clutch main shaft output nut

[Topdad]

Hi Guy, the picture othe odd shaped nut is for a 6 spring clutch and you clutch is a bsa/triumph 4 springer ,the nut is recessed and you use a special washer, I've also had good service from Lydford m/cycles who advertise in all the national mag's best wishes Bob hebdon.

[Guy Wilson]

Thanks to you all, I spoke to Lightning spares yesterday and they are posting me the correct nut, washer etc. Very easy!
Guy

[David]

Looking at the picture of the 4 spring clutch, I just can't see how the tab washer works. The tabs don't look long enough to be effective. I have just ordered the tab washer and am about to fit mine. Can anyone share their experiences please? David.

[Guy Wilson]

Hi David, its a while since I fitted mine although the one I ordered from Lightning worked just fine..

[chaterlea25]

Hi David,
 Welcome to the forum
You have dug up an old thread but its relavent to your problem
I dont bother with the lock washer, degreased threads and some "loctite" thread locking fluid works for me
The nut needs to be torqued up to 65 ft lbs so a clutch locking tool is needed
theres a pic of my home made locking tool here, two old plates bolted with spacers to a lenght of flat steel bar
http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=9646.msg70166;topicseen#msg70166

A worn clutch inner drum can cause binding or the roller bearing, or a wobbly chainwheel 
the inner drum needs to be very slightly proud of the shaft adaptor or at least flush

HTH
John

[David]

I originally replaced the drive nut with the SRM model, on my 1957 Road Rocket. I kept looking at it and eventually had a change of heart and went back to the original. I may be misguided but I felt a degree of comfort in having the split pin in place. I made a tool to tighten the nut to 65lbs torque. I have the Triumph clutch and have just purchased what I  hope is the correct tab washer that goes behind the clutch nut. The chain slide is a patten model that I bought some years ago when I originally started the rebuild. My question now is: Is it a false economy to run with the pattern slide plate or should I invest in one of the more expensive types with the built-in oil seal? I must say that I never given this subject a moments thought until reading these pages. David.

[ellis]

When fitting a complete SRM clutch assembly to my A10 do you still keep the sliding plate and felt washer. The instructions from SRM do not mention it at all.   

[chaterlea25]

Hi Dave and Ellis,
The SRM clutch will come with a second felt washer as their shaft adaptor does not have the scroll cut in it
the smaller felt fits between the adaptor and sliding plate, (which is still needed)
I have found that pattern sliding plates are a poor fit for the scroll/adaptor, even the original BSA ones were not a tight fit, adding a felt like SRM's might help
The sliding plates with seal and bush are probably the best available, but if the case is totally sealed some form of breather is needed
An alternative to the large felt ( that seem to act as a wick  )  is available
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-GOLD-STAR-B31-B33-A7-A10-PRIMARY-CHAIN-CASE-IMPROVED-SEAL-42-7504-/172253262309?hash=item281b1831e5:g:wj8AAOxyYANTYklW

There was a posting somewhere showing that some versions of the sliding plates can and will leak between the two parts

The pitfalls are many and varied 
John

[ellis]

Thanks' for the information chaterlea25. I have on order a Yamaha 125 dt crank case breather which will take care of the chain case pressure. I new there was an improvement for the sliding plate felt washer but could not remember where I had seen it. I have just ordered one so will be here in a few days so I can start to fit the new clutch.   

  ELLIS