to recommission not restore

[Rocket Racer]

belt it tim! its no show pony

can I keep my anorak? (inquiry now sent to Bob)

[Beeza]

Hi Tim, just my opinion, but I don’t like 6 springers, the buckle in some new steels is time consuming to get out, but saying that if the steel plates are PERFECT then go for it. I also think oil in the primary should be there! So apart from my Daytona (an original 6 spring ), I do run all 4 spring clutches, including the 54 RR salt bike I’m waiting to run, now next March.
I did run a belt in my 57 flash quite some time ago, and in ‘my’  opinion the lack of a cush is to ‘me’ evident. The belts used are akin to a timing belt, and so!  have minimal or no flex. On my 57 flash the drive gear was an alloy unit (some time ago now), and when I looked at it  after 3 years running so , and no serious miles  on it, for no real reason the splines were about half the thickness, ( yes 65 fb on the nut), however my thoughts went to the fact of no cush. So from there on in, I run 4 spring (I used to use Lyfords clutches but now SRM).
My 2 cents wortz xx
Good luck mate I’m sure the bike will be fine.
I’m hoping to come across the ditch to meet up mate. Thomas
Yep I’ve had a beer, love the forum

[Rocket Racer]

Thanks Beeza, I persevered with a six spring for over 20 years on my ZB33 before fitting a 4 spring, on my race 55 rr run a BNR after initially running a suzuki conversion. The thing that blew me away from the BNR belt kit was how quiet it is, losing all the chain noise (also no dynamo). Now it is a bit different lugging two lardy blokes around the race track, feeding in the clutch with 5k on the tacho and lifting the front wheel for a moment but I've found the BNR to be trouble free while the engines been routinely stripped and needed TLC. I take your point you lose the cush drive and in doing so loose gearing options off the crank. The common 1:2 ration of a belt does gear the beesa's quite tall so not suitable for the drags.
Your daytona sounds interesting. My sidecar was built as a homage to the daytona bikes and I recall seeing a genuine one at Mike Reily's in Oz while I was building a super rocket (since sold  ).  The main reason I would stick to the 6 would be purely to keep it original, but in practice fitting a modern clutch doesnt preclude that happening one day if someone is so minded  . They can be made to work fine just are not a fit and forget option like a BNR.
I think the 54 RR will make a great all rounder, in practice any long distance hauls I use the vincent for(planning a week riding around the south Island with my wife late Oct/early Nov -  probably over 300km)  as it just chews them up effortlessly (famous last words), But the BSA's are much nicer in traffic, shorter trips and for club runs or the pub.  I am trying not to restore it other than mechanically, but then I also dont want to fake parts as old, would rather this became a grandfathers axe. Kept a good honest BSA.
Hope we do get to catch up. Am sure I could find you something to ride here.

[KiwiGF]

Hi Tim, just my opinion, but I don’t like 6 springers, the buckle in some new steels is time consuming to get out, but saying that if the steel plates are PERFECT then go for it. I also think oil in the primary should be there! So apart from my Daytona (an original 6 spring ), I do run all 4 spring clutches, including the 54 RR salt bike I’m waiting to run, now next March.
I did run a belt in my 57 flash quite some time ago, and in ‘my’  opinion the lack of a cush is to ‘me’ evident. The belts used are akin to a timing belt, and so!  have minimal or no flex. On my 57 flash the drive gear was an alloy unit (some time ago now), and when I looked at it  after 3 years running so , and no serious miles  on it, for no real reason the splines were about half the thickness, ( yes 65 fb on the nut), however my thoughts went to the fact of no cush. So from there on in, I run 4 spring (I used to use Lyfords clutches but now SRM).
My 2 cents wortz xx
Good luck mate I’m sure the bike will be fine.
I’m hoping to come across the ditch to meet up mate. Thomas
Yep I’ve had a beer, love the forum

I’ve just fitted a BNR drive to my B31, was thinking of doing the A10 next, about the splines, were these worn down on the crank?  or belt drive pulley? (crank would be bad  )

[Rocket Racer]

Hi Tim, just my opinion, but I don’t like 6 springers, the buckle in some new steels is time consuming to get out, but saying that if the steel plates are PERFECT then go for it. I also think oil in the primary should be there! So apart from my Daytona (an original 6 spring ), I do run all 4 spring clutches, including the 54 RR salt bike I’m waiting to run, now next March.
I did run a belt in my 57 flash quite some time ago, and in ‘my’  opinion the lack of a cush is to ‘me’ evident. The belts used are akin to a timing belt, and so!  have minimal or no flex. On my 57 flash the drive gear was an alloy unit (some time ago now), and when I looked at it  after 3 years running so , and no serious miles  on it, for no real reason the splines were about half the thickness, ( yes 65 fb on the nut), however my thoughts went to the fact of no cush. So from there on in, I run 4 spring (I used to use Lyfords clutches but now SRM).
My 2 cents wortz xx
Good luck mate I’m sure the bike will be fine.
I’m hoping to come across the ditch to meet up mate. Thomas
Yep I’ve had a beer, love the forum

I’ve just fitted a BNR drive to my B31, was thinking of doing the A10 next, about the splines, were these worn down on the crank?  or belt drive pulley? (crank would be bad  )

crank spline wear not uncommon, Bender suffers from it. I use a special loctite that has held up for my race abuse for many years without any progression, just needs a bit of heat to get it back off and a puller. I did once see a crank where a set of shims took up the slack for each spline. you dont want a cush drive or fixed hub moving relative to the crank. One day it will snap.
I am erring toward a BNR, its a kit, its complete, it works. No messing about with bits that are'nt quite right.

[chaterlea25]

Hi All,
If I think of it after the weekend (heading off in the AM) I will take a couple of photos of a BNR pulley that came with the clutch kit I was gifted (the owner fitted an electric leg to his Goldie)
The pulley has worn badly on 1/4 (ish) of its circumference in not many miles
Anyhow I asked SRM to fit a cush drive into a new pulley, Its a very neat job
This clutch was going to go into my SR but now it looks like I need an electric leg as well
but I have two other BSA projects it would also go into

John

[Rocket Racer]

Hi All,
If I think of it after the weekend (heading off in the AM) I will take a couple of photos of a BNR pulley that came with the clutch kit I was gifted (the owner fitted an electric leg to his Goldie)
The pulley has worn badly on 1/4 (ish) of its circumference in not many miles
Anyhow I asked SRM to fit a cush drive into a new pulley, Its a very neat job
This clutch was going to go into my SR but now it looks like I need an electric leg as well
but I have two other BSA projects it would also go into

John

Bobs front pulley's are alloy so would be the sacrificial part if there is preexisting wear in the splines. I would expect that a nice tight cush drive wouldnt wear a crank, but have seen numerous cranks that have worn splines from a cush drive set up. This is an area where its worth making sure the cush centre or front pulley has absolutely no slop before bolting up. As standard its a steel on steel fit and the cranks do wear there. so a real problem. A BNR pulley that starts off loose isnt going to last long.
I do check benders crank every pull down and neither have shown wear but I do typically loctite my pulley so its not going to move. On Bender I typically do dump the clutch fairly brutally so I can light up the back tyre and my crewman feeds in the grip. It brings out my inner hoon 
If you want to sell that BNR please PM me  , they are rubbish you dont need it...

[chaterlea25]

Hi RR,
It was the outside teeth on the pulley that wore ? Presuming from the power stroke of the Goldie
I have the real RGS and a Goldie replica projects that need the engine and gearbox connecting, so will hang onto the belt kit
for now at least

John

[KiwiGF]

Hi Tim, just my opinion, but I don’t like 6 springers, the buckle in some new steels is time consuming to get out, but saying that if the steel plates are PERFECT then go for it. I also think oil in the primary should be there! So apart from my Daytona (an original 6 spring ), I do run all 4 spring clutches, including the 54 RR salt bike I’m waiting to run, now next March.
I did run a belt in my 57 flash quite some time ago, and in ‘my’  opinion the lack of a cush is to ‘me’ evident. The belts used are akin to a timing belt, and so!  have minimal or no flex. On my 57 flash the drive gear was an alloy unit (some time ago now), and when I looked at it  after 3 years running so , and no serious miles  on it, for no real reason the splines were about half the thickness, ( yes 65 fb on the nut), however my thoughts went to the fact of no cush. So from there on in, I run 4 spring (I used to use Lyfords clutches but now SRM).
My 2 cents wortz xx
Good luck mate I’m sure the bike will be fine.
I’m hoping to come across the ditch to meet up mate. Thomas
Yep I’ve had a beer, love the forum

I’ve just fitted a BNR drive to my B31, was thinking of doing the A10 next, about the splines, were these worn down on the crank?  or belt drive pulley? (crank would be bad  )

crank spline wear not uncommon, Bender suffers from it. I use a special loctite that has held up for my race abuse for many years without any progression, just needs a bit of heat to get it back off and a puller. I did once see a crank where a set of shims took up the slack for each spline. you dont want a cush drive or fixed hub moving relative to the crank. One day it will snap.
I am erring toward a BNR, its a kit, its complete, it works. No messing about with bits that are'nt quite right.

Im still interested in what “beeza” can report on the pulley (or crank) wear.

On my b31 I have had to insert shims in each spline on the crank (bits of tin can actually) to make up for the wear on the crank, it Needed these “shims” both before I fitted the BNR kit, and after.

Its not got goldie type torque so the pulley teeth should last!

[Beeza]

Hi guys, the crank splines on the alloy pulley wore.

[KiwiGF]

Hi guys, the crank splines on the alloy pulley wore.

Thanks beeza, thats better than the crank wearing eh

[Swarfcut]

KiWi   The narrow stainless steel strips backing windshield wiper blades make good shimstock for worn crank splines.....Used this cheapskate trick with great success, works fine on a standard road bike.

 Swarfy.

[KiwiGF]

KiWi   The narrow stainless steel strips backing windshield wiper blades make good shimstock for worn crank splines.....Used this cheapskate trick with great success, works fine on a standard road bike.

 Swarfy.

Good idea, thanks swarfy

[chaterlea25]

Hi All,
A photo of the worn GS belt pulley and a couple of the new SRM modified cush drive pulley
I cannot see the joint between the new pulley and the cam section I sent them

John

[Rocket Racer]

I see the next NZ national BSA rally happens to occur at the end of February in the south Island, so if I can stop myself being too distracted by the A7ss project and rebuilding my a10rr sidecar engine, I will aim to have the road rocket ready for it. Probably 2000km round trip  , something to work towards.

I realised today that the new rr valves run different collet types to the ones that were original so have just ordered a set. But I think I'm close to having the bottom end back together.

Major house renovations havent helped, the builders went broke during the lockdown  , but getting there...slowly