Your nuts don't seem to be tightened down very much, do they have locking nuts ?
Is that the pad behind the sliding plate that you changed ?
Anyone know what size ball bearing I need to get ?
Roy.
Hi Roy,
In the SRM instructions they say make sure one coil of the springs is showing above the cups or you'll get drag, so I thought I'd try it on two first off and on road testing that was fine - and down here in Plymouth we have lots and lots of steep hills to challenge a slipping clutch.
I did have to shorten my 6 spring pushrod. Like an idiot I didn't measure what I ended up with but if you set the clutch up and adjust the supplied top hat pusher about half way then (as far as I recall you need to shorten the pushrod so that about 1/4" is protruding on the gearbox side. In my first attempt I cut my original pushrod a fraction too short but luckily I'd recently bought a length of 1/4" silver steel for just this purpose so made another from that, which ended up the correct size. Heated the ends to cherry red and quench in oil (I use the old ATF I removed from the chaincase I used with the 6 spring). SRM recommend using SAE 40 and say not to use ATF, I used some Castrol GTX SAE 15/40 that I had.
When the clutch lever is pulled in about half way the arm on the gearbox should be parallel with the cover joint or 90 degrees to the pushrod. When the lever is not pulled it should be approximately at 11 o'clock, so that'll give you an idea of what length your pushrod needs to be. I didn't fit a ball bearing and in my opinion it's not needed with this clutch. Lever is a one finger affair - so why try to change it?
Yes, the felt washer is the big one (about 4" dia ) that is squeezed between the inner case and the sliding plate. SRM also provide a smaller felt washer which fits on the back of the clutch centre and also a copper thrust washer. The tricky bit is carefully offering the chainwheel up to clutch hub and keeping all the twenty bearings in situ (packed in grease). One of those jobs that you could do first attempt or It'll take a couple of attempts but make sure they all stay in place.
The four studs in the centre hub come supplied loose. They have square heads, which fit in a recessed ring in the back of the hub and wobble about a lot (which worried me) but when you fit the cups and springs and when under slight tension they centralise themselves and are firm enough.
The other thing that struck me when adjusting the spring pressure is that this clutch is so easy to successfully set up because of the solid pressure plate and the design of the pusher. Even with the springs under tension you can push on the pressure plate and wobble it from side to side, which to me means that when it's pushed away with the top hat pusher (with its lovely roller bearings) to disengage the plates I think it's sort of self centralising and therefore it's not such a hassle to get it perfect like you do with the dodgy flexible 6 spring version. I maybe wrong but I'm convinced that this pressure plate doesn't need to run 100% true like the 6 spring. I just screwed in the nuts to where I thought I'd try it and bingo!
Anyway, good luck with it, I'm sure like everyone else you'll be delighted.
