What have you done with your bike/s today?

[Greybeard]

There is no hole in the bottom of the PR tunnel. If it fell in, it's still in there.

[Swarfcut]

 Words of wisdom there from those truly wise and enlightened. Bits of a foreign object embed themselves in soft bearing bushes, jam fine tolerances and like Musky's sad tale cost time, effort and big money out of all proportion to their insignificant value.

 Swarfy says "No if's or buts, that washer has to be found and removed "

   Worty... The sooner the better as you stand a good chance of finding it whole, rather than as an assortment of mangles.  Easiest for starters is a bright light looky around the valve springs, inside the coils, spring seat wells. Then a mirror looky down the pushrod tunnel with the rocker box on. Sods law and gravity more probably mean it's out of sight, so it's rocker box off and  pushrods out, and its a bent wire hook or dab of grease on a stick to lift it out.  Nothing there? It never fell in? I'll leave others to pontificate on further action if this is the case. Well worth doing the job, otherwise every ride will be with a little extra mental niggle, and that ain't good in these uncertain times for the sake of a few gaskets and proven gynecological skills.

[Worty]

Ok, calmed down and listened to reason.  As soon as the sages of this forum insisted it needed to be found, I went back to the garage, rocker cover off immediately.  Didn't even have to remove the pushrods to see said washer glistening up at me.  As I removed the pushrods the washer stood up on its end.  Tried a strong magnet but gave up as, without the magnet being very secure, it would stick to the side of the barrel and I'd then have a additional problem of extracting a very stubborn magnet.  Some time ago I invested  a few quid on a hook and scraper set with all sorts of interesting ends.  Went for the curved hook, tagged the washer straight away, and out it came.

After that, I felt a bit more enthusiastic. Cleaned all the gasket cack from the surfaces and gentle clean with mini copper wire brush, all spotless now.  My fear is now trying to get the pushrods back in and aligned.  The manual says the longest go in the middle and are for the exhaust rockers, presumably the shorter ones go on the outside for inlet.  ANY tips on how to do this would be appreciated.  I think I have a 'comb' somewhere, but understand this can be a bit of a &^%$(*& if you've got a bit of liquid gasket with the paper one (messy and awkward).

Thanks for the encouragement folks, bike almost went through the window after this tiny mishap caused so much hassle.  Even dropping the clutch adjustment lever nut in the gearbox wasn't as bad as this (I did retrieve that, by the way).  Nice feeling to have got the washer out so easily, and I've learnt something of the internals of the engine, i.e., that the washer was captive in the pushrod tunnel.

All advice gratefully received!!

[RichardL]

Unless you have concert-pianist fingers, I believe the comb is the easiest way to go. I use rubber bands (and I'm not alone) to hold the rockers in the up position while getting the pushrods aligned. My method is to apply sealer only to the box as stickum for the gasket, then, sealer to the underside of the gasket. Then, maintain the box above and clear of the comb until the rockers are in contact (I think I recall that that requires releasing, or loosening, the rubber bands).

Richard

[Worty]

Cheers Richard, very good advice, feeling more confident about the job now, new gaskets on way.

[Greybeard]

I wrote up my method for rocker box fitting. I'll see if I can find it for you.

'My method for those pesky pushy rods: open all the adjusters fully. Hold the rocker arms up, (cups held down) with lacky bands over the top of the rocker box. Wind the end of a length of soft gardening wire around each push rod. As you lower the box, manouvre the wires to get the rods in the cups. A bright torch helps. When the rods are all located pull the wires out then tighten down the box. As the adjusters are fully out, the pushrods can drop out of the cup, so cut the elastic bands and pull them out after you've set the valve gaps.'

[RichardL]

Different strokes for different folks, but, also worthy.

Richard L.

[Worty]

Had a practice session trying to get rocker box on with pushrods line up - what a total b^&%$£d of a job!!  Brillian design again by BSA as the box is tagged on the frame by the inspection cover studs.  Tried to use the 'comb' with a little success, but how do you hold the comb in place whilst dropping the box on???  Four hands would do the job!  This is also a dry run, with sealer and gaskets in place - OMG.  If there are any other tips aside from the ones offered by Richard and GB, I'd be all ears.

Another quick question - is it possible to 'test' whether the push rods have located prior to tightening up, i.e., partial tighten up and VERY gentle engine turn to see if all rockers move???

[Greybeard]

Had a practice session trying to get rocker box on with pushrods line up - what a total b^&%$£d of a job!!

In my experience the job is sometimes easy, sometimes it's a pig. I think it's my state of mind that makes the difference. Try a dry run using my method.

If the inspection cover studs are causing a problem, lock a couple of nuts on them and remove them.

[Roger (Doomtrainbarx)]

I use this simple paper clip to hold the comb in place - you can use welding clamps

[Worty]

These really help GB and Roger.  I was thinking of clothes pegs for the comb.

So, as a combination of ideas, I reckon I'll try:

1. Removal of top inspection cover studs using GB's suggestion.
2. Gaskets and sealant on.
3. Comb on held in place with clips.
4. Slacken off adjusters, hold rockers up with cups down with bands (bands should expand a bit if rods are located properly??).
5. Lower box into place until it sits easily.
6. Check pushrods don't move around using one of my clever curved end picks (that I rescued the washer with).
7. Once happy pushrods don't move around, screw in adjusters around half way or so (without dropping them into rocker box!!!!).
8. Gently start to tighten everything up after removing comb.
9. When almost tight, slight tickle on rear wheel in fourth to check if all four rockers move a bit (bands still on).
10. If all rockers move, screw adjusters in a little more - nearer to normal adjustment.
11.  Tighten up more and remove bands.
12.  Finish tightening and adjust tappets as necessary.

Does this sound like a plan folks??

[Roger (Doomtrainbarx)]

You can make spacer or bend the comb into a Z shape to clamp on the head fin.

[Worty]

I've got quite a few small crocodile clips 

[Swarfcut]

 Another hooligans trick is to remove the rockerbox corner studs. This makes moving the box around the inlet valve springs a whole lot easier. The hooligan then cuts a slot in the lower end of the stud, screws them up unto the box. Grease on the pushrod ends helps hold the pushrods in the rocker and tappet cups.  GB's method of wire loops works well and with gasket cement is far less messy and has a better chance of settling individual rods rather than the all or nothing scenario with the comb.

 At the end of the days it's what works best for you with the least hassle.

 Swarfy.

 Additional. Stage ONE is a few choice words to the offending fornicating article, stressing the error of its ways, together with its lack of married parents.....

[Worty]

With the crank end float, trying to seal the primary case with liquid gasket, dropping the washer into the push rod tunnel, putting it all back together angrily, taking it all apart, including the rocker box, retrieving the washer (which, in the end, was the easiest task!!!), then trying to figure out how to manouevre the rocker box back on whilst locating the push rods .......... the neighbours are now afraid to speak to me after the language that was used - another special place in hell for BSA designers.