What have you done with your bike/s today?

[Worty]

any tips on cutting it out ? yes don't use blunt scissors . apart from that if you haven't got hole punches fasten your outer case down with clamps solidly  to the sheet on a flat board and make sure it is not going to move, then use a 5mm drill to put the holes in and a 7mm for the 3 5/16ths holes, draw round the case and cut out . be careful cutting the inner out.. when fitting be gentle on the screws and leave for a day then you will find they will nip up a bit more , don't over tighten and split it. ps make sure when drilling the holes it is clamped tighter than your wallet

Just found some oil resistent nitrile sheet (2mm) for about a tenner - what do you reckon?

[berger]

yes and if your cush nut comes undone it has further to travel than with a paper gasket.

[Worty]

yes and if your cush nut comes undone it has further to travel than with a paper gasket.

Best make it 5mm then eh

[berger]

i finally gave my head a shake at about 4 oclock this afternoon after my 12 hour sesh yesterday the T piece on urma yondas carbs had decided to let petrol flow out from the o ring seals. reading about separating these 4 carbs scared me but i thought if i just take the end one off i can put new o rings in and hope the rest of the carbs don't leak. so i attacked it. you have to file the splayed ends off the screws that hold the chokes on and get the screws out then carefully pull away the end carb, anyway touch wood or whatever they now don't leak and can go back on urma so i can have playtime

[Worty]

Had a tootle around on the Kwaka a few days ago (around 100m) on the lovely roads near Bergs - east side of the Peaks.  When I got back, there was a bit of brake fluid at the bottom of the caliper (thought I'd fixed that with cleaned up pistons and new seals).   It's better than it was as previously you could see a thin spurt of brake fluid on application of the brake and no fluid in the reservoir.   I even replaced the master cylinder seals whilst I was at it.

Anyway, I bought a very good s/h caliper off a W800 that had only done 10k miles some time ago as a spare (£35), so I'll fit that and see what happens.  I thought, I'll give the other caliper a good service with some nice, shiny new stainless pistons and new seals (again) to see if I can cure the leakage issues (original pistons weren't great).  Anyhow, picked a seller on Ebay who was selling the 30mm diameter pistons for a good price, but he advised that the actual diameter was 29.96-20.98mm actual diameter and would probably leak.  As it turns out, 30mm is the same diameter as the seals, so I looked further.  In actual fact, the piston diameter is 30.2mm, and not 30mm at all, it's just listed as 30mm to confuse people like me who like accuracy.

[Worty]

Whipped the old caliper off the Kwaka and chucked the 'new' one on.  Looks very good, bled out fine (nice, firm lever), and appears not to leak.  Popped out the pistons on the old caliper and measured them - given the over-read on one micrometer and under-read on the other - 30.2mm is correct.  Cleaned out the seal grooves on the old caliper with the small wire brush on the 'dremel', ready to accept the s/s items.  Pistons don't seem too bad on inspection, but will replace anyway.  Was expecting the pistons to be a bit tighter in the caliper against the seals - not surprised they leaked but the seals were new???

[berger]

worty brake fluid is wicked man! the slightest scratch or bit of muck and it will find it's way out. it's a bit like me tomorrow i will be finding my way out to the pub again because i have had a good day on the berglar build and urma yonda  things

[Worty]

worty brake fluid is wicked man! the slightest scratch or bit of muck and it will find it's way out. it's a bit like me tomorrow i will be finding my way out to the pub again because i have had a good day on the berglar build and urma yonda  things

Livin' the dream Bergs

[Angus]

I thought I would take the A10 to the touring week in Weymouth. So did some prep, checked gearbox, primary and fork oil levels and both chain tensions. Adjusted rear brake. She had done 120 miles on Thursday and a couple of miles that morning. Anyway I started her and she did her dump of engine oil out of the breather trick. She has done it before (see earlier posts), 4 times in total in the seven years I have owned her and I have never found the cause. I cleaned up the oil and gathered tools to have another look, started her up to see flow from breather and she had stopped doing it. Now do I take her or not 

[Worty]

I thought I would take the A10 to the touring week in Weymouth. So did some prep, checked gearbox, primary and fork oil levels and both chain tensions. Adjusted rear brake. She had done 120 miles on Thursday and a couple of miles that morning. Anyway I started her and she did her dump of engine oil out of the breather trick. She has done it before (see earlier posts), 4 times in total in the seven years I have owned her and I have never found the cause. I cleaned up the oil and gathered tools to have another look, started her up to see flow from breather and she had stopped doing it. Now do I take her or not 

Go for it Angus - just make sure your breakdown cover is up to date (including older, non-MoT vehicles), and you have a few litres of oil strapped to the pillion.

[groily]

Depression I mentioned in the thread about electronic sparks is lifting gradually. So a couple of pix of 'what I am doing with my bikes'.
Split oil pipe caused the inevitable on my favourite 650 AJS. A first for me as haven't ever had that happen before, but there we go.

Damage limited to crank really, with some scuffing and very light scoring on piston thrust faces below the rings. Will clean and reuse as rings and lands unsmeared and bores not marked at all luckily and an easy 'replace' later if there's any smoke. Rod will clean up I hope - at the price of Thunders. But I have a spare new pair, worst case. Also have a spare brand new crank, but don't want to use that on this engine as it would need dynamically balancing etc to be as smooth as the one in the pic. Idea was to build a spare, but haven't got the right 650 dynamo-version crankcases to do that at the mo.

Oil pumps clean and no damage, very little debris anywhere, but crank oilways full of cooled-down molten, as you'd expect.
Got away lightly really, and should be running again in a couple of months or so, after getting the crank over to T&L in Beds when I can.
Will also take the opportunity to have slight damage to drive side case repaired, where a broken chain flailed during a Good Thrashing and took out a cast boss which retains the inner primary; and will also replace the ex valves, which have a light case of Black Spot like broad beans which won't come out without too severe a grind, although the seats and guides are immaculate.

Bloody irritating though, as was all booked up to go to Spain this month with that machine for a few days with the MC Pistons guys in Cantabria. Shall have to take my Norton instead  . . . not such a trial, but the AMC is more comfortable and goes just as well - even if it doesn't stop too brilliantly compared to the TLS on the Notrun.

Life, huh!

[limeyrob]

You got away very lightly. That could have been a rod though the case. You must have been very quick on the clutch!

[Worty]

BUGGA

[Colsbeeza]

What a bugga Bill -  big dollars??.  I patted the BSA today as I passed. Taking it on the DGR on 19th May. I did clean back and spray paint (at least I undercoated it) the battery box of my Lilac. The old one had been cut down somewhat so I got a used one. I have to get it fitted before I can put the rear wheel back in.
Col

[limeyrob]

Using a Dremel to remove a pocket lip around the valve seats. Been putting this off for ages for fear of screwing it up. They did some web searches and someone who done it said -"don't forget to put an old valve in to protect the seats" DOH, should have thought of that, thankyou web.  So with an old valve in I could use that as a rest / guide and go around and just chamfer the step a bit.
Bike is not going to be used hard so its not really necessary but it was annoying me.
Clean up and valve springs next.
Rewired it over last week, forgot how much I hate wiring, it must have taken 15-20 hours. I made up my own LED 6v indicators and I've got them fitted and working but that added hours and hours.  So called "LED" flasher unit will only flash with LEDs if there's one filament bulb in circuit (working that out wasted a good hour or two) so I put an warning light in and 2 diodes, sorted.  At the moment its in the steering lock hole while I think of a better place.