Plunger rear brake

[Craigy]

Hi folks,
Just a quick one…..I have a 1952 A10 plunger.
I’ve just had the rear brake rod off the bike to do some work on the wheel alignment screw hole.
When I’ve put the brake rod back on the bike, it’s rubbing on the lower suspension cup.
I can’t see any other way to put it on so that it misses the suspension cup.
Pics aren’t great. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Cheers Craig

[limeyrob]

It looks like the lever arm is not fully on. Is it being pushed out by the barrel for the rod not being central in the fork?

[Craigy]

It’s fully on

[morris]

Plunger bikes should have a cranked rod to avoid touching the spring cover. Part number 67-7033

[muskrat]

G'day Craig.
Something fishy going on there.
I just looked at my 51 A7 plunger and have about 1/4" clearance there. My rod is not cranked but does have a bit of a bow (not much) to it.
Pics of the other end may help.
Cheers

[Craigy]

Cheers lads, just had a look at parts list and see that the rod is slightly cranked. I’ll get one ordered. The bike was in a box of bits for nearly 50 years so very possible the wrong one has been used.
Cheers

[Swarfcut]

   Try it without the support strap....this should have a kink in it to lie below the face of the cam spindle mounting and not foul the lever. My bike had a slot neatly worn in the lower suspension shroud where the brake rod had rubbed, so I bent my straight rod.  It is a bit tight down there anyway, and a Z bend in a brake rod does not inspire confidence but needs must. I think the brake lever is unique to this model range, but always the chance it is wrong. Anyone got a handy reference as to how close the inner barrel lug is to the backplate on a working example?

 Swarfy.

[limeyrob]

Agree you can bend the rods.  You can make one out of 1/4 mild steel rod.