Clutch not disengaging

[Angus]

Thanks John and Morris
Have just been out and cleaned inside adaptor and there is a tread. I tried my extractor for the 6 spring clutch and that did not fit and a quick look did not notice it, also there is room behind to get a puller on it so thought there was no need. I have not taken it off yet.
John where would you file to check for hardness, it was bought as part of a complete clutch kit from Lyford Classics so would have hoped it was OK.
Morris don’t have a lathe (dam thats a tail for another time) would it be worth me taking is some where to get it checked and fettled if needs be.

[duTch]

 

"...and I made it back to bed before the wife knew I was up all night messing around."

 you may be able to put tha to good use..?...

[Flatboy 1950]

If rollers screw in or out as you try to rotate one part .... it means that there is no clearance .

[Angus]

Thanks ‘Flatboy 1950’ I thought it was tight but I suppose it is still new.
An Update
Well took the clutch centre off.
Then reassembled outset drum onto centre off the bike. With it laying flat it rotated freely and the roller did not try to escape  . Thought I must have mucked up so put assembled unit onto gearbox main shaft and added inner drum rotated freely  . Got tab washer big washer and nut tightened is up (not very tight) and it all locked up solid  .
So it could be either of clutch centre, outer basket or inner basket as when they are clamped together they get tight.
My current thinking is Morris’s Shaft adaptor flange slightly distorted, 2nd choice is the again Morris’s inner drum rubbing. So will call a machine shop on Monday to see if they can sort it.
Unless anyone thinks otherwise

[muskrat]

The outer bearing (center of basket) may not be square in the basket. When spinning the basket on the adapter does the chain wheel run true?
Cheers

[chaterlea25]

Hi Angus,
Try a file on the outer edge of the inner flange where its not a bearing surface
Examine the adaptor for cracking outwards  at the keyway
Check the inner face of the clutch centre where it sits against the splines/roller bearing diamater for damage
the centre has only a very small clamping area to keep it from pinching the rollers/ outer drum

As you have found with this problem it gets worse everytime you dissassemble/reassemble 
ie the adaptor is spreading or the clamping face is distorting more 

HTH
John

[Angus]

Thanks Muskrat and John

I have reassembled the outer Basket onto the shaft adaptor/centre and spun it on a level surface and the outer basket/chain wheel runs true.
Check the adaptor for cracks and wear points None (forgot to file it), Check the inner drum for wear points where it sits against the roller, none.
Gave up decide it was get on the phone time and take it to someone to look at and or buy new basket (both bits) rollers and adaptor/centre  .

Enjoyed a nice ride on the A7 on a lovely day  .

On returning whilst putting stuff away I spotted a jar with rollers in, I appeared to have 35 old rollers checked size and on a vernier gauge they measured the same.
So I thought well one part to change and test, assembled off the bike outer onto centre appeared to be a bit more space after fitting all the rollers, spun freely. Put on inner basket and tapped home, spun freely. Pulled apart and put together on the bike spun OK not perfect but checked and does not stop in the same place every time and spins two/three revolutions before stopping. It does still appear to stop a bit abruptly but is not tight, so ‘Flatboy 1950’ may prove to be right it was all to tight.
So rightly or wrongly I am going to put it back to together and see how it works
Will report back when done.

[morris]

Hi Angus,
A great tool for checking whether the clutch runs true (and various other stuff can be checked with it also) is this;
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=base%20magnetic&PN=XMAS-GIFT-IDEAS---PRECISION-MEASURING-TOOLS.html#aMX1647IMP

[muskrat]

Yes every shed should have one. I use mine at least once a week.
Cheers

[Angus]

Ok Dial Gauge purchased and used to set up the clutch. Not easy as these things are so accurate that you only need to touch the bike for the needle to move.
Was not sure how even I need to get it but after about an hour of playing I figured the best I could get was about 0.14mm out (I hope thats OK, by eye I could not see any unevenness on lift). I was going to test it with the primary off but really could not be bothered to put on foot rest and exhaust for a quick test then take off again to put primary on. So all back together, hope it does not slip and even more I hope it does not lock up again.
Test planned for tomorrow.
 

[muskrat]

G'dat Angus.
0.14mm is good. The gauge should be firmly mounted to the bike frame/footpeg/caseing to give best reading.
Good luck mate, fingers crossed.
Cheers

[KiwiGF]

I find the best method is to measure movement of the plate as that removes any effect of a clutch not running true....eg the plate should move out 080 measured at 4 equidistant points

[Angus]

Update
It works  , I won’t say its fixed as it ran for 900 miles before without any apparent problem, but at least it back out there  .
I think the clutch may be slipping just a bit on changing 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th. This did seam to improve with use, so I will use it a see how it does and assuming no further problem put tightening springs on the winter fettling list.

[muskrat]

Great to hear Angus.
What do you think the problem was?
Cheers

[Angus]

Sorry Muskrat did not see your reply. She has done 100 miles now (i have two and try to ride the A7 more due to its history with me) and seams fine. I really don't no what the problem was or even if it is really fixed. the old set of rollers did seam to make it all looser so if it is fixed my guess is it was all to tight although that does not explain 900 trouble free miles before the problem appeared.
taking the if it is not broken don't fix it approach and enjoying riding the bikes, thats what they are for