SRM clutch

[ellis]

As I have said in previous posts SRM recommend 190cc of oil in the chain case and no more.   

ELLIS

[RogerSB]

As I have said in previous posts SRM recommend 190cc of oil in the chain case and no more.   
ELLIS

Yes, they do Ellis, but my suggestion was a way for Brian to find out if his level tube is the correct length (without having to know what its length should be). He will have to fill it with BSAs recommended quantity of 8 fl oz to do that. Easy enough to drain it out and put back what he wants.

However, I've always put in 8 fl oz and I've not had a problem. I have SAE 20 mineral oil in the chaincase as recommended by SRM.

[BrianS]

Me again Brian, I've amended my chaincase diagram to indicate the dowel positions by blue circles.

That's brilliant. Not only has it showed me I have a dowel missing but, when I checked my bolts, I have all the right sizes but not in the right places! (Shades of Andrew Preview for those old enough to remember that M&W sketch)  Did the swap over and all good now. I guess the threaded section in the crankcase for the S bolts must be forgiving enough to allow the M bolts to fit as I wasn't aware any were binding.

I am pretty sure I got 'em right now - photo is of the reverse of the bolts so opposite way around to the diagram of course 

I seem to have accumulated some spare gaskets so will use them first but may well try your Hylomar technique!

I have a problem with the clutch lever in that to get it at 90 degrees I have more slack cable than, ideally, I can take up with the adjuster. I may not have shortened the internal pushrod sufficiently when I fitted the SRM clutch unit - at least that's what I hope rather than have cut it too short!

I will go with what SRM recommend as far as quantity of oil but that seems to leave the chain hanging even further away from the oil. But we gotta assume SRM know what they are talking about having done the R&D.

EDIT1: I have searched the fiche on the Draganfly site in vain and can't find the page that includes the dowels to get a part number. Can anyone help please?

EDIT2: I went to bed thinking of my GF clutch! I realise now that I am being daft and that the length of the pushrod has b*gger all to do with the slack on the clutch cable! So I need to work out what to do as, when the clutch arm is at 90 degrees, the adjuster on the gearbox would have to be right out to take up the slack. No adjuster at the lever. Surely a cable wouldn't have stretched that much over the years?  I see that a new cable is nearly £30 with p&p but am wondering how hard it would be to shorten the existing cable and re-solder one of the ends (but which one?)? If I have to buy new, can anyone recommend a quality item please as I know from similar purchases in the past that cables can be variable. Advice appreciated - as usual!

[JulianS]

Below from the factory parts book - 66 3074

[BrianS]

An 8mm dowel from a TTR250 camshaft cap will do the trick so at least I won't be held up by a missing dowel - just the cable and adjuster to sort out now 

[bsa-bill]

dowel posts came just a tad too late for me, I have no dowels whatsoever on the primary case, don't think I'm taking it off again to check or fit tho 

[BrianS]

Getting there but another question on clutch adjustment!

I can't find anything in the Haynes manual or the BSA Instruction Manual that says what play (if any) there should be at the gearbox-end lever. Should it be tight up against push rod or just a small amount of clearance please?

I think my lever is slightly offset as it doesn't set at 90 degrees to the gearbox case when its adjusting screw and nut are parallel to the case. If the lever is at 90 degrees then the screw is at an angle to the push rod. Does that make sense? 

[bsa-bill]

Should it be tight up against push rod or just a small amount of clearance please?

Clutch will warm up with use ( which is why neutral sometimes gets hard to find) so if you set it up with no play then then clutch rod will bear on the pressure plate and the actuating arm will also be in contact with the pushrod, everything will be touching - not good.
Allow what clearance you think is right, then stop after a good distance and check, easy enough to give a bit more at the lever

[RogerSB]

Hi Brian,
Mine was the same. You can reposition it on the splines after removing the cover, split pin and nut (see pic).
Adjust the adjuster at gearbox so there's some free play between the ball bearing and the end of the pushrod when its up against the clutch pusher at the other end. It will also affect free play at the handlebar control lever.
I like to have a good 1/8" free play at lever - for me it feels more comfortable to operate).

[chaterlea25]

Hi All,
Brian and anyone else with the SRM pressure plate
You can adust the pushrod length (within limits) with  the adjuster on the pressure plate
A clutch slippage problem can arise when the SRM "pusher" butts up against the end of the gearbox mainshaft (or nut)
(this can happen if the pushrod was cut a bit short) in this case  pushrod free play may be still "look OK" but there is no play at the clutch end

John

[bsa-bill]

You can adjust the pushrod length (within limits) with  the adjuster on the pressure plate

I wondered about that seeing a screwdriver slot in the end of the stud, however decided not to alter it due to nothing in the instructions I could recall.
Although my SRM pressure plate is I reckon an early one, it has a rough cast finish and SRM Devimead cast in to it

[chaterlea25]

Hi Bill,

Although my SRM pressure plate is I reckon an early one, it has a rough cast finish and SRM Devimead cast in to it

That's the same as the one in my SR
I have fitted several of the later machined ones to other bikes
I have bought the adjusters bearings and pusher's as spares and adapted the bearing arrangement into other make pressure plates with success 

John

[bsa-bill]

I have bought the adjusters bearings and pusher's as spares and adapted the bearing arrangement into other make pressure plates with success  *smile*John

interesting - my other bike has an alloy pressure plate from (IIRC) Lightning spares (are they still around or do I remember some one taking there stuff over?)

[duTch]

 

.........Lightning spares (are they still around or do I remember some one taking there stuff over?)

 Fairly sure that Draganfly bought them out

[JulianS]

Machined alloy, non SRM, pressure plates are listed in the 2013 wassel catalogue, probably still in the new one so I suspect most dealers sell them.