Author Topic: Plunger engine Gear bolts.  (Read 368 times)

Offline 7iain7

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Plunger engine Gear bolts.
« on: 13.08. 2024 19:14 »
Hi, can anyone help me identify the bolts used on a 1952 A10 plunger gearbox? There are two bolts that go from the bottom of the frame by the centre stand up into the gearbox. I need to buy a helicoil kit, as one of the threads is in poor condition.
many thanks, iain
52 A10

Offline muskrat

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Re: Plunger engine Gear bolts.
« Reply #1 on: 13.08. 2024 19:32 »
G'day Iain.
https://www.gregmarsh.com/MC/FastenersList.aspx
67-4028    Triumph - BSA    BOLT    BSW    5/16"-18x13/16"    DRILLED HEAD
Drilled head means drilled for lock wire.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline 7iain7

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Re: Plunger engine Gear bolts.
« Reply #2 on: 13.08. 2024 19:49 »
Thank you.
52 A10

Online Rex

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Re: Plunger engine Gear bolts.
« Reply #3 on: 13.08. 2024 21:26 »
Note, they actually ARE Whitworth threads, and not to be confused with BSF or BSCy which many (incorrectly) also term "Whitworth". Drilled heads is a good idea but as the threads on mine were oil-free I used LocTite.

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: Plunger engine Gear bolts.
« Reply #4 on: 14.08. 2024 19:50 »
 This is another application more suited to a stud and nut rather than a bolt into a blind hole. A stud saves the wear on the alloy thread if the unit has to be removed several times. There is usually enough space to drop the box/engine unit down vertically on reassembly, where time is on your side, rather than the throw it into the frame modus of the production line.

 The original thread would have indeed been BSW..."Whitworth" a thread form near as dammit interchangeable with UNC, with the exception of 1/2", the TPI is the same. Modern replacement primary and timing cover bolts are UNC in my experience. Thread angles differ, but this is not of consequence in a worn alloy female thread.

 Alloy needs a coarse thread to give the support to the fastening, BSW and UNC are chosen for this reason and I (hooligan) would have no problem using a  standard Coarse Metric thread in this case. Certainly easier to source a helicoil to suit. Sometimes simply using a new bolt does the trick, as does making sure the hole is cleared out and the whole of the internal thread is being used, so correct length bolt that does not bottom, or a stud that does.

 Tin hat on, under the parapet  ....final choice is yours.

 Swarfy.