Author Topic: A10 Clutch drag  (Read 1575 times)

Offline John D

  • Active
  • *
  • Join Date: Apr 2013
  • Posts: 3
  • Karma: 0
A10 Clutch drag
« on: 08.08. 2014 21:38 »
]I replaced the clutch basket and friction plates and springs with new ones (the steel plates are flat and in good condition) on my 1961 A10 4 spring clutch because it got difficult to select neutral from first when the engine was running even with almost no slack in the cable. I had previously made sure the clutch was opening evenly. After fitting the new bits things are no different. The take up happens about one third of the handlebar lever travel out and feels normal but it is still often difficult to get neutral unless I am still moving forward and it sometimes won't go into first from neutral until I let the lever out a bit to get the shaft spinning.. I still have the cable slack set at the very minimum. I even used a dial gauge to check that the clutch was opening equally and got it within 5 thou. I have done about 300 miles hoping the clutch will get better as it beds in but no luck.
Anyone got any ideas.

Offline muskrat

  • Global Moderator
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • **
  • Join Date: Jul 2009
  • Posts: 11046
  • Karma: 132
  • Lithgow NSW Oz
    • Shoalhaven Classic Motorcycle Club Inc
Re: A10 Clutch drag
« Reply #1 on: 08.08. 2014 21:57 »
G'day John,  *welcome*.
1st back the springs off a turn or two. Other things to check is chain slack (not too tight, both primary & rear), groves in the clutch hub or basket, alignment of clutch to engine sprocket, alignment of g/box in relation to engine & frame (adjusting primary chain can sometimes cock it over one way a tad).
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline BSA_54A10

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: May 2008
  • Posts: 2544
  • Karma: 37
    • BSA National
Re: A10 Clutch drag
« Reply #2 on: 09.08. 2014 01:46 »
As Musky says, the clutch when set up acording to BSA will tow a steam locomotive and is way, way, way too tight.
The springs should be set up so they just star to slip then given a 1/4 to 1/2 turn more.
All you do with over tight clutch springs is to sprain your wrist, wear out the clutch pivots and break cables, all good things if you are making and selling parts.
When set up properly, even whith heavey duty springs you shaould be able to pull the clutch lever in with 3 if not 2 fingers.
Any more effort than that and the clutch is too tight.
Bike Beesa
Trevor

Offline John D

  • Active
  • *
  • Join Date: Apr 2013
  • Posts: 3
  • Karma: 0
Re: A10 Clutch drag
« Reply #3 on: 09.08. 2014 17:34 »
Thanks Guys
I backed off the adjustment screws one and a half turns and the clutch is transformed. Dragging gone and gear changes as sweet as can be. Just goes to prove that you are never too old to learn.
John D