Clutch lever setting

[duTch]

 

Mine is not worn, just cosmetics. 

 Not just cosmetics- an arm bent like that will also affect the angle of the pushrod adjuster, which can be obviously adjusted but not without affecting the cable adjustment..... which comes back tho the original question;
 

What position should the pushrod lever be in for new clutch plates A or B ? 

[RoyC]

Anyone got any idea where I can get a NEW or VERY GOOD clutch operating arm ?
Been looking for ages.

I had mine replated.

How bad was your leaver before you had it replated ?
Did the replating affect the splines and thread ?

I have this one but it's a little pitted.

[Greybeard]

My clutch lever was about like that. In the attached photo taken when I started the latest restoration you can see that I'd previously painted it to hide the missing chrome and rust. The platers masked the splines so they were not affected. I was lucky to find a platers in the Midlands who specialise in vehicle work. They do good work. I also had them do the plunger shrouds, petrol tank, kick start and gear levers. I don't think they have a website. Here are their details.

[RoyC]

Thanks for that Steve.
Did they get rid of the pitting or just chrome over it ?
I used to live and work near Walsall.
Roy.

[RogerSB]

Mine is not worn, just cosmetics. 

Roy, not sure if this is possible but couldn't you take it to an engineering firm to get it straightened?


And duTch is dead right - it'll effect your adjustment bent like that.

[RoyC]

Mine is not worn, just cosmetics. 

Roy, not sure if this is possible but couldn't you take it to an engineering firm to get it straightened?

It's not worth straightening because the finnish is not up to scratch.
I've got oxy and a big hammer. 

[RogerSB]

Found one here:-


Pt. No. 67-3180.


https://www.ebay.fr/itm/BSA-A10-A7-B33-B31-54-62-Getriebe-gearbox-67-3180-65-3360-lever-hebel-kuppl-zug/173039047939?hash=item2849ee5503:g:tWQAAOSw0A9aN8GU

It's a German eBay site. Immediate purchase price 23.80 Euros (£21.00 according to currency exchange). Postage to Royaume uni (that's UK) is 18.00 Euros (=15.93). So a total of £38.00.


Looks ok and description when translated says it's in good condition.


Having said that Dragonfly pt. no. 67-3180 for 54-62 A& & A10 in stainless is £39.52 + pp if they have it in stock.

[RoyC]

Found one here:-


Pt. No. 67-3180.


https://www.ebay.fr/itm/BSA-A10-A7-B33-B31-54-62-Getriebe-gearbox-67-3180-65-3360-lever-hebel-kuppl-zug/173039047939?hash=item2849ee5503:g:tWQAAOSw0A9aN8GU

It's a German eBay site. Immediate purchase price 23.80 Euros (£21.00 according to currency exchange). Postage to Royaume uni (that's UK) is 18.00 Euros (=15.93). So a total of £38.00.


Looks ok and description when translated says it's in good condition.


Having said that Dragonfly pt. no. 67-3180 for 54-62 A& & A10 in stainless is £39.52 + pp if they have it in stock.

Thanks for that Roger but I already have one in better condition than that one.


Draganfly have no stock. They say that if you order this it will be put on back order.

Picture of the one that I have. I am in the process of getting it rechromed.

[Greybeard]

Roy,
I've only just remembered that when I had my gearbox overhauled the box of bits I got back contained my original clutch lever. I've just braved the cold and dug it out from my mancave. I've taken some pictures. The lever is still very good but the shaft is worn. If it's better than yours and you'd like it you can have the thing. This is from a Plunger box by the way.

[RoyC]

Roy,
I've only just remembered that when I had my gearbox overhauled the box of bits I got back contained my original clutch lever. I've just braved the cold and dug it out from my mancave. I've taken some pictures. The lever is still very good but the shaft is worn. If it's better than yours and you'd like it you can have the thing. This is from a Plunger box by the way.

The lever part is miles better than mine but that shaft is completely shot.
Does the shaft and arm separate ?
My shaft is good but the arm is rubbish.

I managed to straighten my existing bent arm with a ring spanner.

Roy.

[Greybeard]

...my original clutch lever...
...If it's better than yours and you'd like it you can have the thing.

The lever part is miles better than mine but that shaft is completely shot.

Yup. Seems I ran my gearbox dry!

Does the shaft and arm separate ?

It'd be nice if they did but I cannot see a join. Probably sweated together with braze or silver solder during construction.

Did you speak to ACF Howells? I'm pretty sure they built up with copper plating to fill rust pitting on all my parts. I know they did that for the petrol tank.

[RoyC]

...my original clutch lever...
...If it's better than yours and you'd like it you can have the thing.

The lever part is miles better than mine but that shaft is completely shot.

Yup. Seems I ran my gearbox dry!

Does the shaft and arm separate ?

It'd be nice if they did but I cannot see a join. Probably sweated together with braze or silver solder during construction.

Did you speak to ACF Howells? I'm pretty sure they built up with copper plating to fill rust pitting on all my parts. I know they did that for the petrol tank.

I got a quote back for stripping and chroming - £114 + carriage,
 I thought it was a little steep.

Thank you for your kind offer, but if I can't use it it's a waste of your time posting it.

Roy

[RoyC]

I have got my SRM clutch fitted OK.

Slight problem.
Can a stretched primary chain cause it to be tighter in one place  than in another ?
If so I will have to order another primary chain.

[RogerSB]

I managed to straighten my existing bent arm with a ring spanner.

The SRM 4 spring is a very light action compared to the 6 spring, especially if it wasn't adjusted correctly, so I would think your arm would be ok now. When it's all up together you can access it and if not 100% happy you can always revert to plan B.

[RogerSB]

Can a stretched primary chain cause it to be tighter in one place  than in another ?

Even a new chain will have tight spots but on a worn one they will be more noticeable. To test if wear is acceptable lay the chain out in a straight line and squeeze the links together to take up all the slack for 12", count the links in that 12" and measure it. Pull all 12" of those links apart and measure again. The difference is the amount of wear. If it is more than 1/4" then the chain should be replaced.


Done both my primary and rear chain when I changed my clutch to save stripping down again as both were on the border line.