Author Topic: Sticky Rod  (Read 2416 times)

Offline RichardL

  • Outside Chicago, IL
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 6489
  • Karma: 55
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #15 on: 19.02. 2014 21:52 »
This may be interesting in terms of 5/16" vs. 3/8" ARP bolts:

Online chaterlea25

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Jun 2009
  • Posts: 4156
  • Karma: 54
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #16 on: 19.02. 2014 23:39 »
Hi Richard
Thanks for the pic, I have saved ARP site on the PC

Regards
John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline Topdad

  • bob hebdon
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: May 2011
  • Posts: 2664
  • Karma: 36
  • l
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #17 on: 20.02. 2014 14:39 »
Richard bringing this down to a more basic level , those rods are something else , - no little end bush? Have to admit i'm green with envy and will definately invest in them when I rebuild my motor . Must say like Musky I did cringe at the clonk and would have very worried had it been with old rods !
John good to hear you're on the road to recovery ,at least you are listening to your body and so get yourself right steadily. Yes I to remember having to tow cars to get 'em going after a crank exchange ,a certain bedford dormobile wouldn't even move til I used my landie in four wheel to get it turning over once started no probs and the body rotted off it ( typical vauxhall/ bedford rust bucket )whilst the motor was still fine , best wishes BobH.
" rules are made for the guidance of wise men and the blind obediance of fools"
United Kingdom

Offline RichardL

  • Outside Chicago, IL
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 6489
  • Karma: 55
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #18 on: 20.02. 2014 16:12 »
Bob, et al,
 
MAP Cycle's new A10 rods are steel "H"-beam design, with bushing. SRM has billet rods without bushings. You may not recall this story, but I got those rods free after a machinist I used made my stock rods unusable by honing the housing without milling the landings.

Now, as for abuse by dropping, I admit I should have been more careful, but it seems I will need to get a Rockwell hardness test done on my pie-tin soft jaws and on the rods before I will live it down. Even then, I'll be in trouble for the dimple left by the hardness tester. (I will never admit to the shallow crescent-shaped scrape near the large end where one rod came in contact with the skirt after the last rebuild. No, you will have to beat that confession out of me. Thankfully, 3,700 miles later, it seems not to matter, but skirts will be relieved this time. Oh sh*'t, the backspace key seems to be broken.)

I feel I am going to have an obsessive compulsive episode and split my cases again to further investigate the sticky rod, as warmer weather did not help. This is not disregard to the good advice suggesting it is probabaly OK, but just because 3 or 4 hours lost now is much better than 75 hours and $$$ lost later. Here's my warning to you: "I'll keep you posted."

Richard L.


Offline RichardL

  • Outside Chicago, IL
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 6489
  • Karma: 55
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #19 on: 22.02. 2014 21:21 »
Gents,

As I thought, I was unable to fight the urge to split the cases and take another look at the sticky rod. I think the problem might be similar to what Groily described, though, not a "roughness" around the oil hole but more like an uplift. In one of the attached pictures you can see a streak through the coating down the center of each bearing half (in brand new shells). As I understand it, the shells are thicker 90 deg. from the parting line, which would explain why the streak does not go all the way around.   In the other photo, you see the line of light on the bearing appear to curve around the oil hole. I think this curving may be showing the uplift around the lip of the hole. 

Assuming my theory is right, I have two questions:

1. What's the best way to remove the uplift? I was thinking 800 wet paper wrapped around a jeweler's file followed by 1000. Is there a better approach? I am sort of nervous to go in there with a drill bit that is big enough to do the job.

2. Do the scuffs in the bearing coating matter when I reassemble? I can just barely feel them with a finger nail.

For those who said the engine would be fine if left alone, I think I agree.  The result would have been  the very slight grooving in the bearing which would not have affected overall performance.


Looking forward to your comments.

Richard L.

Offline Briz

  • A's Good Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Apr 2013
  • Posts: 209
  • Karma: 7
  • West Norfolk UK
    • Custom cycle developments
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #20 on: 22.02. 2014 22:45 »
If its a burr you can feel with your finger, a couple of careful passes with a dead-smooth file before the fine emery would be how I'd do it.
I dont think you'll have a problem using those shells.

Offline RichardL

  • Outside Chicago, IL
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 6489
  • Karma: 55
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #21 on: 23.02. 2014 00:02 »
Briz,

That seemed like the perfect advice. so I've gone ahead with it: jeweler's file, followed by 800 wet, followed by 1000 wet, followed by buffing with dremel. Looks like it got it, but the rod is not back on the crank yet. Keep you posted. Thanks.

Richard L.

Offline jachenbach

  • Resident Legend
  • *****
  • Join Date: Feb 2014
  • Posts: 564
  • Karma: 8
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #22 on: 23.02. 2014 13:33 »
Nothing at all wrong with the old beam type torque wrench. I've got beam, clicker and electronic ones. Clickers and electronics are supposed to be calibrated now and then. Beam types seem to last forever. I suspect they may even be more accurate as you can see clearly when you're approaching the desired torque and stop at it, whereas you can easily surpass it with a more expensive unit.

Offline RichardL

  • Outside Chicago, IL
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 6489
  • Karma: 55
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #23 on: 26.03. 2014 05:03 »
At the risk of becoming known as "Mr. Sticky", I thought I should share this video showing the "after" after dressing-down the oil holes in the journal, cleaning up the bearing housing and flipping the rod around on the journal. This video of course precedes the next episode in the "Sticky" series, "Sticky Crank". I thank all for sticking with me through these sticky issues and giving good advice, all around, rather than telling me to stick it.

http://youtu.be/G8jcmoPy6dA

Richard L.

Online muskrat

  • Global Moderator
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • **
  • Join Date: Jul 2009
  • Posts: 11065
  • Karma: 132
  • Lithgow NSW Oz
    • Shoalhaven Classic Motorcycle Club Inc
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #24 on: 26.03. 2014 06:23 »
Your a real stickler  *smile*.
Looks like you'd have the cleanest sludge trap around by the number of center pops around the plug.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline duTch

  • Ricketty Rocketty Golden Flashback
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 4528
  • Karma: 41
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #25 on: 26.03. 2014 09:24 »
 I guess that you haven't screwed the sludge plug in so far as to restrict the oil flow...?
 When I did mine, ol' mate said just screw it in so it's flush...?

 I'll also have a closer look at the how to play the banjo on the end, he/they make it look so easy...dangit!!!
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline RichardL

  • Outside Chicago, IL
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 6489
  • Karma: 55
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #26 on: 26.03. 2014 11:06 »
The dimples you can see are by P.O.s. I used loctite and really small dimples. Plugs are flush or very close. I know oil goes in because I pumped some in through the timing-side journal.

Scratching my head regarding "banjo", but I will be sure to laugh when I figure it out.

Richard L.

Offline duTch

  • Ricketty Rocketty Golden Flashback
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 4528
  • Karma: 41
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #27 on: 26.03. 2014 12:57 »

Quote
Scratching my head regarding "banjo", but I will be sure to laugh when I figure it out.

 At the end of the uTube, it goes on to demo how to play a Banjo....-least in my world it does...maybe some of Wozzas Deliverance medication blew my way. *conf* *smile*
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Online chaterlea25

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Jun 2009
  • Posts: 4156
  • Karma: 54
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #28 on: 26.03. 2014 21:56 »
Hi All
This is what comes up at the end of Richards clip here in Ireland ?????

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFgmrr6yu3E

John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline duTch

  • Ricketty Rocketty Golden Flashback
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 4528
  • Karma: 41
Re: Sticky Rod
« Reply #29 on: 27.03. 2014 09:01 »

 Ok you  win- for now, this time it had Earth, Wind and Fire, but somehow I ended up with http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=briyHuefm8Q&feature=youtu.be

 Nothin' like yours either John....!
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia