Complete 4 spring clutch for sale - as fitted to my A10 for years

[t20racerman]

Hi all

I've bought a belt drive primary conversion for my A10 (and love it!) and so no longer have a need for my old 4 spring clutch. It was a really light action, easy to set up and worked superbly. I've listed it on eBay if anyone is interested - more details on the page there:

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142502330123

Cheers

Adrian

[RichardL]

Gotta ask, if working "superbly" (which I am not questioning), why change to the belt drive? Are you expecting "more superbly"?

Who's belt drive did you go with?

Richard L.

[kiwipom]

As the advert says:((An expensive but effective way to cure chain case oil leaks!) cheers

[RichardL]

Ahh.

[chaterlea25]

Hi All,
T20, your primary chain was running well out of line
the chainwheel is well crook!! and a large lump missing from the inner drum ???

Hope the ebay sale goes well LOL

John

[t20racerman]

I fitted the belt drive as I like improving/modernising my Bitza bike. It stopped the oil leaks as there is no longer any oil in the chaincase to leak!

It also makes the bike much smoother (which I didn't expect) and much quieter. It's a lovely mod. Coming next is a 5 speed Nova gearbox which is on order now 😁

Here's the belt drive that I bought:

https://www.britishbikebits.com/alloy-belt-drive-kit-bsa-a7-a10-rocket-goldstar#.VFD1qxbejXo

Highly recommended, although it makes the clutch action a bit on the heavy side. I modified the spring adjusters so that they don't have to be screwed out so far to lighten it up (I have arthritic hands).  Works like a dream.

[t20racerman]

Hi All,
T20, your primary chain was running well out of line
the chainwheel is well crook!! and a large lump missing from the inner drum ???

Hope the ebay sale goes well LOL

John

The primary chain alignment hasn't changed in the 35 years I've had the bike, ditto the so-called 'large lump'  from the inner drum (which I clearly photographed AND describe in my eBay listing). It has worked beautifully in all that time, with no problems whatsoever.  All my eBay sales give all the info, with nothing hidden, and photographs that show ALL wear and tear. Personally I think this is a good deal, some won't maybe, but that's the joy of an auction sale.

Regards
Adrian

[Butch (cb)]

Noted that they recommend running it open for cooling. How are you running with that?

[Black Sheep]

I assume the belt does the job of the removed shock absorber - or is there a cush drive in the new clutch? I must admit to being a bit conservative and am rather fond of a chain running in an oilbath. Perhaps i am lucky, but the one thing our BSAs don't do is leak oil from the chaincases.
The primary drive can get hot. Running a primary chain without oil will destroy a new chain in 300 miles and the chain can get hot enough to give you nasty burns. Trust me on that one.Don't fret, it was only my Norton.  Good reason to get some ventilation on the new belt.

[chaterlea25]

Hi All,
The belt kit linked to is the same as the one I recently got secondhand,
There is no shock absorber in it.
Belts are rigid there is no stretch or elasticity in a toothed belt, on a BSA they need to run with a
fairly slack belt tension, easy twist through 90 degrees

What surprised me about the kit I got which had not done huge mileage maybe 5000 or so
is the wear on the engine pulley 
It is quite noticable 
The kit I have was fitted to a Goldie, big bore and a 5 speed box
The primary ratio with the belt kit is 2:1 , 34 and 68 teeth pulleys
this would mean that the power pulse from the engine was always pulling on the same pulley teeth ?
every 10 revolutions you are pulling on the same belt  teeth
If the pulley(s) had an odd number of teeth it should spread out the wear better ?

The 2:1 ratio is lower than the 23/43 ratio I am running my SR on so I need to think that out some more

At one time SRM were offering a pulley that incorporated the BSA shock absorber
They modified your old sprocket setup,


John

[chaterlea25]

Hi All
Sorry to hijack this thread (again)
Attached is a pic of the wear on the engine pulley
I would need a 37 tooth pulley to get almost the same gearing as my present 23/43 ???

John

[RichardL]

But, good news. It's gold.

[coater87]

 John,

 I have seen that type of wear before on belt pulleys. We blamed it on cheap, poorly made pulleys at work.

 Consider the wear on just 2 or three teeth like that, even though the belt is in full contact with 10-12 teeth at a time. We figured the teeth were miss-shaped and ordered from a better supplier.

 Lee

[t20racerman]

Here's how I opened up my casing to keep it cool (as cyclobutch asked). 

Incidentally, before the purists scream abuse - my bike is a Bitsa bike - I got it as a big collection of assorted bits back in '83 and have continued to modify it ever since. Its never been close to original - it was a '61 A7 originally, according to the old log book, but the engine was changed for a '59 A10 one back in the late 60s. As for the chaincase cover - I picked up an old damaged one years ago in which the crank shock absorber had worn right through the cover! This is the one I milled out as shown on the pic. My perfect original cover is still in my garage.

[muskrat]

G'day t20.
That looks very nice. Put that pic in "Just a picture" section.
I like the cover, a bit safer than mine.
Cheers