Spark plugs

[Billybream]

Years ago N3 was always first choice in the UK and recommended by BSA, but choice then was limited.
I.ve tried various other manufacturers and are using NIK B6ES which are currently recommended  by SRM.

[RogerSB]

1960 GF (so iron head). Earlier last year I was using NGK B6HS but they were fouling regularly and then I had one that failed completely so I changed to Champion L82C (modern version of  L7 I believe). Still using those same plugs today and never had a problem since. That's until yesterday when out for a ride with my wife as pillion and we left the bike parked for about 10-15 minutes and when we returned it wouldn't start. Kick, kick, kick, curse, curse, no good. Thought first thing to do is remove the plugs, give it a few kicks to clear the fuel and try again. Luckily I carry tools and a few essential spares in the tool box so I set about removing the nearside plug, the plug looked fine. Went to remove the offside one and the plug cap was just resting on the top of the plug. I think it may have been someones idea of a bit of fun . Put my tools away and bike fired on the first kick .

[duTch]

 I needed new plugs (longish stories, and lucky there was a pub on the way), and was looking at the NGK site;
 
 https://www.ngk.com.au/products/spark-plugs/

 ...and spotted the 'Firing and Construction' column so decided I'll try the B6EY / BP6EY instead of the standard B6ES/BP6ES- has anyone used these, and if so what outcome?

[berger]

 I needed new plugs (longish stories, and lucky there was a pub on the way),

I use B7es and pubs , so today I will be mainly having a slurp now another year has passed [TIME FLYS] cheers everyone

[duTch]

 Weeel Happy Days- what a crazy coincidence, it just so happens this side of the globe (or for flat-earthers, 'the slab') is back in the same place as it was a whole year ago too....how time flies, seems like it hasn't even mooooved... (mysteries of the Universe)

 So Story #2 goes like so;  headed out on the Gutzzly Sat. morn but by the end of the block started misfiring ...only had to go another block and back (in the actual RAIN- no brolly), figured it'd kick in, but no avail...on return pulled the caps before shutdown, left faltered when I pulled that (to be expected), RHS no change *except* when the cap was just close enough but not solid, it started to fire as per normal  (NGK resistor caps)....not BSA, but curious why so that's where the BP6EY plugs went, and headed out for a test yesterday (Still actual RAIN), and after about a mile faltered and died altogether.....and the battery slowly drained- not so hard to bump-start- but to no avail ...then I figured probably run better if I turn the fuel on ....
  Story #1 was the Beeza Friday- left work, but only about a mile or so started running rough again, and then completely died....so only a couple of small uphills, but mostly downhill or flat back to the ranch, started pushing, then fortuitously had to pass by the hipster pub (needed a *** and it had just started drizzling, but shitty boutique beer in a brandy style glass - the only other time I called in was served by a girl I know)
 
 Still working on that, but stuck a meter on the plugs to find open circuit (infinite resistance)- hence the foray to the NGK www.
  (been erratic idle for a while, but checked points/timing/valve-lash/pickup/earth brushes a couple weeks ago)

 

[kiwipom]

 

[BSA_54A10]

 I needed new plugs (longish stories, and lucky there was a pub on the way), and was looking at the NGK site;
 
 https://www.ngk.com.au/products/spark-plugs/

 ...and spotted the 'Firing and Construction' column so decided I'll try the B6EY / BP6EY instead of the standard B6ES/BP6ES- has anyone used these, and if so what outcome?

I use BP6HS or BP7HS with no problems.
NGK std electrodes sit a little deeper that champions so they are more prone the shielding and fouling.
Even then , until the engine is really full hot ( 15 minutes + ) if the bike has to be stopped, it is turn the fuel off & starve the engine off.
Otherwise the slop we get here will leave a conducting  coating over the center electrode.
The Y plugs just have a V shaped ground electrode and were designed for hard to ignite fuels like methanol or LPG.

[duTch]

 

.....The Y plugs just have a V shaped ground electrode and were designed for hard to ignite fuels like methanol or LPG..

 Yep that's the kind of info I was after.... was no B*EY readily available so will try the 'P' types again- the standards are what I usually run in the Gutzzly and work fine when I remember to feed it go-juice 
 Has anyone actually used them ?

[Black Sheep]

I use NGK B7ES or B6HS depending on the bike. No probs. Most recent ignition problem - misfiring, lost tickover - was traced to the HT leads coming away from the plug caps. HT cable was bought through VMCC so presumably Wassell. The HT leads had rusted. Rusting copper??? Something wrong there.
Replaced with proper copper leads from the Green Spark Plug Company.
The other thing to check is soft carbon brushes. Can cause lots of problems as they wear down to nothing and coat the slip ring with nice conducting carbon.

[duTch]

 I forgot to say I went to the NGK page after I read this after a search (didn't realize initially that it's a car page, but same-same enough);
 http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/plugs/index.html

 So my short question was intended as 'Has anyone tried NGK plugs with grooved tips ie; B*EY/BP*EY ', and if so how was the experience ?

  Thanks BlaSh, I already did most of the above but it's been raining for a few days so can't really do successful testing, and don't want to hijack the topic with diagnostics ... ...and the Gutzzly works when I remember....

 I wasn't going to bother with the background crappy stories- just one two of those 'had to be there' type situations

[Greybeard]

For good or ill, I bought some new old stock Lodge plugs online. I declag them on my wire brush. They work for me.

[berger]

dutch bit off topic but, mysteries of the universe is a phone call I have just received off the guy who sold me the bike 40 yrs ago, we were pondering how we've made it to 59 years old within 10 days of each other, taking into account I conked out 8 yrs ago [ no spark]. I must be running with petrol turned on and hot tip plugs. right off to celebrate black and tans to be consumed

[bikerbob]

 I was told a few years ago by someone who sells and restores classic bikes that you must never clean modern plugs with a wire brush because the white ceramic part is now not glazed and the wire brush contaminates it. Befor this I did use to clean with a wire brush and did have problems with some plugs namely NGK but since I now clean my plugs with compressed air grit cleaner which I bought from Machine Mart I have never had any misfiring plugs.

[Greybeard]

I was told a few years ago by someone who sells and restores classic bikes that you must never clean modern plugs with a wire brush...

The plugs I'm using are deffo not modern, so I feel ok about wire-brushing them.

[BSA_54A10]

I was told a few years ago by someone who sells and restores classic bikes that you must never clean modern plugs with a wire brush because the white ceramic part is now not glazed and the wire brush contaminates it. Befor this I did use to clean with a wire brush and did have problems with some plugs namely NGK but since I now clean my plugs with compressed air grit cleaner which I bought from Machine Mart I have never had any misfiring plugs.

Yes, that is correct.
The easy qay to keep them clean all you have to do is starve the engine off.
As the carb runs out of fuel it will burn very lean and clean all of the crud off the plugs.