What? No oil discussion yet...

[a10 gf]

Any forum about british bikes has some endless oil topics, SO... I'l try starting it now, information about your favorite SAE philosophy is welcome.

In my plunger A10, I have tried most stuff, but always went back to mono 50 or 40 summer, 30 or 40 winter, 40 in gearbox. Multigrade seemed to disappear too quickly, either on the ground, or trough combustion. Better with 20W50, but still some oil consumption. With monograde leaks are next to zero, and oil consumption is very low. If I get it right, only practical advantage of multigrade is at startup with cold engine, so I always allow some warm up riding before putting any real load on the engine.

Regards
E.

[BrianDallasTX]

I run straight 40 all around.  As far as cold weather starts, I usually smoke a cig. and let the bike warm up.  I got into that habit with my VW (air cooled as well).  I always open the tank to make sure that oil is returning before leaving the house.  My basic philosophy is " If it ain't leaking you'd better check the oil level!"

[LJ.]

The idea of a filter and 20/50 multigrade makes such alot of sense, I did go down this route on experts advice. However I found that my bike just did not like this, it blew most of the oil out of the breather. We found that the turbulence was placing much of the oily mist on the back of my wifes very nice sheepskin jacket and I was forever cleaning up the rear wheel rims. So I am back to straight 40 all year round as well and the bike runs very happily for this. I do like to use the Castrol xxl40 as it does give a nice smell, it is not the proper 'r' oil but there is something nice about it. I buy a 25 litre drum at a time, and aim to change the oil every 1,500 miles. Works for me!

[a10 gf]

The idea of a filter and 20/50 multigrade makes such alot of sense, I did go down this route on experts advice. However I found that my bike just did not like this, it blew most of the oil out of the breather.

This was interesting info, have a filter ready to fit, never tought about increased crankcase pressure.

Thanks
E.
"love the smell of burned oil in the morning"

[bsa-bill]

I have a filter fitted and run 20/50, no problems, I have also run with straight 40 ( Chatsworth ) can't say there was any benefit or otherwise.
I would think if oil is being blown out of the engine breather, there is a problem to be investigated, rings, rebore, breather cork or maybe even the breather itself.
I know one A10 owner who reckons there is at least three versions of the top hat breather, all with the hole in different places, why?

Also I was a bit dubious about back pressure created by a filter until I tested. no effort at all is required to blow through the filter even with my old lungs,this is with the CV filter

All the best - Bill

[LJ.]

Perhaps I was too hasty to blame the poor old filter, I had thought that it may have been too fine a paper element causing a partial blockage on the return. However as you, Bill, mention that there could be problems with the breather, is it possible to fix the breather from the timing side rather than a full strip down? If there is alot of work and expense involved then I'd best leave it as it is. As they say "If it aint broke then dont fix"  :)

[1KCBC]

I always use 20w50 but when I rode while rainy,my engine was run better.Ambience temperature in my country about 28-32 celsius.
Should me change the oil to higher number?

Thanks.
Jaran

[fido]

The filter should not cause a lot of resistance. It has a bypass valve to allow oil to flow if it gets blocked. For this reason, running with an old choked filter is the same as running with no filter.

[jfligg]

Hi Guys
  I always use a straight 50 oil.  The one I use is a Heavey Duty Diesel oil.  I found that when I used a multi grade 20w50 oil the bike seemed to run  hotter and there was alot of froth out of the oil cap vent.  I have recently foung that there is a big difference between motorcycle and car oils.  The motorcycles have a ZDDP content.  This has to do with the levels of zinc and phosphous in the oil.   I am told they adhere to cams, tappets,  lifters better.  I am still on the search for a true straight 50 motorcycle oil in Canada.  Then again I know a guy who swears by full syth oils, and he runs a Norton Atlas.  So the debate continues.  Jeff

[bsa-bill]

the cork seal on the breather can be replaced with out full tear down but you will need to remove the outer and inner timing case cover this will involve removing the dynamo chain sprocket.
Breather corks come in four sizes you need to get a set first, you fit the thickest that will go in.
not a big job really

on the oil thing I do believe Duckhams 20/50 was developed for use in motercyles

All the best - Bill

[fido]

If using diesel oil you would need a filter as it has a high detergent content and will clean out any sludge and circulate it round your bearings etc. Personally I would not risk it even with a filter. I also use Duckams 20/50.

[a10 gf]

I always use 20w50 but when I rode while rainy,my engine was run better.Ambience temperature in my country about 28-32 celsius. Should me change the oil to higher number?

Thanks.
Jaran

Hi, looks like you live in the ideal climate for w50! You can safely try it and see if engine runs better when not water-(rain-)cooled.

I use Pennzoil HD http://www.pennzoil.com/products/motor_oil/hd_oil.html , not expensive (can change oil often without feeling I waste money), and easily available (here).

Regards
E.

[BrianDallasTX]

I try to change every 500-1000 miles as oil is cheap.  I am a firm believer that any oil is better than no oil.

I use Castrol HD.  I know it is "car oil" but I have never had an issue.  Besides you can get it anywhere.  I have found that if the level looks a bit low and I add a 1/2 qt. that the breather(?) spits it on the ground, and the rest of time there are no leaks, except off the rear of the fully enclosed chainguard.

[a10 gf]

for the investigative and curious, lot's of reading for xmas 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

[old PJ]

Any forum about british bikes has some endless oil topics, SO... I'l try starting it now, information about your favorite SAE philosophy is welcome.

In my plunger A10, I have tried most stuff, but always went back to mono 50 or 40 summer, 30 or 40 winter, 40 in gearbox. Multigrade seemed to disappear too quickly, either on the ground, or trough combustion. Better with 20W50, but still some oil consumption. With monograde leaks are next to zero, and oil consumption is very low. If I get it right, only practical advantage of multigrade is at startup with cold engine, so I always allow some warm up riding before putting any real load on the engine.

Regards
E.

I have found that the Harley Davidson oil 20/50 is very good in my A10 it has been specifically made for shell and roller bearing engines and it has an additive that keeps things nice and clean and its got a very high specification. Been in my swing arm  A10 - 1961 for 12 years and its still going well with no problems at all  and i might try it in my plunger A10 - 1954.  Harley Davidson do a good gearbox primery oil and i will be trying that next   . My mate has a A65 that he is rebuilding and thats getting harley oil  as he has found the same as me its good oil .