Clutch actuating lever on the gearbox

[bsa-bill]

I need to measure my clutch pushrod but think it's right, possible a new clutch cable is too long (all adjustment used) so I thought of adjusting the position of the pushrod screw adjuster in the gearbox, (the thing with the locknut and small ball bearing in it) I think I recall it's on a spline on the lever.
Now I fancy having a go at moving it without taking the gearbox  cover off, if I fail and something falls in the box well then the cover will have to come off.
So I'm asking if anyone has attempted this, and if so did you succeed

(ever the opsomist)

[Bsareg]

If you move it on the splines,it may not contact the push rod correctly. It should contact at right angle at or just before full lift.

[LJ.]

Surely you have one of those telescopic magnetic pens in your workshop for when the split pin or nut falls?

[duTch]

 Bill, I think I tried to do that but wouldn't happen- I think something to do with the split-pin....and I agree with B-reg, although more important to have the internal adjuster arm square to the rod.  If you just want to measure the rod, I'm sure you're aware it'll slide out through the arm after removing the adjuster screw.

 I also agree with the magnet-on-a-stick....trouble is they invariably latch on to things I don't want'm to...

[coater87]

 Bill,

 Tried it about a month ago. The problem for me came with trying to get the nut back on. But first, there was getting the nut off without dropping it, getting the split pin out without dropping it....etc. etc.

 Just take the cover off and save a lot of time and frustration

 Nice, the "P" on my keyboard has decided to poop the bed if you dont pound on it.

 Lee

[RichardL]

Bill,

I don't see much use in measuring the pushrod. If it's too short, pull it out, cut it in half, put a 1/4" ball in the middle, then cut off the excess from one of the halves.

Richard L.

[bsa-bill]

Thanks guys
Pushrod is 11.5 inch as should be, the magnetic telescopic rod is a godsend, also very useful for removing clutch plates.

Now I think there is more to this, I had an SRM pressure plate installed, I needed to remove the clutch which I did but when I came to put it back together again I'm damned if I could get the spring nuts back on, too much pressure needed to compress the spring and get the nut started.
I had 6 plain and 5 friction plates in it, worked great and can't recall much difficulty put it on on.
Anyway I gave up and put on the original BSA tin pressure plate back on with 4 friction and 5 plain plates, new clutch cable and original pushrod, when all are together the pushrod just pokes out of the gearbox end by about a couple of mil, also the clutch doesn't grip even with the nuts having  a good 1/4 of an inch or more of thread through and the spring well inside their cup.
primary chain is parallel with chain case top edge but it seems like the clutch needs to go further on the mainshaft, can't think what would prevent it being fully on.
Looks like it's got to come off again.
Anyone know what space there should be between the chain wheel and the inner primary case, I can get my finger in ?

[chaterlea25]

Hi Bill,

I can get my finger in ?

Something wrong there I believe, 
Normally the chain is quite close to the rear case

You have me confused about the SRM pressure plate ?
The SRM unit has tha screwed adjuster in the pressure plate and the radial needle roller bearing, plus the pusher that acts on the thrust bearing
Fitting all this  means that the original pushrod has to be shortened 

Anyway Maybe I can claim a little victory in answer to your earlier question 
in that I did move the widget on the clutch arm without dropping anything into the box

John

[morris]

Dismantling the lever without taking the cover off can be done but needs lean fingers, good quality long nose pliers and no hurry...
Distance from clutch to primary should be about 1/4”. Do the sprockets line up? That’ll probably tell you more about the clutch position.
Getting the nuts to grip the studs needs a hefty push with the SRM plate on! Seems like the SRM plate is more domed. I have 6 plain and 5 friction plates in and remember having a hard time catching the first turn of thread.
Don’t remember the exact distance but from memory I’d say that  the pushrod should stick out by at least 6 to 8 mil.

[bsa-bill]

The SRM unit has tha screwed adjuster in the pressure plate and the radial needle roller bearing, plus the pusher that acts on the thrust bearing
Fitting all this  means that the original pushrod has to be shortened 

Yep,John I have a shortened pushrog for the SRM . this pushrod is standard 11.5 inch
 

the pushrod should stick out by at least 6 to 8 mil.

It's well short of that, something is amiss

in that I did move the widget on the clutch arm without dropping anything into the box

Well done, but now don't think that's the problem, and I'm not exactly calm and serene at the mo

Thanks guys - it's got to come off, the push rod not coming through enough is the the tell tale, busy with other stuff tomorrow, Wednesday and Thursday but I'll let you know what I find

[RogerSB]

Hi Bill, Last year I fitted a SRM 4-spring and had to shorten my pushrod. I'm kicking myself because before putting everything back together again I didn't think to measure it.

However I did make notes for myself of how to get the correct length (based on SRMs instructions) and I've attached a pic of it here in case its of any help.

At the same time I had to move the operating arm on the spline slightly. The outer cover was off but even then I still had some difficulty getting the tiny split pin in the tiny holes. I don't think I could have done it with the cover on.

[duTch]

 Roger;
 

.. Last year I fitted a SRM 4-spring and had to shorten my pushrod. I'm kicking myself because before putting everything back together again I didn't think to measure it.........

 From my earlier reply #3;
 

......If you just want to measure the rod, I'm sure you're aware it'll slide out through the arm after removing the adjuster screw...

[bsa-bill]

HI guys , the rod I'm using on this standard 4 spring clutch is the standard 11.5 inch rod.
The actuating arm is no longer the main issue as the rod when pushed through and into the tin pressure plate only shows through into the gearbox by a couple of mill at most, this coupled with the extreme difficulty of starting the spring screws when the SRM clutch was in makes me think that something has prevented the clutch going far enough on the drive shaft.  ( I'm thinking about the key )
only one way to find out - hey ho

[bsa-bill]

HI guys , the rod I'm using on this standard 4 spring clutch is the standard 11.5 inch rod.

And thats the problem I need the 11.13/16 one, ordered from Polly Palmer this afternoon.
I had forgotten or did not know of this longer pushrod, never had cause to buy one, just cut the existing one down for srm clutch.
and my other alloy pressure plate just uses the old pushrod.

Sorry to take your time up and thanks for your replies, might be  useful for someone in the future

[RichardL]

I don't get it. 10 minutes of labor and an old ball bearing from your junk collection (old steering head set) and you would already be back on the road.

Richard L.