BUGGA 
Rather what I said worty! Thanks for reminding me in colour to match!
However, as Rob said and I did too, could have been horribly worse. Managed to grab the clutch pdq as the motor changed pitch and slowed, which was something.
Very glad not to have thrown a rod as the cases have suffered that once in their (PO's) life already and it was £$£$€€ to fix after I acquired the bike.
The other journals both mike up to spec all round and across and are virtually unmarked even under a magnifying glass, with shells that are
just starting to show what would have happened next.
Not sure of the virtues / wisdom of grinding one journal down a size and just polishing t'others if they're pronounced fit . . . Never done it before, anyway - has anyone else I wonder? Probably no huge deal in the overall context of a crank that is very heavy . . . but it had been dynamically balanced at some expense so not looking for short cuts.
I don't think it's a
mega bucks thing Col, no.
Depends partly on whether that rod passes muster - true, not oval, no cracks etc - but I've seen worse that have been OK, and that's a quality item. I've already got it clean and shiny with the run bearing material off the sides. Small end, which runs direct on gudgeon pin, is good still. I'll use a new spare or pair if I have to. A regrind isn't going to break the bank too much and there aren't many bits needed except the obvious consumables. I have b/end and main bearing shells for most sizes for these motors in boxes because for a while they were hard to get, so I snaffled what I could. The roller mains are chunky items, and look good so far, camshafts and bushes are perfect, followers ditto, so it'll be a handful of hundreds I think at this stage, bit more if I get a spare set of pistons just in case I decide I do need them after all. As they've done 11 years at about 3K per annum I'd prefer to get to the next rebore on them though, which typically would be somewhere between 40-50K miles. Ring gaps are obviously larger than when new, but still pretty OK and there are no ridges on the cylinders. One exhaust pushrod - they're tubular alloy with press-on ball and socket ends - has a loose cup at the rocker end, but this is common with these and likely nowt to do with the rest of it. The tubes are relatively thick-walled, and I've usually found a light knurl to provide a better key, with some loctite, works wonders. They can't go anywhere even if the fit is loose. The rocker shafts and bushes are all fine.
Oh well, all good practice I suppose, and I've been lucky, mostly, for a long time with my toys.
