Fuel on/around Carb

[LynnLegend]

Hello again,

This is sort of a follow on to my air filter post - I ran the bike without an air filter to the shops and back earlier as a test (thanks Bill) and the bike ran a bit better, however prior to setting off (and upon returning) I noticed that the carb was wet with fuel on the outside.

This leads me to believe that the bike may be leaking fuel into the carb thus my running rich issue (incredible powers of deduction I know).

So, the question I need answering is:

What should I do please help me?!

Other information which may/may not help -
Bike stood without fuel in for a few years - would corks in fuel taps shrinking lead to this issue? One fuel tap was very stiff too.
Carb hasn't been tuned/balanced in ages.
Bike will not tick over once warm, it just stops (if I coast with clutch in the engine will stop). Starts happily on first kick though.
I had noticed some black smoke, but I think this was more to do with fitting a new (2nd hand) exhaust as it seems to have cleared up.
If you'd missed it on my other post, both plugs were very sooty.

Thank you all in advance!

Sam.

[LynnLegend]

One observation I have made, although how relevant it is I do not know, that that the little yellow "thing" (circled in red)which sits above the float does not appear to slide up and down very freely - I wonder whether this might mean fuel in flowing into the carb when it is not meant to?

[JulianS]

Photo 4  the brass float is the wrong way around. Needle will not seal properly likely carb will flood. Just turn it over with gentle slope under the needle

Change the float needle - yellow thing - for a modern viton tipped one. Will seal much better. The one on the right in photo. (the solid brass one is for alcohol only)

[LynnLegend]

Photo 4  the brass float is the wrong way around. Needle will not seal properly likely carb will flood. Just turn it over with gentle slope under the needle

Change the float needle - yellow thing - for a modern viton tipped one. Will seal much better. The one on the right in photo. (the solid brass one is for alcohol only)

Thanks Julian, the float being the wrong way round was my fault, wasn't like that when I took it to pieces.

[KiwiGF]

I can't see for sure in the pics, but there should be a small brass spacer on the float spindle, that prevents the float rubbing on the side cover, is it present?

[LynnLegend]

I can't see for sure in the pics, but there should be a small brass spacer on the float spindle, that prevents the float rubbing on the side cover, is it present?

It is not present. Sounds like something I should have.

[KiwiGF]

https://www.draganfly.co.uk/index.php/bsa/bsa/a710--b3133--c101112--m202133/category/1000-monobloc-carburetter

Part 376/094

I'm not sure the new burlen made carbs need these spacers......but the old ones do.

[JulianS]

New and old monoblocs need the spacer.

[LynnLegend]

Hi all,

Thanks for your help so far - I have changed the float needle, and installed a spacer on the end of the float spindle (ha, I almost sound like I know what I'm doing!) but to no avail, plugs still sooty as anything after a 3 mile run.

I would welcome any further suggestions. Very frustrating, but I am trying to treat each setback as an opportunity to acquire some knowledge and learn a new skill. 

[Triton Thrasher]

If the float isn't punctured and the fuel level isn't too high from people putting a washer under the float valve, then richness at small, to moderate throttle openings is likely to be:

maladjusted pilot mixture screw

worn needle jet

too-small throttle slide cutaway

needle held in wrong clip.

[RoyC]

If you'd missed it on my other post, both plugs were very sooty.

Thank you all in advance!

Sam.

Just came across this in an article I am reading.  -   If the heat range is too cold, the spark plug will be unable to properly self-clean by burning off carbon deposits.