Drive chain?

[Greybeard]

Not sure I understand this. ‘currently the adjusters are well extended’ – is that with the old chain? If so, they’ll be far less extended with a new one. If I’ve missed the point, why not use the new chain as is, and then remove a whole link later if necessary? Those half links are weak and prone to failure. Only ever use them as a very last resort.

With a new chain I'd like to see the axle a bit further forward.
I was unaware that half-links are weak. Mind you, the way I ride, the chain is  unlikely to break!

[RoyC]

Those half links are weak and prone to failure. Only ever use them as a very last resort.

With a new chain I'd like to see the axle a bit further forward.
I was unaware that half-links are weak. Mind you, the way I ride, the chain is  unlikely to break!

I can't see how they can be weak.

[muskrat]

G'day Roy.
As the plates are cranked (go from inner to outer) they have a tendency to be pulled straight and snap at the bends. A good quality one might withstand the massive power of an A10 but it will always be the weak link!
Bend a bit of wire into a Z then pull on the ends. It will straighten.
Cheers

[duTch]

 

....With a new chain I'd like to see the axle a bit further forward.....

 That's probably why I dropped a link to start with, but having thought it through, next time I'll leave it in and take it out later, that way in theory I'll have 1% less wear , as suggested by RDt2

 

.......Currently, the adjusters are well extended. If I were to remove a whole link the axle would be too far forward and the large hub nut would be against the suspension shroud,.......

 Ok- now I'm with the programme; I don't have shrouds, and after 10K miles still have only about 1/4" betwixt the nut and rebound spring -just enough for a spanner