Sump Gasket

[KiwiGF]

I thought the scavenge pipe was glued into the case? Well mine was anyway. My engineer removed it (I was rather surprised at this!) so he could machine the sump faces flat (he was making mis matched cases fit together for me). He thought it had been glued in with something like araldite, which softened when he heated it, so it was not a big deal to remove.

His advice was to replace it using loctite, I used green/permanent grade, after fitting a new sump gauze to help line it up. This loctite grade also softens when heated. It’s used for retaining bearings.

If your scavenge pipe is “loose” it might be a good idea to glue it with loctite. Even threadlocker would probably work.

If it’s too tight to move then rather than bend it might respond to being heated up, depending on what has been used.

[duTch]

 

Also, could someone please share a photo of their oil non return valve. I am debating whether to fit one.....

Plenty of ideas in other threads ;


 

.... or..

    /
 

... whether to just start the bike every fortnight

 

 Or as I've suggested a few times, if you know you won't be riding it for longer than it takes for the oil level to leak down to an unacceptable level, either start it as you suggest,  or just drain it into a container (the old oil bottle should work a treat), and refill it when you need to go riding.
 That probably takes less time than fu-stuffing around with any other dumbarse idea like evedraining the sump .
 The way I see it, if it's reasonably fresh oil, any crap can settle to the bottom of the container  over a few weeks and/ or you can run it through a filter like even a rag back into the tank when you need it.
 
 

 

[Butch (cb)]

Barleycorn made me up some longer studs in stainless for mine.

[LynnLegend]

Hi all,

Have fitted my new sump plate this morning - moving the scavenge pipe was a pain, ended up moving it sideways by putting a ring spanner on it and hitting the end of the spanner with a hammer - I don't have any drifts and I couldn't get the result I wanted with an Alan key.

My studs are a little on the short side, the studs sit about level with the outer edge of the nut, so I may buy some longer studs, or just forget about it and hope it doesn't come back to haunt me. I was disappointed by how much oil had leaked in only a week (perhaps 1/2 - 3/4 of a pint) but I'm not too concerned now I can drain it easily.

Thanks all of you for your assistance with this.

Sam.

[A10 JWO]

I fitted SRM sump when I had wet sumping. I fitted a quick release oil drain from a rally car, this allowed me to very quickly drain the excess into a Chinese take away box. I was later to fit a SRM oil pump. I think there was a thread on here about three years ago about my conversion.

[Rex]

Am I getting this right? People are bending the scavenge pipe to fit the hole in the gauze filter? On my old C12 I used some brass gauze (bought for petrol tank filters from Ebay) and soldered a copper washer to it to stop the pick-up hole fraying in use. Done, as the original gauze item was missing.
The sump plate was assembled to the bottom of the engine and the gauze trimmed to fit.
Less brutal than trying to bend sixty-year old steel pipe....

[muskrat]

G'day Rex, I like your way of thinking.
On both of mine the filter plate fitted nice without any "adjustment" of the pipe. If it had I would prefer your method to belting it  .
Cheers