1951 A10 lower front engine to frame stud...

[Steverat]

...is 7/16" diameter where it passes through the crank cases but the holes in the corresponding frame lugs are 1/2". Can this be right? Makes it easier to get the stud in but cannot be good engineering practice surely?

[duTch]

 Mine is same, but I have some spigot/spacer sleeves in there through both sections, but can't remember if they were in there when I started...I also think the parts list doesn't show them/ any

[a]

Yes there should be dowel tubes in there that keep the two parts of the frame lined up...

[muskrat]

G'day Brett.
I can't see them in any parts book. Do you have a part # for them?
Cheers

[a]

I have looked but cant find them anywhere in a parts book, But every frame we have seen has them, common sense says it has them haha , just not a parts book!
Same Idea as where the two frame parts bolt together at the upper frame(Seat mount), there is also a dowel that goes through the complete section, 65-4488.

[Steverat]

Yes we've got that one, perhaps I'll procure another and saw it in half.

[muskrat]

Found the same thing with the CB900/1100. There's a long dowel in the oil pump that isn't in the parts list.
Wonder why people get confused and frustrated.
Where's that beer?
Cheers

[Steverat]

I ordered a new stud by part number from Draganfly, what came was even thinner, only 3/8” when even the hole on the crankcases is 7/16”. To use it I’d have to sleeve it twice. I wonder why they did that. Will call them and report.

[berger]

steverat I ordered crankshaft flywheel bolts by the part No these are 6 tough bolts to take the strains you could imagine they have to cope with, they said they had them, but sent me SET screws so they went back  along with a lot more of my order --soft instead of hard washers etc------I could have gone to B&Q and got the same bits i ordered for a third of the price

[ellis]

Two years ago after a re build of my 1960 GF I was tightening down the barrel base nuts or tried to. They were so soft that the threads just stripped out of the nuts so returned them to the supplier with a note to say I expected better from them. ( DRAGANFLY ) and stopped using them altogether.

ELLIS

[Steverat]

So who would be the best supplier for correct BSA fasteners?

[Peter Gee]

@ Steverat..can you say the part no of the offending stud..sorry it's not obvious to me anyway? I could not find any pacers  in my 59 A7SS rebuild  dismantled stuff I got, but logic  on trial build meant they MUST be there so I  trial-fitted the front engine "Dynamo" plates then  a measured  and turned two  spacers about 1/2 " x 3/8" (don't quote me) ...otherwise you bend the frame inwards when tightening, if we re on the same page?

[duTch]

 Pete- s-rats is a Plunger frame, your Swing Arm frame parts list shows the engine plates appear to have the spacers integral with the plates....Plungers models only have a top mount in those plates which are similar but way different

[Steverat]

Thanks for enquiring, DuTch is right, I'm talking about stud 67-1251 which goes through the engine at the front lower location and the lugs terminating the frame tubes in that area. The hole in the engine is 7/16" diameter and so I deduce the stud should be that size also. However Drags sent me a 3/8" stud. To complicate further, the holes in the frame lugs are 1/2" necessitating dowelling if fretting is to be avoided. I found a supplier of suitable thin wall tube on Ebay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Capillary-tube-304-thin-walled-round-tubing-0-8-12mm-stainless-steel-1-4301-0-3/192641964429?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=492784365401&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

so I'm looking forward to getting that and will report.

[bakerlonglegs]

I have this problem with my plunger rebuild, made worse by the fact that over time the holes have all enlarged slightly.  I’m going to start from scratch and make a new stud from a rod, cut to size and threaded. Does anyone have any recommendations for what material to use - would mild steel be OK?