Elec-trick-al

[Rex]

When the ciders have worn off you could clean the holder's terminals, clean and/or resolder the bulb/lamp terminals and take some emery to the lamp/bulb body to ensure a good clean contact.
Sometimes the holder terminals' springiness has worn off so a slight bend may be required.

[duTch]

 Just outta curiosity, what type of headlight/bulb holder is it...maybe BPF ?

[Worty]

Yeah, its 6v BPF on a standard 7 inch headlamp.  Personally, I think the connector arrangement is absolutely s**t and was looking to see if there's an upgrade to, say, a two/three pin halogen.  If anyone has any ideas of a 'diy' solution in this regard, I'd be happy to hear it - don't really want to pay a fortune out for a fancy system.  I did read somewhere that, for the 12v conversions, there was an adapter you could use which would allow use of a three pin halogen bulb.  Another fella on this topic used a spring type arrangement to keep the bulb firmly in place when doing his own modification.

Anyway, I have a damaged spare headlamp and will soon have a spare connector - going to try a few things to see what works!!

[duTch]

 I run a 'motorcycle specific' Hella reflector for H4/ Pt43 (I think), and inserts are available in 6V probably from 'Goffy', I'll dig out a number later. Not cheap though (Au $100+) but should be cheaper in UK/Eu.
 Narva also do them a bit cheaper, and I have one of those on the Gutzzi, but the Hella has a better spread

[Worty]

Cheers duTch, if you find time to post a few pictures of your arrangement that'd be sound

[Worty]

Ok, getting there.

Got all lights on today so took it for a run.  Ammeter showing really good charge with and without lights on.  After two miles, ammeter stops showing anything even with lights on.  However, lights still work but it seems they are powered direct from the dynamo rather than the battery because, on tickover, the lights are barely on and the horn just emits a buzzing sound. At slightly higher revs, lights are bright and horn works fine.  Turn off engine and electrics are dead for a few seconds then all come on - obviously powered by the battery.

In summary 1.  Engine off - all lights on and ammeter showing discharge.  2.  Start engine and ammeter shows charge with lights on and off.  3.  After short distance, ammeter shows nothing (in middle) regardless of whether lights on or off.  Lights work (from dynamo?).  4.  Stop engine - no lights for a few seconds then all come on.  This cycle is then repeated.

Question:  Is this normal or should the lights work from the battery with engine running when the regulator decides the battery has had enough charge and switches off the charging circuit.  If this is not normal, could someone tell me what the *&^% is going on please.

Cheers

[mikeb]

golly, time for some more cider?
it all sounds possibly normal until step 4.

that is, it could be after a couple of miles your battery is fully charged so nil current drawn. however even then at tick-over you'd expect it to draw a few amps (ammeter showing discharge) with the lights on as there is not enough being generated (by E3L) for the lights. keep in mind the horn does not go through the ammeter so no reading from that is normal.

step 4 is weird. i don't have a plausible theory.  unless maybe the regulator is malfunctioning is unique and strange ways. but even then the lights go directly from the battery (via switches) so that's very unlikely. what kind of regulator is it? do you know its history? If you short the ammeter does this still happen?  this is far-fetched but you could disconnect the regulator (all wires - and hence the generator too) and just get the lights/horn stable/reliable first.

does the tail-lamp act the same way as the headlamp?

re the headlamp bulb/connector - I managed to shoe-horn a H4 bulb into a BPF shell by removing the mounting tags on the bulb and using high-temp cable ties to secure it. then you can use a H4 connector. Dutch's H4 reflector makes much more sense than my hack. But I'd be anxious about adding extra watts (=amps) to a El3 generator - I went mad on this stuff here - https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=11047 - and concluded decent LEDs is the only way to go. but you have other problems first!

[chaterlea25]

Hi,
Have you tried another battery?
It looks like theres a bad connection either in the circuit or battery?
I have seen batteries that fail internally and give weird symptoms similar to yours!!

In my experience its nearly always the battery that goes to crap

John

[Worty]

Yeah, I'm on the cider again!!!

Regulator is a new, standard 6v item.  Can't remember offhand the type but it is the one for the bike.  Don't know if it's malfunctioning.  Have tried shorting the ammeter but same results.  Tail lamp goes out too.  It's almost as if the whole electrical system switches over from the battery to the dynamo once it's charged for a while.

Don't get me started on batteries.  First battery I had boiled over and sprayed acid all over my nice newly chromed silencer - had to get a new pair.  To avoid the same problem, I got a Westco sealed, glass mat battery - which failed.  Got a free replacement which is the one I have now.  It does seem to charge and hold charge, and operates the electrics well.  If it is faulty, it's a bloody weird fault.  I've run earths all over the place and I'm going to replace the headlamp connector and bulb next - just to see.

I presume disconnecting the regulator will allow me to test whether the lights, horn, etc work ok from the battery.  If they do, and I reconnect the regulator and the same problems occur, do I blame the regulator for the weird problems?  Incidentally, should the lights work from the battery when the bike is running, or is it normal for them to switch to the dynamo, or is this just weird.

Getting drunker

[trevinoz]

Have you got an inline fuse?
Sometimes the crappy plastic holders have a problem with the contacts receding into the ends causing intermittent open circuit.

[Bsareg]

On a dynamo system the lights and hooter always work from the battery. The charging system is separate and only operates to keep the battery top up.

[mikeb]

ditto what Bsareg says (brave having 'reg' in your handle on a BSA site, Reg?)

If they do, and I reconnect the regulator and the same problems occur, do I blame the regulator for the weird problems?

if so you blame something in the charging system.
do you mean a solid state regulator OR a clicky-clackity lucas or modern-made old-style replacement?

[duTch]

 

..... Regulator is a new, standard 6v item.  Can't remember offhand the type but it is the one for the bike.  ....

 That may be a clue  I  bought one of them RB 107/8 (replacement for and kind of MCR 2 copy).

 I discovered the cover is bullshit wrong, and too short.  Take the cover off  and run it and see what happens.
 Someone else had a similar issue (one of the BSA-Bills maybe ?)

 Edit: because the cover is (was) too short,  the 'live' Frame/tower inside was earthing out to the cover......

 Also if you have an alloy end cover on the Dynamo/Genny, check the 'D' & 'F' wires aren't shorting on the inside of the cover. ..that caused me similar battery issues ×3

 I found the Hella box right where I left it

 Extra Edit;
 

. Dutch's H4 reflector makes much more sense than my hack. But I'd be anxious about adding extra watts (=amps) to a El3 generator - 

 No extra Watts- a 35/35 W insert, I buy mine from Adelaide but also available from at least Goffy in UK Maybe Priory(?)
 

[Worty]

Regulator is from Dynamo Regulators DVR2 +ive earth 6v solid state - anyone had problems with these?

Will check the D and F wires on the dynamo.  No inline fuse on mine.

Thanks for all your contributions.  I've got tons to try and check out.  Will update when I finally find the answer.

[Greybeard]

Regulator is from Dynamo Regulators DVR2 +ive earth 6v solid state - anyone had problems with these?nswer.

I have one; no problems with it. I understand they have a very good reputation.

Mike from Dynamo Regulators is a forum member.