'61 A10-4 spring clutch

[cus]

G'day All,
I'm new to this forum, I'm 3/4 thru restoring a '61 S/R & just getting to the fiddly bits.
I'm setting up all the cables etc. & having some trouble adjusting the clutch. Its a four
spring, I've replaced the basket with a new one, new steel & friction plates, springs & cable.
First off I screwed the spring tension nuts all the way down till thread on the stud was level
with nuts, but seem to be coil bound, so backed off springs so about one coil exposed, & had
movement but very stiff action. Are those nuts meant to be screwed all the way-down.
Have 6 steel & 5 friction plates, placed steel in basket first then alternated, finished up
with the plates being fairly close to the basket edge, (all that seemed O.K.), routed the
cable thru b/box plates, up mid tube, then along top tube. Any help would be appreciated.

regards, Cus

[chaterlea25]

Hi Cus,
I had a similar problem (long time ago now) and found out that I had been sold springs intended for an A65 3 spring clutch!!!!!!!!! they are heavier
At the time I think I put back the old springs,
you only need tighten up the spring adjusters until standing on the kickstart will not cause the clutch to slip, then maybe another 1/2 turn
Just my ?0.02 worth
John O R

[a10sausage]

you do not need to have the springs fully compressed as this can lead to a very heavy clutch...also is your clutch cable old...as if it is this can lead to very poor clutch action

[LJ.]

Hi there Cus! Welcome along mate. There is a very good post by Beezageeza somewhere on the forum try doing a search for it... It tells just how to set up the clutch properly, you'll also come across lots of other helpful snippets, alot of useful info also appears in other threads and topics too.

Cheers!

[cus]

Thanks everyone,
John, I think you are right about the springs, on closer inspection, the new springs are slightly heavier guage.
I was worried about the nuts unwinding if I backed the springs off, but sounds like they will be OK.
LJ, couldn't find that post by Beezageeza (good name).
Its great to have a forum on the A7 & A10's, thanks Trev for the tip, I'm sure to have many questions & hope
to lend some help as well,

regards, Cus

[RichardL]

Cus,

I think this might the post LJ is referring to: http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=302.msg1289#msg1289 .

If you use the search tab across the top you can search by user name and words. I, too, had trouble with the search, at first, because the user's name is actually "BeezageezaUK". I combined his name with the word "clutch."  LJ, let us know if this is the post to which you are referring.

Richard L.

[Beezageezauk]

It's pleasing to know that my post on setting up the BSA clutch was remembered on this forum.  However, as it was the 6 spring clutch the posting refered to I guess it would not help Cus with his question on the 4 spring clutch.

The 4 spring clutch is much simpler to set up providing the correct parts are used and should be much lighter to operate compared to the 6 spring unit.

Keep at it Cus and be patient.  Remember that a smooth operating clutch will give you much more pleasure when you are riding the bike.

Beezageezauk. 

[A10Boy]

If the brass nuts are set level with the threads on the bolts that will be a good starting point to adjust from. Its easier to adjust the clutch with the cover off, as you need to make sure the plate is lifting evenly so it doesn't bind. Just watch the pressure plate when you operate the lever and play with the spring tensions to make it lift evenly. and make sure you have a metal plate under the pressure plate.

Most cases of the clutch lever being overly heavy in use is due to poor condition or bad routing of the cable.

Note, there was a bad batch of clutch centres made a few years ago which cause the whole lot to lock up when the centre nut is tightened, although this doesn't seem to be your issue, but its worth checking the basket spins on the centre freely.

And most people these days use ATF in the chain case, it makes for a sweet clutch.