 28mm, length ~203mm The pivot bore of the shoe is 1/2"
Here some pics.

[morris]

For brake linings, talk to Gary Parkin. Highly recommended!
http://www.gp-motos.com/

[chaterlea25]

Hi
The linings look good enough for reuse to me? good old ones are a lot better than most replacements
Why do you want to change them ?

John