Steering lock for a 1955 A10 swinging arm model

[BrianS]

I got a new key cut for my steering lock by Timpsons (only a fiver!) and it was stronger than the metal of the lock barrel it seems.

I managed to lock the steering with the new key but despite loads of lube and twiddling etc. I couldn't get it out of the locked position without using a pair of pliers on the key.

This resulted in snapping off the bottom of the lock. Not sure what was causing the binding about a third of the way to undoing.....

Not sure whether I need a 65-5445 or a 82-6738. Anyone know for sure and can anyone recommend a good quality replacement please? I have read a few horror stories :-(

[Butch (cb)]

I can only say that I only got something cheap and nasty for mine from ebay. Kind of works, though I don't use it a lot.

[bsa-bill]

similar, I never fitted mine, thinking it's not much of a preventative measure other then you can't ride it away and a padlock and chain would do that better, and these days a frustrated thief would probably take it out on the bike

[muskrat]

G'day Brian.
65-5445 in my book. Lots of cheap ones on fleabay. Try for a NOS like this  https://mikesclassiccyclespares.com/product/65-5445/
Padlock and chain/HT wire rope are my choise.
Cheers

[Greybeard]

If I have to leave my bike I lock the steering, lock the twist-grip, chain the bike to something solid and push the hidden cut-out toggle switch.

Sometimes I remember to turn off the cut-out switch before I knacker myself kicking over the engine!

[duTch]

 

......... and push the hidden cut-out toggle switch.

 

 ...Now we know what to look for....

 Mine has so many broken/bent fins, tank and fender dings, scratched/crappy paint and mostly salvaged crusty or modified/home-made bits that I just park up, tie the helmet on the mirror and walk away.... ...usually not too far though, unless I have to go to a job in town

[Greybeard]

 

......... and push the hidden cut-out toggle switch.

 

 ...Now we know what to look for....

Drat!

[BrianS]

Thanks for the feedback guys - most appreciated!

Having finished fitting indicators, the next job on my list was to get the steering lock working. It bugged me that it didn't but I am not OCD I promise 

Having started, I had to finish as the locking pin was dropping into its hole in the frame which could have been a tad problematical when out riding 

Anyways up, I have managed to get the offending part off the bike - see photo. Do you reckon its repairable with a bit of JB Weld?   

It seems that all these part numbers are for the same lock - 82-6738,68-5050,03-0175,06-5448 - but rather than take a chance I am going to bimble off to Tri-Supply who are local to me so I can compare.   https://www.trisupply.co.uk/product/steering-lock-and-2-keys-top-yoke-fitting-unit/

I understand about the lock being ineffective but it's nice to have everything on your bike functioning 

[Butch (cb)]

As an aside to all this – on the Guzzi Loop frame I bought late last year I was surprised to find that the key that fits the tool boxes on the bike also operates the steering lock – sweet. Except, weirdly, the steering lock works in pretty much the straight ahead position. Which might point to some accident damage earlier in the bike’s life you might suppose.

Wouldn’t it be funny, I said to my mate at the Bum in the Mud Rally this year, if I rode off with the lock still on. So you can guess what I did on the field there the following morning. Doh.

[duTch]

 

......Except, weirdly, the steering lock works in pretty much the straight ahead position. Which might point to some accident damage earlier in the bike’s life you might suppose...

 Don't some do that anyway?....There's a couple over at the local Guzzly Guys workshop, I'll have a look next time-was there today. My Model T lock engaged at full-lock either way- until it self destructed about 20 years ago....and the switch...and the tool box lock tumblers...all of which are fairly much not longer available, but I get by ......

 I may be able to fit a S/lock to my A10, as the Comical triple tree lock lines up with the lug hole on the head-stock, but at the wrong angle.....maybe one day, but for the moment I have a sleeve in it with a hole to poke a bolt in to hold the steering straight when I'm playing with it
 Just had a look at the OIF Sp/List and it takes a 68-5050 lock anyway, so wouldn't be out of keeping....just another key to lose

[BrianS]

After a very interesting visit to see Mr Oliver Barnes at Tri-Supply at Budleigh Salterton, I now have a brand new lock and keys - OE Code: 82-6738 @ £23.40 - ready to fit 

Mr Barnes was very helpful but, as a Triumph man, he was interested as to how I had removed the old lock. I understood his quandary when I showed me the Triumph equivalent of the retaining bolt. The Triumph version has a sacrificial head on the bolt. Once tightened in place, the head of the bolt is snapped off so that it cannot be undone by any passing ne'er-do-well. I am glad the A10's wasn't like that as I would still be trying to extract the old lock 

My photo includes the BSA locking bolt for reference and you may be able to see that it isn't waisted under the hex head so not easy to knock it off!

Despite being on his own in the shop, Mr Barnes came out to look at my A10 and spotted that my plug caps weren't of the suppressed type and reckoned they should be changed as they could, over time, damage the condenser?

Altogether a nice morning including a ride on Flash in lovely weather - Budleigh Salterton beach was looking lovely and still not too many emmets around  - and a visit to a mate and a look over his T100 that he has owned from new and has recently had a light restoration - cost him £47 10s apparently.

[berger]

brian I have been told many times supressed plug caps are no good for magnetos, any body else got opinions?

[BrianS]

I just Googled the question and found this web page suggesting we may be better off without suppressors - http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/faqs/FAQs%20about%20magnetos%20generally/Are%20suppressors%20and%20resistor%20sparking%20plugs%20OK%20to%20use%20with%20magnetos.htm

[a101960]

My photo includes the BSA locking bolt for reference and you may be able to see that it isn't waisted under the hex head so not easy to knock it off!

Hmm....Interesting. I was always under the impression that the steering lock screw for BSAs was a grub screw like this. That is what is on my C12 and A10. Well slightly different in as much as mine are tightened and released with an Allen key. BSA part number 65-5446 and amazingly it could be purchased without having to buy the steering lock too.

[JulianS]

If your BSA was registered post July 1953 then it would have been fitted with suppressors when new at the factory, due to legislation. So your mag should be able to cope with them without problem.

The Lucas service bulletins showed they introduced a suppressed cap in 1952.

Having used both suppressed and non suppressed cap over the years I have not noticed any difference between them!

As always there will be diverse opinions on the subject.