Author Topic: poor tickover  (Read 799 times)

Offline cableguide

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  • south coast uk
poor tickover
« on: 24.05. 2016 08:19 »
Just wondering what the secret is to a good steady tickover. Have never been able to get my A7 to idle nicely.

Offline BSA_54A10

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    • BSA National
Re: poor tickover
« Reply #1 on: 26.05. 2016 09:56 »
First is a magneto cam that is actually 180 deg
I have seen some that were nearly 15 deg out.
Then the cam needs the same lift on both side as well.
Having done that you need to look at the AA unit, it must advance and retard freely with matched springs ( again very hard to find )
After that you turn to the carb
If you still can not get it to idle smoothly look closely at the cam and in particular the cam lift.
Not odd to have them all over the place.
Bike Beesa
Trevor

Offline cableguide

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Re: poor tickover
« Reply #2 on: 27.05. 2016 10:17 »
Appreciate the reply.
SRM ground the mag cam so hopefully thats ok...looks like Ive got a bit of work to do..Ill let u know how it goes.
cheers
cabe

Offline KiwiGF

  • Last had an A10 in 1976, in 2011 it was time for my 2nd one. It was the project from HELL (but I learned a lot....)
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Re: poor tickover
« Reply #3 on: 27.05. 2016 13:59 »
When my bike had a problem with idling my first thought was a worn slide causing air to bypass the jet. In my case i was right and a new 376 monobloc carb from Burlen fixed it.

just my opinion but check the slide for play fore and aft, at just above idle. Play should be minimal.

it  is also worth checking for air leaks elsewhere eg manifold gasket and cable entry points on carb top.
New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash  (1st finished project)
1949 B31 rigid “400cc”  (2nd finished project)
1968 B44 Victor Special (3rd finished project)
2001 GL1800 Goldwing, well, the wife likes it
2009 KTM 990 Adventure, cos it’s 100% nuts