Gear selection problem

[A10 JWO]

My new 1954 A10 has stood for some time. I have fettled the engine which runs great. I changed the gear box oil and all looks clean inside.
I can select all gears quite well with the engine off. With the engine running I can select first and it will pull away. BUT I cannot get it out of gear with the engine running. The clutch seems to be behaving albeit I have not taken the primary cover off yet.
Can someone point me in the right direction.
Ta Colin

[Goldy]

Many of these type of problems tend to be clutch faults or selector faults. You need to check that the clutch is disengaging correctly and is pulling off the plates square. With the gearbox, if you remove the outer cover you will be able to see the selector claw and check that it is not worn or distorted. Also check that the selector mechanism is free. I had a similar problem many years ago which was caused by the selector spindle binding in the bush. if the selector does not return to the mid position after first gear then it will not be in the correct position to select the next gear.
All the best Goldy

[A10 JWO]

Hi
Pulled the Primary cover off and the clutch is pulling to one side, this is probably my gear problem. Pulled it down and some of the tongues have indentations which I will address with a file, apparently this is quite normal for 68,000 miles. The four studs for the clutch tensioners are not fixed and flop about ? Is this normal on old BSA's ? The outer basket does have some float, how much is allowed ? Will probably order some new inserted plates and springs. Any advice would be nice as I have been out of the loop for many years.
Thanks Colin

[metalflake11]

First things first, get all the adjustments correct. Make sure the arm on the gearbox is pointing to about 25 past the hour with the clutch out, and about half past with it in. (But no more than half past) Next, adjust the cable so there is about 1/8" play at the lever. Next in line is take the casing off the drive side. Then, with the lever pulled in, kick the bike over and from above look at the pressure plate in relation to the basket. If the plate wobbles,  you need to loosen the spring screw a 1/4 turn where the plate is closest to the basket and tighten 1/4 turn where it is furthest away. It takes a few goes to get it perfect but you want it running round as parallel to the basket as it will. Try that and then let us know how it goes.........The spring bolts do wobble and the basket does float.

[A10 JWO]

Sound advice which makes sense indeed. the plates with cork on seem to jam a bit when put in loose which may be caused by the floating of the cadge. They have about 2mm of tread on them. shall I fit new and new springs. There was no level plug on the prim' chain case so the clutch was covered in oil, correct I hope. Keep it coming and thanks again.

[metalflake11]

Don't worry about the floating yet, but the grooves that the plates slide in should be pretty straight, and not have wear that the plates can stick in. I have cleaned them up with a small file before now, When you have done all this don't forget to check, or better still if the bike has been stood a while change the oil in the gearbox. I think on the plunger model one of the screws in the chaincase acts as a level indicator. Not 100% sure of that, but I am 100% sure somebody on this site will know!

[A10 JWO]

Thanks again.
Will get new springs and adjusting nuts from Leigh Classics in Essex on Friday. Will then then put it back together on Saturday. I got the bike from a guy that rebuilt the engine/gearbox. He then became quite ill and never even started it. The bike started first kick ( gobsmacked ).
All oils were changed the day it arrived. Will update the weekend and you are right about the level screw, spot on; thanks again.
Colin

[A10 JWO]

Put the clutch back together and it is pulling evenly. Started the engine and shifted nicely into 1st gear, then back to square one; unable to get it out of gear. Turned off the motor then it slipped straight back out of gear. I fitted the old springs as the new stock I bought are a quarter of an inch shorter. I tightened the adjusting nuts until the threads were level with the nut face. I will mention that I ran the clutch dry to test it and the cork plates are quite worn.
Next stage please.
Regards Colin

[metalflake11]

The pressure plate runs parallel to the basket when you kick it over with the clutch in?......The gap does not get larger and smaller?

[A10 JWO]

The pressure plate moves away from the plates by about one 8th of an inch, but slightly out of line with my torch this time of night on a very nasty day. But I really appreaciate your help ?

Regards Colin

[chaterlea25]

Hi Colin
Cork lined plates Need oil to work properly, they tend to stick as you have found out without oil
They need less spring pressure than modern bonded plates, about 1 turn more than what stops the clutch slipping under kickstart against compression
Its better to wait for some decent weather and try the bike on the road rather than in the shed
Beware of cheapo bonded plates with a whitish/gray friction material !!! these drag and stick + kangaroo take offs
 

HTH
John

[A10 JWO]

Complete set of plates arrived overnight from some nice chaps at Kidderminster Motorcycles ( well done ) will fit them after work Saturday and update you helpful chaps. Have been given various advice on what oil to use in primary 10-40, ATF etc ???
Have a nice weekend
Colin