Crankshaft Spacer

[Tomcat]

I'm looking for a 5/16" drive side spacer for an A10. In AU would be good. 

[muskrat]

G'day Tc.
Is that 67-1138 cush drive distance piece?
Cheers

[Tomcat]

G'day Musky

There's 3 listed for Swingarm engines
67-1138 .345" or 8.76mm         DF have one
65-2528 .320"- .325" or 8.2mm Baxter Cycle have one
65-2540 .233"- .238" or 6mm    Mikes have one
 I need 5/16" or 7.75mm. May have to get the 6mm and a hardened washer to pack it out.

Has anyone ground down one of the original spacers to size? Are they hardened right through or case hardened?

[Swarfcut]

TC. I am assuming you need one, as yours is missing. I would not struggle with this, just make your own. That way you have the luxury of adjusting the chain alignment to perfection, simply by altering  the final machined depth. It is just a basic cylinder, with a chamfer at the base to clear the small flare as the crank changes diameter. It is under compression when the cush drive nut is tightened, locking the drive sleeve, spacer, bearing inner race and bearing shims against the crank cheek, but in the short term an unhardened component should do the job.
 
 The critical dimensions are the inner bore, to locate concentrically on the crank, and the O.D. sized and polished to suit the oilseal lip. Easy job for a Musky, and a short term semi-permanent solution to get you mobile.

 Swarfy.

[muskrat]

G'day Tc.
As Swarfy said easy to make one to suit BUT. As the OD has the seal on it, a slightly harder steel than mild is needed and the surface finish must be fine (ground preferable).
Get the 8.2mm one and get it turned down. Again as Swarfy said it's sandwiched between nut and crank so hardness on the end faces isn't critical.
Cheers

[Tomcat]

Thanks to Musky and Swarfy for the helpful replies.
I did have a spacer but it was too thick and the available parts were the wrong size for my primary. Interestingly mine was thicker than the 3 available sizes. 
So, I made a mandrel and ground 2mm from my spacer to correct the mis-aligned primary chain. 

[Tomcat]

And the Boilermaker at work kindly made a cush nut socket for me 

[Swarfcut]

Neat job, that fella did you proud. Better than the factory tool. Very tight is required, plenty of suggested figures on the forum. Some require a bit of courage on that breaker bar.

 A fine bit of grinding too, see the skill in those hands....

 Swarfy.

[Tomcat]

I ground a bit, air cooled it, checked that it was square, then repeat...

[RayC10]

Crickey...grinding on the sides of the wheel...yuck...just don't.....really, just don't.

[muskrat]

G'day RAY.
Normal rules and O,H&S don't apply to us Aussies
Cheers

[berger]

I have not been to the pub,RAYC10 I was told by my old man to always have  the guards fully fitted and stay back until its at full speed- he didn't! he also used the side of the wheels but only to touch lathe tools and drills up. I would say never put heavy load on the side of a wheel and I notice-[ my opinion only] the holding washer is not a big enough diameter for that wheel and there should be paper or thin card cushioning under it never mind it hasn't any guard at all! . always do the RING test on grinding wheels there is so much crap on the market , and make sure if you have a super fast bench grinder the wheels you fit can handle the revs. NEVER grind ally , thankyou for listening sleep well --- no more clogged up petrol taps- or ally in the grinding wheel

[Butch (cb)]

I sharpen drills on the side of the wheel.

[RayC10]

Oh ah....like my sex life...I've done much worse!