Wet sumping

[BSA500]

I actually have the engine in pieces and everything is fine. It's in pieces for a floppy big end but it had play when I built it. The was plenty of oil in the crank and no signs of picking up or damage. Just call me jammy

[duTch]

 (You are) 'jammy '

  *edited*

[BSA500]

Thanks it could have been a horrible mess

[berger]

nicely bsa 500 you are as jammy as me when idiot me put oil pipes on wrong way but filled tank above return hole, me and bike could have been deaded at 80mph on busy duel carriageway

[BSA500]

Yep you win a jammy award as well

[Colsbeeza]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I'd like some opinions.
I have not had a wet sumping issue, but since I have the crankcase apart I thought it silly not to check the ball & seat. I have a new ball and seat, so may as well replace them if needed.
So I removed the Ball & Seat this week, and attach a photo of the seat. AFAIK it has never been apart since new.
The ball and spring look good, but the seat doesn't. It is quite pitted, or corroded unevenly.
I want to grind it in by Greybeard's method ie. epoxy a ball onto a tube and grind it in, but it looks a bit too rough. I think I need to cut a new seat first, and ask for suggestions. It could be so easy to stuff it up.
A further complication is that the seat hole does not seem to be concentric with the oil passage, so I cannot use the oil passage as a drill guide. My thinking is that the best seat angle is about 45 Deg. So I think I should select the right drill size - about 6mm seems right, then fit a collar to the drill to prevent the drill from descending more than 10-15 thou. I don't think that the drill needs to be absolutely vertical, so by eye should be adequate.
Any comments welcome.
Col

[chaterlea25]

Hi Col,
I would take the opportunity to modify the setup to the way A65's are done so the balk sits against the rear face of the pump
I posted the details and measurements a few months ago
John

[duTch]

 Col- what's the g-o with the bush? There's no thrust face....

[berger]

hello dutch I am going to the pub it looks like a steel backed bush jobby maybe sort of

[duTch]

 

ello dutch I am going to the pub it looks like a steel backed bush jobby maybe sort of

 Maybe my eyes, but looks brass to me, but may be the light- wouldn't a pegged steel back stay as part the brass bush?....maybe I need Pub too      

[berger]

I will get to the pub, dutch yes pegged bronze bush in steel back with scoreing marks me thinks

[RDfella]

On the singles, BSA suggest putting a ball bearing in situ and giving it a sharp smack with (an appropriately sized) hammer & drift. Same applies here, though if it's so bad that won't do it, then I'd follow advice from Chaterlea & convert to A65 system. That way, you can easily re-visit the situation. Otherwise, it's a drill re-profiled to 45* as you say, and preferably turned by hand with something suitable to grip it.

[coater87]

 Nope, not me.

 I am smacking that with the old ball and a punch, than I will lap it in.

 Way to easy to screw this up with a drill motor and eyeball.

 And if your feeling queezy about the smacking, skip that too. You can hand lap the whole thing in perfectly. It will just take a few extra minutes.

 Lee

[Greybeard]

I want to grind it in by Greybeard's method ie. epoxy a ball onto a tube and grind it in

Not guilty. I just gave the ball a light tap.

[chaterlea25]

Hi All,
I replied earlier using my phone and did not notice the "elephant in the room" 
the "missing" bush flange 
I wonder is there a ball bearing fitted to the drive side ?? otherwise remedial work is needed 

I did a search and found the post with the dimensions and details of the A65 ball position mod
This has the HUGE advantage of being able to be serviced without an engine strip 
Its a simple job when the cases are apart

https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=13668.msg111568;topicseen#msg111568

John