What have you done with your bike/s today?

[groily]

After the umpteenth grovel through ditches and verges, this is my fix on the Burman box of my most-used daily rider. It's a fine spline - it would be too easy to overtighten and break the alloy lever at the clamp bolt.
Cover off, shaft out, drilled and tapped up the middle, small setscrew and washer, say 1/4 BSC or M6 - and no way it can disappear again. Others use a bit 'o wire and a small drilling through the lever in a not-visible place to keep the lever with the bike if it comes off.
(It could, of course, be done prettily for a prettier shinier machine.)

[Worty]

I was searching Freecycle a few years back when some guy put a load of really old spanners up free on collection.  There were all sorts; AF, Whit, etc.  I sometimes find that a rusty old, 100 year old, spanner will fit a bolt/nut that nothing else will, for some reason

[Colsbeeza]

Not much on the BSA lately, just love running my hands over it occasionally. It has been too B--- hot lately to enjoy riding, but I will take it out for a spin tomorrow morning early. 38 C again today, 41 yesterday. El Nino is here again.
Been fettling the 1966 500cc Lilac Magnum flat twin to get it running again after a 20 year lay-up. Found the carbs all over the place which explained its poor performance way back then. Any body lay their hands on a Mikuni Manual for my carbs?? They are Mikuni Shoko VM22 from 1964-65. Col

[Joolstacho]

Not quite as 'desirable' as Col's project, but today I need to get onto fitting the new condenser for Mary's Suzi TS100.
I did it once, but the new condenser supplied was wrong,-just 1mm too long, -but enough to cause the elec' connectors on top of it to short out on the inside of the flywheel rotor.
Not a pretty bike, but a really useful small trail bike from the early 70's. And it's dead original and complete.

[muskrat]

G'day Fellas.
The 10mm alloy plate arrived yesterday for the carb flanges.
Bought a 76mm hole saw to cut out two discs, mounted in lathe to bore a thou smaller than the carb mouth then drilled the holes for the studs & nuts.
Bugga, with the studs in the manifold and the flange on the carb there's no room for nuts.
The holes in the flange will take helicoils and the studs in the manifold removed and drilled so allen head bolts will hold it all together.
But now I'm off to the work Xmas party. Do not disturb tomorrow morning!
Cheers

[Worty]

Have fun Musky, and don't take the bike mate

[muskrat]

G'day Worty.
My head hurts this morning. The boss drove us to and from so I got stuck into the Hillbilly Cider.
I'll fiddle with the flanges/manifolds for a couple of hours then up to a mates to help him get the forks & primary on his HD.
Cheers

[Worty]

Well done mate!  On some antibiotics for a chest infection, but will be out on the bikes as soon as I'm fit enough.

Hate the Winter, roll on Spring!

[Colsbeeza]

I did take the Flash out for a short spin this morning. Started and ran well.
I did observe that the oil return was solid for about 15 seconds after hitting the start button. Out of interest I wondered if I could use this information to calculate the oil wetsumped since I last rode it exactly 5 weeks ago.
I calculated that at just above idle - guessed 1150 rpm, and 20-60W oil cold, feed was about 0.84 l/min and scavenge was about 1.41 l/min. The difference was 0.57 l/min. I did spend days working these figures out a couple of years ago. For a guessed 15 seconds to clear the excess oil in sump, it calculated to 101 mls wetsumped since last ride, or 20 mls / week. Fairly consistent with my previous sump plug draining measurements.
I know many would dream of such little wetsumping, but I did put in the work to bed the anti-drain ball well and I have a new SRM oil pump and PRV.
Next ride, I will record more accurately the time to clear and the rpm at start (I have a cheapo electronic tacho fitted).
Perhaps that may be useful for those who don't have a major wetsumping issue (requiring sump draining every ride) and want to monitor it easily?
Did I just open a can of worms??
Col

[Black Sheep]

Fitted the recon mag to the Dominator this time using a BSA extended nut for the bottom stud. So much easier - why didn't Norton do this in the first place?

[berger]

Col not a can of worms more like a can of oil, all you have to do with a wet sumping bike is take the oil cap off look inside and if the level has dropped to the point that you need a telescope to see it you know it's in the sump. if you start it the oil will most probably be thrown out all over the floor and in my case many years ago forced through the mag seal and dripping out of the mag i would say rule of thumb to drain the sump is 1 inch below your normal tank level.

[Greybeard]

Surely, (don't call me Shirley) if you start the engine and let it tick-over it will pump the jollop back up into the tank. That was what I always did with mine.

[Worty]

Surely, (don't call me Shirley) if you start the engine and let it tick-over it will pump the jollop back up into the tank. That was what I always did with mine.

But if all your oil has drained into the sump, I was told you could break a ring and/or have oil pumping out the breather like an oil well blowout.

[berger]

GB the pressure under the pistons shoves the dollop out of the breather and anywhere else it wants to go if there's enough of it in the crankcases , as i found out many many moons ago,  by the way when moon come over mountain----white man die!

[Worty]

by the way when moon come over mountain----white man die!

'ow many B&Ts 'ave yer 'ad mate?