SRM clutch

[RogerSB]

My G/Flash, being 1960, has the two part combined drain and level plug that screws into the bottom of the chaincase. That's what I was referring to re fibre washers etc. Sorry Brian, I didn't clock that your bike was 1955 and will have separate drain and level screws in the bottom run of fixing screws. If your A10 is a swinging arm it'll still hold 225cc of oil and it'll be at that level when it stops running out of the level screw hole.

[BrianS]

Hi Roger. 
I may have got a later cover as I have the two-piece level plug as well ;-)
Brian

[RogerSB]

Hi Brian, yes you'll have the later cover then. To drain off any overfilled oil you just remove the small nut only. When the oil level inside the chaincase gets to the same height as the top of the tube it'll stop running out and that means the oil level is correct. Undo the big nut to remove the whole plug if you want to drain all the oil out.

(Edit): Gary obviously assumed you had the earlier chaincase.
Also Brian your tube looks a bit short to me (I may be wrong). From memory it should be 7/8", but I'd  check it by measuring 8 fl oz (225 cc) in a measuring jug and pour it in through the inspection cover, remove the small nut on the plug and catch any oil that runs out (on level ground and on main stand). If its a lot it'll prove the tube is too short. Then you can pour the oil back in and you'll know your level is correct and whether the tube is the correct length, or not.

(Edit, edit):- Here's something to consider  :_
https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=10861.msg81435#msg81435

[duTch]

 For what it's worth, if you look down through the inspection hole the oil-level-boss and oil can be easily seen, so no real need to undo the screw and make a mess- principle is no different to the Plunger models like mine and close enough is good enough (a bright light is needed, I shine sun in via a small mirror )

 This also helps for just checking it periodically for level, and I need to add a bit regularly- it must evaporate

[KeithJ]

Replaced my Triumph 4 spring type clutch which has been on the bike for about 50 years with a new SRM one.

The new clutch has been problematic.  Have tried various grades of oil and get about 600 miles or so before it starts to slip.  Have just adjusted it again and note I have to screw the clutch nuts in much more than SRM suggests. 

Will be interesting to see if my clutch has bedded in or starts to slip again.  i wonder if I have the wrong cups and springs or perhaps the plates have been contaminated.  Time will tell.

Thinking of putting the old plates back in with their cups and springs.

Just my experience.

Did you get your SRM clutch sorted Keith and, if so, what was the cause of the re-occurrence of the slipping please?  I have the same symptoms unfortunately 

Doesn't time fly.  My clutch has started to slip again.  Just replaced the oil in the primary side so perhaps that has something to do with it. 

[BrianS]

Can't recall if I said but after another occurrence of the dreaded clutch slip, I bought a new set of friction plates, cut the shaft in half and put a ball bearing between the two halves and, so far, no slippage......

[KeithJ]

Can't recall if I said but after another occurrence of the dreaded clutch slip, I bought a new set of friction plates, cut the shaft in half and put a ball bearing between the two halves and, so far, no slippage......

Glad it is working for you, how many miles have you done with this mod? 

[BrianS]

About 500 miles - forgot to note mileage :-(

[KeithJ]

About 500 miles - forgot to note mileage :-(

Not sure how many miles I've done, probably over a 1000.  Fingers crossed for you.  I have an electric starter fitted and that adds to the conundrum about type of oil and quantity!  KBO.

[chaterlea25]

Hi Keith,
Was there a recommendation for the amount / grade of oil from the starter supplier? I am assuming it came from Steve McFarlane ?
The slipping clutch could easily be down to the type of oil you changed to ?

I saw a topic on Britbike where a Goldie owner was suffering from oil leaks after fitting a Pearson clutch, and adding the recommended 400ml of oil, as the Suzuki plates need to be kept in oil ?

I am curious to find out what will work as I am very likely to be going down the electric leg and Suzuki based clutch route soon

John

[KeithJ]

Hi Keith,
Was there a recommendation for the amount / grade of oil from the starter supplier? I am assuming it came from Steve McFarlane ?
The slipping clutch could easily be down to the type of oil you changed to ?

I saw a topic on Britbike where a Goldie owner was suffering from oil leaks after fitting a Pearson clutch, and adding the recommended 400ml of oil, as the Suzuki plates need to be kept in oil ?

I am curious to find out what will work as I am very likely to be going down the electric leg and Suzuki based clutch route soon

John

Steve's says ATF fluid with his starter, SRM say to use monograde engine oil with their clutch.  With my original clutch, I've used ATF, Mono and Multigrade with no issues.  Have also had to screw the clutch springs in much further than SRM say.    Be interesting to see what is going on when I take it apart.

[Triton Thrasher]

Are SRM plates Surflex?

I had so much slipping under power with Surflex plates (in a Tony Hayward belt kit) with a dark friction lining material, that I could not understand why other people weren’t having the same problems. 

As soon as any oil, of any kind or grade, got onto the plates, they slipped like Hell.

Removing the lining material (surprisingly easy with a penknife) and gluing cork mat in its place, put a stop to all slipping. The spring adjuster nuts are now backed well off, for a light action.

[RDfella]

If you want oil in your primary, then cork plates are the answer (thought they were only to be found on some old clutch baskets, not individual plates) because friction is virtually unaffected by oil. In fact, cork plates shouldn't be run dry. Old two strokes (eg Villiers) had cork clutches and no problem (apart from leaks) with oil in primary.

[KeithJ]

Took to clutch apart.  All looked good, some oil on the plates but just looked normal to me.  Someone suggested both types of plates may be glazed.  So have cleaned them and given them a light "roughen" with emery cloth.  Now deciding between straight SAE20 or ATF Type F.  Have ordered both but think I will try the SAE20 mineral monograde first.  Back up plan is to try some super friction plates from a Triumph spares company  like LP Willams.  Fingers crossed.

[JulianS]

I have found there is just enough space to fit 6 bonded plates plus one extra plain plate from a 7 plate conversion in the SRM clutch. These plates appear to have some bronze in the bonded material.

If you use an alloy chainwheel and remove the lip from the centre drum you can fit all 7 plates of the conversion.

Photo shows Aerco plate compared with Surflex.