Author Topic: Rear Shocks  (Read 1793 times)

Offline RoyC

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Rear Shocks
« on: 30.10. 2017 13:16 »
Can anyone give me any feedback on these rear shocks please ?   
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221857876858 

My bike is a 1958 A7SS
Staffordshire UK

Online JulianS

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Re: Rear Shocks
« Reply #1 on: 30.10. 2017 13:34 »
I have used Hagon shocks on my A10 for many years and I am very pleased with them.

The lower spring cover is polished stainless and the collet also stainless.

Offline RoyC

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Re: Rear Shocks
« Reply #2 on: 30.10. 2017 13:45 »
I have used Hagon shocks on my A10 for many years and I am very pleased with them.

The lower spring cover is polished stainless and the collet also stainless.

Thanks Julian, I'll order them.
Roy.
My bike is a 1958 A7SS
Staffordshire UK

Offline RoyC

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Re: Rear Shocks
« Reply #3 on: 31.10. 2017 16:48 »
I have used Hagon shocks on my A10 for many years and I am very pleased with them.

The lower spring cover is polished stainless and the collet also stainless.
Hagons fitted, NO MORE GROANING  *smile*
My bike is a 1958 A7SS
Staffordshire UK

Offline bikerboy

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Re: Rear Shocks
« Reply #4 on: 12.11. 2017 23:10 »
Nah I bet you still groan. Oh sorry you meant the shocks groaning  *smile*


BSA A10 x 4
BSA A65 Lightning
Triumph T150v
Tribsa (A10 frame 750 Bonnie motor)

Online RichardL

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Re: Rear Shocks
« Reply #5 on: 04.02. 2024 00:00 »
New new shocks questions.

I just painted and mounted the swingarm, and mounted shocks, on my I-hope-I-can-finish-it-before-I-die eBay barn-find '57 A7.  Two questions, if I may:

Question 1) At the bottom of the shocks, the sleeves in the shock do not really act like spacers to fill the width between the casting ears and keep the casting from compressing.  I didn't try to tightien them so much that they would get snug, for fear of breaking the casting and the belief that they should be loose anyway. Am I correct that it is just a case of using Loctite and bringing them up kinda tight, but without challenging the casting ears? (I know, that was a long question.)

Question 2} In the attached parts view, there is a rubber bush, part number 42-4155. Is that an old-school method for filling the top ring of the shock, versus a modern shock that has a sleeve vulcanized into the ring?

Thanks, in advance,

Richard L.

Online berger

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Re: Rear Shocks
« Reply #6 on: 04.02. 2024 09:39 »
Richard Q1 make a thin spacer or two , Q2 yes  , i hope this helps.

Online limeyrob

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Re: Rear Shocks
« Reply #7 on: 04.02. 2024 13:39 »
I've only ever seen the shock rubbers with a tube vulcanized in.  If there's a gap then a thin washer will do.  Don't forget to check the spacers are in the frame 42-8339 for the bolts that hold the toolbox and tank, they stop the lugs crushing.  Its easier to do this with the shocks out and just leave the bolts 42-9256 (toolbox) and 42-8445 (oil tank) in loose.  I checked the bolts as I did this job last week and I think one is 1/8" longer. Mine has the same bolt in both sides.
Here's the dims:
https://www.baxtercycle.com/product/42-8339/
Slough 59 GF/SR

Online RichardL

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Re: Rear Shocks
« Reply #8 on: 04.02. 2024 18:13 »
Thank, guys.

Berger,

I think if it's a spacer, one may be better, rather than two that are super-thin. Thinking a bit further about the degree of freedom top and bottom, it now occurs to me the tight compression at both ends may be something like silent blocs, where the flex in the vulcanized inserts is enough for the limited range of motion.

Rob,

Thanks for the reminder about the upper tubular spacers, I forgot to put them in, but no real problem, since I will release the tops to insert the shock spacers anyway. It's only been about 18 years since I needed to think about them.

Regards, Richard L

Online RichardL

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Re: Rear Shocks
« Reply #9 on: 11.02. 2024 19:35 »
Don't forget to check the spacers are in the frame 42-8339 for the bolts that hold the toolbox and tank, they stop the lugs crushing.

Spacer 42-8331/8339

...from Baxter Cycle, Iowa, USA: Ridiculously Cheap
...from Draganfly, Suffolk, England: Still Cheap
...made from damaged brake cross-shaft that was on the same bike when it left Small Heath for the USA in 1957: PRICELESS!  *work* *lol*

Richard L.


Offline Joolstacho

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Re: Rear Shocks
« Reply #10 on: 11.02. 2024 21:39 »
I have no connection with them, but here's a callout for NJB shocks. Excellent design and quality. Adjustable damping AND adjustable pre-load. Economical too.

Online RichardL

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Re: Rear Shocks
« Reply #11 on: 11.02. 2024 22:22 »
Well, they don’t advertise a style similar to what I’ve already bought, which are cheap, covered-spring style, just to move the build along. If the bike is completed before I stop breathing I can consider higher quality.

Richard L.

Online mikeb

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Re: Rear Shocks
« Reply #12 on: 13.02. 2024 09:20 »
thread hijack:
Jools - you mention NJB shocks which are new to me tho look the part. And i like the idea of adjustable dampening. I'm not super impressed with the hagon shocks i put on the a10 some years back and I'd like a shock about 1" taller for bit more cornering clearance on our bumpy roads.

so Question: any other report on NJB shocks? do they meet standard and suit spirited riding?

thanks
New Zealand
'61 Super Rocket  - '47 B33 -  '21 Triumph Speed Triple RS

Offline rocker21

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Re: Rear Shocks
« Reply #13 on: 13.02. 2024 11:32 »
fitted a set of ikons to my A7ss, adjustable damping and spring preload, slightly longer than the originals and they work well.
1960 A7SS, 1954 Ariel fieldmaster 500 twin, motoguzzi Monza 500, motoguzzi V7III special, new triumph speed 400
www.brillbikeparts.co.uk

Online limeyrob

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Re: Rear Shocks
« Reply #14 on: 13.02. 2024 11:54 »
Many years ago I tied some dual rate springs, they were fantastic on bumpy roads solo, but they settled too much 2 up.
Slough 59 GF/SR