What have you done with your bike/s today?

[Worty]

Aye lad, I remember a time despatch riding when I was sent from Birmingham to south London, to a private address, on a Friday night with it 'stairrodding' it down.  Had already done Birmingham to Leicester to Heathrow, got back to base in Brum (soaking wet) and went straight back out to South Norwood.  M6/M1 was reduced to 50mph, so I undertook the drivers in the r/h lane, failing to spot Plod who pulled me.  After the Good Cop/Bad Cop routine, I went on my way.  Returned home at 12.30am after a 17 hour day in the saddle.  Needless to say, I found a good way of 'relaxing' before enjoying my lie in Sat morning.

There's no beating being on a bike, even on a very average day, but there are also times it'll bite you on the backside - just to remind you how privileged you are.

[Greybeard]

I've had some leakage from the gearbox and needed to make sure the drain plug wasn't the culprit. I drained the gearbox and refitted the plug with a new fibre washer.

Something I've been meaning to discuss is this: When filling the gearbox, oil soon comes out of the level plug hole on the side. At that point one might stop putting oil in the box; however, that stream quickly stops. If you squirt more oil in you get a far longer stream of surplus oil. My understanding of this behaviour is that the oil fills the outer case and soon shows at the overflow but the inner case has yet to reach the full mark. If one keeps squirting oil the inner case fills and the long stream is the actual point where you should stop. Thoughts?

[Worty]

Fair point GB.  I was told that you should fill the gearbox until it is level with the bush you can see just behind the clutch actuating lever.  I'm guessing that if you fill to this level, run the bike for a short while then check and top up again, you should be ok.  I don't tend to use the level plug hole.

[RDfella]

Glad you raised the level issue, Neil. A while back, when my plunger box on the project was leaking from several places (speedo cable, detent plunger etc) I decided to check the level. Undid the plug and a little oil came out so I presumed all was OK. Shortly after I decided to change the oil. Undid the drain plug and nothing came out. It was empty. Now I don't trust the level plug at all. Best to drain the box and then add a pint of fresh oil (have recently changed my boxes from 40 engine oil to EP90 - except the B31 which has always had R40 in engine and gearbox).
Having just read a very informative book about tuning Villiers engines (they're now getting over 30bhp from a 197) I learnt R40 is not as uncommon in gearboxes as I thought. They also use it in primary cases, when they found ATF would cause clutch slip.

[Worty]

I reckon if you put in the recommended amount regardless of the oil level, it'll find its own 'level'.  I use a mix of 20/50 and EP90 in gearbox and primary - no issues with clutch slip or gearbox.

[Greybeard]

I reckon if you put in the recommended amount regardless of the oil level, it'll find its own 'level'.  I use a mix of 20/50 and EP90 in gearbox and primary - no issues with clutch slip or gearbox.

I never seem to have the capacity charts handy when I need them.

[Swarfcut]

 Regarding that pesky gearbox oil level. Oil from the outer gearbox section reaches the main gearbox case via a single 1/4" hole in the inner cover, positioned below the level set by the level plug. Filling the box to almost brim over the filler aperture will allow oil to cascade through the inner cover cut out for the gear change selector arm. This is a quicker but more messy method to introduce oil into the main case.

 However you do it, incremental fill or measured volume, it is essential that time is allowed for the inner and outer oil levels to equalise and give a true level of what's within the main case.

 At the correct level, layshaft bushes and speedo drive all run more or less fully immersed with a plentiful supply of lubricant.

 Swarfy.

[Greybeard]

Swarfy, you've confirmed my thinking. 👍

[RDfella]

Back to 'what have you done ......'. Well, actually nothing, but it is related.
My lathe chuck has been pizzing me off for more that a year now. I fitted it new when I got the lathe 25 or so years ago, but now it runs out by .006" or more when you put a bar in it.  Depending on what one's doing that can be a real PITA. Years of gripping things close to the jaw ends doesn't help a chuck's long-term accuracy. When gripping internally, it runs within a thou, but how often does one grip that way?
And so when the firm I buy most of my tooling from was recently offering new chucks at almost half price (£207 instead of usual £388) I ordered one. Fitted it this afternoon. Was some trepidation as to whether the register and fixing bolt PCD would be the same, but I was in luck. Tried a bar in it with dial gauge - about half a thou run-out. Happy again. 

[Worty]

Beats the hell out of my hand drill and bastard file

[Greybeard]

Beats the hell out of my hand drill and bastard file

LANGUAGE TIMOTHY!

[Greybeard]

And so when the firm I buy most of my tooling from was recently offering new chucks at almost half price (£207 instead of usual £388) I ordered one. Fitted it this afternoon. Was some trepidation as to whether the register and fixing bolt PCD would be the same, but I was in luck. Tried a bar in it with dial gauge - about half a thou run-out. Happy again. 

Made in China?

[groily]

about half a thou run-out. Happy again. 

Probably the bar RD! 

[Greybeard]

Today I washed and polished Emily (the A10) in readiness for the weekend at BSAOC South Wales. I know BigJim intends to be there. Is anyone else here going?

[groily]

May the Weather Gods be kind to Emily's paint and polish, and to your own good self GB. You'll be OK - it never rains in Wales.
(Just pours it down!)