Just revisited this topic in the light of new member Steak-Pudding's conundrum.
Oil drains down into the sump, and as stated, used every day this is no problem as the scavenge side can cope with the small amount every day. Leave for a while and the whole tank can drain down. Modified sump plate with a drain or stop tap in the feed line are the usual easy fix, both have their champions and doom mongers.
The designed barrier to this drain down is the so called "anti wet sumping valve" which is situated between the pump pressure outlet and the timing bush. But even with a perfect seal on this valve, oil can seep through the pump, the exit being via the drive spindle. BSA tried to remedy this on the later A65 Unit models... these pumps have a cast iron body and an O ring seal seal on the input gear shaft.
With a worn pump, and a poor seating valve you're on a looser to start. Let alone a porous pump body and a poor gasket. A worn timing bush will allow oil to cascade over the pump on a running engine, yup, seen that, rather than going to the big ends. So if the valve leaks, here is another easy way down. And yes, oil can also escape around the outside of the timing bush if you are unlucky to have a poor crankcase, always worth a pressure test on any rebuild using a standard type bush set up.
Plenty on the Forum about the foibles of this dry sump system, sleepless nights guaranteed if you have a problem.
Hepolite/Wassell also offer a new pump, this has a cast iron body, so is a possible alternative to the alloy bodied SRM pump.
A7 Longstroke pump is the same, so later pumps and gaskets fit.
Oil pump cavity fills with oil from the timing bush, level is up to the keyhole slot, surplus drains through back to the sump. Surprises new folks when they take off the timing cover and it all pisses out.....
Swarfy.