Sump Plate / Screen Sealing

[Rex]

I've never been impressed with the idea of sandwiching a heavy gauze between two paper gaskets and hoping it is oil tight, so when my engine was no more than an assembled bottom end I cut a sheet of thin brass plate much the same shape as those paper gaskets and soldered new brass gauze in the middle. This gives a nice smooth surface to seal on.
The hole for the pick-up pipe was reinforced with a copper washer, then one of those nice billet sump plates was fitted using longer studs ie NOT the Allen screws as supplied by SRM etc.
Far better than the cheap and nasty old steel sump plate.

[Joolstacho]

Did you find that a flat gauze allowed the pick up tube to enter through it adequately? - (deep enough down through the hole).
Looks 'marginal' to me, the BSA part is domed, obviously so the tube goes further in.

[Swarfcut]

  The later flat gauze and plain sump plate from the A50/65 is a supposedly straight swap for the original dome type gauze plate.. This flat plate design of gauze is used with the SRM alloy sump plate. While the stud positions and gasket(s) are the same, hole in the gauze and pick up pipe position may need a tickle.

 Removing a flattened and damaged original A10 type domed gauze is easy, just heat up the old plate until the solder melts and pull it off.  Fair play to Rex, why buy when you can make?

 Swarfy.


 PS. I'd like to know the geographical location of Rob's well known supplier.....or even the Brand if an aftermarket component with national distribution.

[JulianS]

I find the SRM filter gauze fits OK.

[Joolstacho]

So, I have a lovely new finned cast alloy sump plate with cool magnetic plug. But it was supplied without a gauze. So I made tooling to stamp a new brass gauze. But of course you can't solder brass to aluminium (well not with 'normal' solders eh?). So how do you fit it?
Probably 24hr epoxy would glue it into the alloy but... Ooh glueing stuff together on a SR seems to go against the grain!
Hmmmm.
It would be much easier to have a simple flat gauze.
Well looking at JulianS pic, maybe I should look at it again, maybe a flat gauze would work.

[JulianS]

Another view of the SRM gauze.

[limeyrob]

That SRM gauze looks the same as the std BSA part (but shiny)

[Joolstacho]

Must clarify this... "BSA Part"... You must be talking / photographing an A50 A65 part, not an A10 A7 part.
The A10 Part (gauze) is not flat... It is convex - domed. Poking a bit higher up into the crankcases. Something like 5-8mm deep dome.

[berger]

JulianS because my original bsa one fits and my srm one is a bit out of line i am thinking i might have a small error on mine , it's only a teenth of an inch but i have had to ease out the reinforcing ring on the hole. or maybe the sucky tube has been knocked a bit in the life of these cases and the bsa one has had the gauze worked over to fit by the previous owner.

[limeyrob]

OK got to the bottom of this. 
The A10 one is a domed gauze soldered into the steel sump plate. The A65 one is flat with a steel outer to form the joint and also fits the A10.  Mine has had the gauze unsoldered from the steel plate and been fitted with a flat A65 part.  This threw me as it was an OEM sump with a flat gauze. The A10 soldered in gauze has an annoying muck trap around the edge and is hard to clean but only needs on gasket, the A65 is easy to clean but needs 2 gaskets.  6 and two 3's.
A10 original steel with gauze is 41-0620
A65 flat plate is 71-1126
I've tapped my steel plate and fitted the drain plug 66-7517 (3/8 BSCY) with a copper washer.

[berger]

 On closer inspection the BSA sump gauze has been kind of worked over / sprained a bit to fit the sucky pipe , so my sucky pipe has had a small accident in it's life, never mind it's not something i have ever checked before throwing a motor together.

[limeyrob]

The sucky tube is a press fit into the case so you can rotate it a bit. I suspect it would pull out a bit too but I don't want to try that just in case.

[berger]

Rob i am NOT disturbing the sucky pipe , this engine has had far too much money and time spent on it for me to be twisting the sucky pipe and ending up with an air leak or other disaster , it stays as is about a 16th out of line  , see building a berger  thread from the start and you will understand the sucky pipe is not being messed with at this stage  pics are page 7 onwards you might enjoy .

[limeyrob]

Fair enough, its easy here on a screen but having just built and stripped the bottom end 3 times in the past 2 weeks because of poor quality parts I know where you are coming from.