Elec-trick-al

[a101960]

Regulator is from Dynamo Regulators DVR2 +ive earth 6v solid state - anyone had problems with these?

I have never had a problem, however just in case you were not aware, the same regulator regulates to both 6v and 12v. The white lead on the DVR2 has to be connected to regulate to 6v and unconnected to regulate to 12v. You probably already know this but I thought that it was worth mentioning. The DVR2 conections for + earth 6v should be:
Yellow lead to dynamo "D"
Green lead to dynamo "F"
Red lead to earth (bike frame)
Brown and White leads are connected together and go to the ammeter

Make sure that the earthing point is bright and clean and free from any dirt, rust or paint. Scrape and clean up with abrasive paper.

One further point. If the battery is in good condition and fully charged do not expect to see a large indication on the ammeter. I have LED lamps fitted every where. Headlamp, side lamp, speedo, rev counter, and stop, and tail lamps. I rarely see much ammeter activity unless I blip the throttle. My set up is 12v negative earth with two cyclon batteries in series.
John

[Worty]

Cheers Greybeard, mine does seem ok.  Wonder if Mike can shed any light on this issue other than what's already been proffered?

[chaterlea25]

Hi wortluck,
Try this (for a start off)
Connect a headlamp bulb directly across the battery?
Does it light instantly and stay fully bright for 20-30 minutes?

That will check the battery

John

[Worty]

Cheers chaterlea25, will try that too!!

[Worty]

Ok, latest is as follows.

I've changed the headlamp connector and bulb - just in case - but no difference. 

Checked dynamo connections (inc. unwanted earths) and earthing points - all are correctly connected and clean.

Checked headlamp switch - operation seems normal.

I'm thinking now it may be the battery because I just can't think of anything else.  However, when the lights come on, they seem to be pretty bright for a longish period of time.

One other clue is the following.  Engine is started, ammeter seems to show quite a high charge rate.  Switch lights on and ammeter behaves as it should (although charge rate does seem higher than what a101960 seems to be saying).  Blip the throttle a couple of times and the headlamp goes very bright momentarily and that's when the ammeter stops showing anything and I have no direct battery power to anything - lights just run direct from the dynamo, i.e., nothing at tickover and normal at higher revs.

I'm struggling to think of anything else other than the battery.  Is it possible that by blipping the throttle it sends too much power to the battery and it shuts down temporarily (maybe a loose connection inside?).  Then, after a while, the problem goes away (cools perhaps) and battery power returns.

If it is the battery, then it'll be the fourth item in three years.  I went for the Westco sealed glass mat item as it came recommended, but the first failed almost immediately (got a free replacement).  I'm seriously thinking of going for the Cyclons as I can't seem to find a battery to behave well.

Cheers again for your help!!

[duTch]

 Total longshot, and way unlikely , but that the battery and Regulator polarity are incompatible ( connection reversed)?

[Worty]

Cheers duTch, how would I check that?  I know it's a long shot, but would anything work if polarities were reversed?  Charging does work sometimes, and lights work sometimes, both together sometimes!  For such a simple electrical setup, I'm running out of options as to what is the problem.

[duTch]

 Dunno- I know nothing about electronic regs. apart from what I've read on the forum, that mainly being they are/can be polarity sensitive.
 I guess the only way is to check the specs on the reg, and make sure the battery matches it.... partly why I like the mechanical regs. (which I erroneously thought you had, in spite of earlier info).

 Like I say, it's a long shot and no doubt already covered ..

[Bsareg]

Years ago , it was known for dynamos to reverse their residual magnetism , never seen an explanation why , but they did . Caused really weird  effects on amp meter and could flatten a battery or burn wires especially on cars .  Cure was to disconnect the dynamo from vehicle and flash field to whatever terminal on battery was live , just as you would do on a new dynamo . I've  not heard of this problem for years but might be worth a try

[morris]

If it is the battery, then it'll be the fourth item in three years.  I went for the Westco sealed glass mat item as it came recommended, but the first failed almost immediately (got a free replacement).  I'm seriously thinking of going for the Cyclons as I can't seem to find a battery to behave well

When converting the SA to 12V I installed a Westco AGM 5AH that let go after only 4 months.
Replaced it with a Yuasa 7AH. After 3 years still going strong.

[muskrat]

Strange as I swear by the AGM's. Both my A's are converted to 12v through DVRII's for Boyer ignition. The cafe has a tiny 4 amp and the Plunger has two of the same. Both untouched for about 8 years. In my CB1100F (worked firebreather) I have a 14 amp that's lasted over 5 years.
The only time I've had a flat battery is when the dynamo belt let go.
Cheers

[morris]

Should have mentioned the Yuasa is also an AGM mounted on it's side.

[mikeb]

how's the cider going?

i don't understand battery faults, like internal shorts or breakages etc, so guessing here. if its feasible can you disconnect the regulator completely - at least the 2 wires to the generator and the one the battery live (btw are you pos or neg earth?).  then at least the battery and horn etc should behave normally under all circumstances.
then if still trouble could you borrow a battery or even use an old 3/4 dead one to test it out?
and sorry for asking the obvious - the generator D + F are connected the right way around?

PS - cyclons work for me. I've heard a theory that some new fancy batteries don't like cold weather charging - can't recall which ones

[duTch]

 Mike rounded me up while I was writing, but similar thought;

  When I had my previously mentioned battery issues, I bought the cheapest/most available/best fit lead acid battery I could and used that until I knew everything was ok again- still keep it charged for a spare and bench-testing stuff.

 It's a 6N6-1B-1  (6V/6Ah), but should be a similar in 12 V

[trevinoz]

When this happens, the first thing you should do is check the battery voltage.
If this is OK, have a good ,long, hard look at the wire between the battery and the ammeter.
It seems as though your generator is working but the connection between the ammeter and the battery is going open circuit, or the connection between the battery and earth.