What have you done with your bike/s today?

[berger]

worty i am NOT doing any 10 or 15 or even 20 multi for my betsy , she has 40 or 50 straight. you can have the link thingy it's some more stuff out of my way and it's not foreign made!!! you do realise if you take another link out of a chain when it's nearly there you end up with saying i shouldn't have done that

[Worty]

worty i am NOT doing any 10 or 15 or even 20 multi for my betsy , she has 40 or 50 straight. you can have the link thingy it's some more stuff out of my way and it's not foreign made!!! you do realise if you take another link out of a chain when it's nearly there you end up with saying i shouldn't have done that

Cheers Bergs, next time I'm down, which will be on the Beeza, I'll have a look at the link extractor.  Don't worry, I'm going to leave the chains until they're right at the end of their adjustment, then drop a link out of the primary.  Chainwheel and sprocket are perfect after MWAS's work, by the way!

[CheeserBeezer]

Just come in from the workshop after working on the A10 RR. Another frustrating day dealing with parts which don't quite fit. Brand new front fork stanchions which have tapers at the top slightly too small so the tapers protrude above the top yoke by about 1 mm. Easy fix but irritating. Headlamp mounts/fork shrouds slightly too short so have to file the holes where they mount onto the bottom yoke so they can slide up a bit; also the one on the RHS doesn't align centrally with the fork seal holder so a bit of twisting and graunching to do but, hey, it'll be worth it when I'm blatting along the country lanes with a smile on my face!

[Worty]

So I ignored what I was going to do with the primary chain, and dropped another link out.  As it happens, the chain is now fine and just as I want it, more toward the least amount of adjustment - this also makes the final drive chain correct too (very pleased) .  Even better, the stripped stud hole in the crankcases for the sump plate was bothering me as the gasket seal isn't great anyway and I didn't feel using resin to stick it in was very satisfactory.  The original (3.1mm) thread was completely stripped in the crankcase, so I looked around for a slightly larger bolt that may 'tap in' to the hole.   Incredibly, I found a single, high tensile bolt that was 3.4mm, so tried that thinking that the steel would cut a new thread into the ally without drilling.  After a few tries, it took and I was able to cut a really tight thread into the ally up to about 10mm or so, it even accommodates the sump plate and gaskets, although I may have to enlarge the sump plate hole by 0.5mm to get it on and off more smoothly.   I know this won't please the purists, but there's nothing 'pure' about my motor and I didn't want to be removing the engine to get it professionally tapped out with all the associated costs!

Tomorrow will be about grinding off the hex on the bolt to form a threaded stud.  Then I need to make sure the clutch springs are adjusted correctly - look pretty good by eye.  Then on with the primary cover.  Next comes a replacement rear brake cable - broken when I was tightening the cush nut.  Then, maybe, the slight fuel tap leak.  Reckon I'll need to get it out on the road to test before doing anything else though.

[RDfella]

Can't be 3.4mm - that's just over 1/8" and those studs are 2 x that size @ 1/4" (which is just over 6mm). That said, if you want to 'force' a bolt into a sofer material, put a hacksaw slot in the thread lengthwise to the bolt. That way it'll act like a tap.

[Sav]

Rode the new addition, the Honda (sorry) CL350 street scrambler 65 miles today. 5k+ revs at 50mph seems like I'm screaming it after the beezers. Smaller rear sprocket already ordered!

Sadly the 'Emp' (M23) goes to a new home on Tuesday.

[Worty]

Can't be 3.4mm - that's just over 1/8" and those studs are 2 x that size @ 1/4" (which is just over 6mm). That said, if you want to 'force' a bolt into a sofer material, put a hacksaw slot in the thread lengthwise to the bolt. That way it'll act like a tap.

Sorry RD, my vernier is playing up as I found out when I did some more measuring.  I'll post the actual sizes a bit later.  Thought it was odd when my cheapo gauge measured 3.4mm, but the hole in the sump took a 7mm drill very easily.  Will drill out to 7.5mm this morning and see how it goes.  Need to be more careful to make sure the angle grinder doesn't slip this time.

I only have one of the bolts that fit, so it's a bit of one shot repair.  I could slot the bolt, but do I want to do that if I'm actually using that bolt??

[Worty]

Stud = 6.33mm and bolt = 6.86mm.  Only gives me about 0.5mm of thread depth, but it only needs to be secure for the sump plate. 

[berger]

worty if your vernier is playing up like that throw the towel in before the hole gets too big and breaks the bit of casting when re threading. how much meat have you got to play with? don't forget the casting tapers off up inside. i would be tempted to see if there's any thread in the hole and insert the 1/4 stud back in with some strong chemical metal and let it harden. there's no pressure on the sump plate and you could use some good sealant to stop it leaking using a LITTLE bit more spanner on the three good ones

[Worty]

Cheers Bergs.  The original stud just pulls in and out with no resistance at all as all the thread is fubar.  The bolt I put in is solid where it is, and seems to have threaded well up to the same depth as the original stud (thanks for letting me know it tapers off!!). Also, no cracks in the cases - didn't hear any cracking noises and was ultra careful in screwing it in.

I do have some pretty good resin stuff, but because there's no remaining thread to key in to, I'm going to go for my fix and see how it goes.  I've drilled out the sump plate bolt hole to 7.5mm, so hopefully that'll make removal a bit easier (bit tight getting it off once over the bolt - probably is a fraction off centre too).

Wot's the worst that can happen mate??   

[berger]

worty the worst that can happen is you overflowing your pint glass with tears

[Worty]

worty the worst that can happen is you overflowing your pint glass with tears

🤞🤞🤞

[Worty]

See piccies for my handiwork.

Interesting putting the primary cover back on.  When I spun the clutch basket round, it was catching on something.  Turns out it was the inner primary so, I had to change the 'shim' on the rear fixing point to push it back a bit.  As with Col's idea, I didn't tighten it up until the cover was back on, then belted it all up.  Not catching anymore, but I betcha there will be a bit of a leak.  Next time it comes apart, I may take out the circular plate from the front and see how I get on.  Clutch looks pretty decent, not much runout.  Next job is to whip the timing side off to check all is well with the dynamo chain, etc.

All that was on the sump gauze was more blue sealant Bergs. No conrods, pistons, or shims as yet.

[berger]

worty oh dear blue sealant coming down into the sump!! that means only one thing , it is getting washed out of the distorted cases and barrel base and all the other places that i threw it in and will be chucking oil all over you when you take it out again. get your wellies on me duk

[Worty]

worty oh dear blue sealant coming down into the sump!! that means only one thing , it is getting washed out of the distorted cases and barrel base and all the other places that i threw it in and will be chucking oil all over you when you take it out again. get your wellies on me duk

That's ok Bergs, I've got a load of relatively cheap oil to keep it topped up!  Reckon I'll just blast it around and have fun.  Keep your eyes peeled on Ebay for BSA A10 'engine parts' if it does go bang!  Thinking about it, there won't be many 'good' bits. Crank and barrels are on their last grind/rebore.  Crankcases are distorted.  Valves have taken a hammering and it probably needs guides.  I reckon the only good bit is the new ATD which, ironically, was the part that caused so many of my troubles.

If there's anyone out there with a pristine motor for 'mates rates', let me know.