bsa a10 clutch id

[69Bonni]

Hi Boys

SRM do a really nice replacement cush drive nut that you can actually get a socket on instead of those soppy castlations!(Ebay Item number: 270258925803) take a look!
BSA designed that nut especially to come loose and machine away the inside of your primary case (how many have you seen!!).

Well in my Basket case RR i have a two 6 spring clutches and one 4 spring clutch all a bit rusty.
My 67 A65T has a triplex chain and a 3 spring clutch, blowed if i can remember whats in the Bonni

Lee you can get the clutch hub adaptors that convert 6 spring to 4 spring (later type) Picture attached... there normally available on Ebay etc.

I cant make up my mind weather to bother with a belt drive or stick with the standard 4 spring, (which of course there is nothing wrong with standard set up).

Steve

[LJ.]

That cush nut certainly looks  neat! and I never knew SRM sold on ebay, thanks for posting that Steve. Looking at the nut... I wonder what the two small holes are either side of the hex? they seem to be threaded, I wonder if this is some locking device?? Think I'm gonna have to save my pennies for one of these, trouble is I have two A10's so which one gets spoilt? 

[Richard]

LJ what is avitar?
and you already know what I look like! handsome with a big quiff and slim!!!! I wish
Richard (minety)

[69Bonni]

Hi LJ,

Its a problem isnt it! all i can say its a Bloody good job Her in doors doesnt actually find out how much i have spent on what she calls "Rusty old boxes of Crap" .... im mortally wounded by her comments! I think its because i promised her a day out and took her to Kempton Park bike jumble, not my smartest move.

As you probably know im gathering the parts to rebuild my RR, Im buying a bit here and a bit there, peed off that the dam swinging arm will either have to be changed    or i will have to Mod the original to take the QD hub (Torque arm and Chainguard) Other threads here talking about replacing SW bushes put me right off! (funny enough its a job i have never had to do).

Anyhow this Nut is on the wish list! Nearly every primary case i have seen has marks from this castellated nut coming loose. As you say the crank is pulled up and shimmed onto the drive side by the nut and tension of the Cush drive. As you rightly said this has to be done up Bloody tight (about 4 and a half white knuckles i think) which is a pain to do with a castellated nut theres probably a "Tool" for the job, i could make one i guess. But the SRM one looks nice and they do make nice parts (at a price) by the look of the one on my engine it looks like its been done up with a cold chisel.

SRM and Burton Bike bits and quite a few others sell on ebay now.

Cheers

Steve

[a10sausage]

hi folks...i tightened the cush drive nut up as much as possible and then loctited it into place followed by the split pin ....no damage done apart from the inside of the primary case..,that srm nut looks just the job i will buy one of those,has anybody got an idea on clutch id yet,not that it really matters as i know the plates and springs fit for a 4 spring version.....its just amazing how many alterations these bikes get over a 50 year period.

[Richard]

I hope that is an old photo as if it isn't then you have it a bit wrong the cush drive parts need to be fitted in the lower part of the curve i.e. the spring will be more relaxed when tightened as the two parts ride up when you pull away under spring tension
Richard

[LJ.]

Those splines look good sausage! (Really cant keep calling you that! have you got a proper name like Fred, Horace or summat?)  

Richard... The avatar is the little picture next to the message. You see my red A10? that is the avatar it makes a person instantly recognisable. You can use just about any picture on your computer or link from a picture in photobucket.

And Steve... Any woman who spends a day looking round autojumbles needs a medal in my book, amazing women! Mine would moan like crazy.

Edit...

Richard... Looking back to the start of the thread the original photo shows the cush nut nearly off having chewed through the split pin. I bet this was the reason the clutch was not working properly as the cush lobes would have been riding over each other. Hopefully and I think this latest picture from sausage would be a photo before he replaced the clutch plates and done up that cush nut. No doubt he'll put us right... and probably tell us his name is Fred too! 

[BSA500]

The threaded holes in the SRM cush nut are to fit a timing degree disc they sell(I want but am too poor)
Andy

[a10sausage]

a10 sausage aka Andy...hope that helps,
when i dismantled the clutch i found an interesting mix of clutch plates all correct but just different makes..now when i removed the friction and pressure plates i found that the last plate was a steel pressure plate against a plain steel basket....no wonder the clutch slipped...aaarrrgghhh...anybody out there have any idea on the exact oil amount to be added to the primary case after a rebuild!

[69Bonni]

Hi Guys

Yes Sausage Andy you want to check that cush drive lobes, as richard said they should be for want of a better term "Meshed"
Depends on what primary case you have, if you have an old one you take out a bolt and that acts and the oil overflow and sets the level, a newer one has a Nut and drain tube that sets the oil level. Now were going to get into the row about what oil to use!!

BSA 500 oh right thanks for that! now theres a thought, i guess you could make one, i might look at that if i buy one of those nuts.

LJ i can assure you she didnt want to be ... using her words "Dragged round boxes of rusty crap" dont worry she has never let me forget it!

Steve

[a10sausage]

hi steve...lobes fully meshed...all ok now...am i right sae 20 for the case and 250ml of oil

[69Bonni]

Hi Sausage!

8 fluid ounces Mate!

Everyone like different oils in the Primary some use ATF

Steve

[MikeN]

I cant make up my mind weather to bother with a belt drive or stick with the standard 4 spring, (which of course there is nothing wrong with standard set up).

Steve

Steve,
 Regarding belt drives,I ran a Tony Hayward belt drive kit in my Triumph p/unit for 6 years (12000 miles) and Ive had one in my A10 now for the last 2 1/2 years and 6500 miles. I really like them.Once set you dont have to adjust them they get rid of mechanical clatter and best of all you can run them dry so no oil leaks.Also,The hayward kit uses a modern friction material which enables you to back off the clutch springs .If you use a nylon lined clutch cable you only need 2 fingers to operate the cluch.Actually on the Triumph I could do it with one finger.
Mike

[flashblack]

has anybody got an idea on clutch id yet

Hi Andy,
             As far as i know, ( and i`ll probably be proven wrong  ), all triumph/bsa 3 or 4 spring clutches as fitted to A65`s, t140`s etc, have interchangeable parts regards being able to put a 4 spring single row basket with a 3 spring centre drum, which is what yours appears to be. You may also have a cush drive cluth drum as well as the crank cush drive, which was discussed recently on another thread.
             
                                  Hope that helps
                                                            Richie 

[a10sausage]

hi flashback....yes i agree with you about the clutch...it looks like you can mix and match the parts....cool!
i have just topped up the oil as to steves chart...i have just been for a run and its perfect.....cheers mate!